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04-10-2015, 06:02 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote-n-Tarry No.2
Also I need to know something, maybe one of you know...if a car say an F150 comes prewired with a 7 prong, do you need an ISOLATOR off the alternator?
So say you're parked and didn't unhook the trailer-to-car wiring. On the drive to destination it charged the trailer battery...but now as the trailer discharges will this drain the car's engine battery if you don't have an isolator IF the car came with the 7 prong set-up?
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My Nissan with factory wiring disconnects the charge line when the key is off. The only way I know that was that I measured the appropriated pins. There was nothing in any of the literature. Best way to be sure on the car in question would be to measure. Raz
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04-10-2015, 06:43 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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My truck came with a factory 7 pin receptacle . The charge line from the tow vehicle has power at all times. I wish the truck came with an isolation relay.
I unplug the trailer when we are camped to prevent the TV battery from accidental discharge.
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04-10-2015, 07:59 PM
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#23
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Member
Name: Totie Fan
Trailer: Tote N Tarry
West Coast
Posts: 81
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Verdict: Unplug or get isolator
Thanks for the tips.
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04-11-2015, 03:29 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tote-n-Tarry No.2
Thanks for the tips.
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The conclusion I would draw is that it varies by manufacturer. Infact it may vary by vehicle. Nissan used to leave the 12 volt outlets hot with key off. Mid 2012 they changed the design. Take a measurement first. Raz
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07-03-2015, 09:37 PM
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#25
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Member
Name: James
Trailer: triple e
Alberta
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by summer scamp
- The DC+ lines sticking out the back are numbered corresponding to a fuse location on the DC side of panel. Keep them in order! Attachment 70566
- fuse makes the circuit closed
- but what we missed was the power wire to power the converter hooked up in wrong location.
- the black, white and green wires that come prewired to the converter on one end need to be hooked up on the AC side of the panel. With the black power wire hooked to a breaker. Attachment 70567Attachment 70568
- 120v system was just like wiring a house... Will explain with pics if needed but the DC side of things was most confusing for us!
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I'm about to hook up mine but wouldn't mind a clearer picture of the AC side, if possible? I think I'm clear on the DC side of things but confused when you say that 'the power wire to the converter was hooked up in the wrong location". I've been searching for a decent pic of a hooked up PD but have yet to really see one. Thanks so much!
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07-04-2015, 08:18 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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RE: PD-4045/4065
You need to attach the black power wire for the Converter to it's own circuit breaker, that you install, not to the main power breaker, which is back-fed to power the AC distribution buss.
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07-04-2015, 04:03 PM
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#27
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Member
Name: James
Trailer: triple e
Alberta
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
RE: PD-4045/4065
You need to attach the black power wire for the Converter to it's own circuit breaker, that you install, not to the main power breaker, which is back-fed to power the AC distribution buss.
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Thanks Bob.. So I just give the converter it's own breaker and remove it from the lower "12V HOT" bussbar on the lower right. Do you mind if I ask you another couple questions as I'm not a pro with this kind of stuff?
If so... 1) What is that bus bar labelled "12V HOT" 4 pin bussbar on the lower right that the converter is currently installed into for???? Should I run 20 or 15 amp breaker boxes to the converter, and will a 20 or 15 amp box suffice for two electrical plug in sockets and one that's under the cabinet that services the fridge?
2) With this PD unit, Do I have to run another line back to the battery for charging it or does the DC line coming into the PD unit also charge the battery when applicable??
Thanks Bob, these might be dumb questions but I want to play it safe.
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07-04-2015, 06:30 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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I was told by PD that the extra bussbar was to meet CSA standards. I use it as the 120vac ground buss point.
The 12 VDC line from the battery to the PD-4045 will also charge the battery
I found a 10 amp breaker for the converter, but they are hard to find. 15a or 20a for the outlets is fine and a 30A main breaker is OK as long as you provide a 30 amp shore power cord and plug.
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07-04-2015, 07:33 PM
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#29
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Member
Name: James
Trailer: triple e
Alberta
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
I was told by PD that the extra bussbar was to meet CSA standards. I use it as the 120vac ground buss point.
The 12 VDC line from the battery to the PD-4045 will also charge the battery
I found a 10 amp breaker for the converter, but they are hard to find. 15a or 20a for the outlets is fine and a 30A main breaker is OK as long as you provide a 30 amp shore power cord and plug.
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Great! Thanks again Bob, much appreciated.
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07-05-2015, 07:00 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
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Hate to jump in in the middle of a discussion, but im confused, the picture i see has the 4 place bus bar (in the lower right corner)labelled as 120V hot, not 12V.
This would be the incoming hot from the power cable, not a junction point for grounds, unless all other hot leads are removed.
Left as wired from PD, this is where the incoming power cable hot lead would connect, then a jumperfrom there to the Main breaker, then feed out to house circuits from individual breakers. If you want the ability to turn your converter off, then remove the black 120V lead from this bus bar, and move it to the output of an individual breaker. Be carefull to use the provided neutral and ground busbars in the right order for 120v wiring, ground is for bare copper or green ground wires only, neutral is for white neutral wires only. Reversing these could cause a shock potential in some circumstances
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07-05-2015, 08:24 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Yes, the buss bar you mentioned is labeled 120 VAC, but, at least in the U.S., there is no requirement to use it for that purpose. As the incoming hot lead can be connected directly to the bottom side of the main breaker, leaving that buss bar free, it can be used for any other purpose one might have. Unless there was a recent change, on the seven PD-4045's I have installed, I didn't have a ground buss bar to work with, so the unused bar worked just fine.
As I mentioned, this is also what the manufacturer gave the okey-dokey to do with that buss bar as well, as long as CSA compliance wasn't required.
BTW: I can't imagine installing one of these units without a way to turn power to converter OFF, that may even be illegal by most codes, and is unacceptable by my own code....LOL
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