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10-03-2013, 11:10 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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I'm not entirely sure what you're asking, but where the battery connects, that does two things. 1. Runs the camper off the battery when shore power is off, and 2. Charges the battery when shore power is on. Yes, accessories will run off the fused side.
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10-03-2013, 08:53 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Name: Rob
Trailer: Starcraft18rb
British Columbia
Posts: 6
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Thanks Jared J. i do understand that element of the converter.
See, my confusion is that (aside from the sad excuse of an install guide that comes with this converter) I don't understand the theory or the wiring on the converter when it comes to the two batt connections on the board and what the difference is and what I need to do to wire it one way or the other (meaning with or without the battery shut off.) I would like to include the battery shut off in the wiring of the system, but I am not confident that I know how it needs to be wired (as mentioned by stevebaz).
So... Maybe I am better off putting the jumper back in, connecting the my battery lead to the main "batt+" on the converter and removing my battery shut off. Not my preference though.
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10-04-2013, 07:04 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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I though that the "jumper" issue had to do with requirements in certain countries that mandated a battery disconnect. As mentioned, I connect PD-4045's as shipped, and have put disconnect switches in without issues.
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10-04-2013, 09:35 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,889
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You have to decide what you want your battery disconnect to do.
Do you want it to just disconnect the battery to the circuit or do you want to kill the whole battery and negative buss.
As wired from the factory with the jumper you connect the battery to the black + post with the jumper in place with the proper size wire and with circuit protection from the battery. When the battery is used to power the system the power flows through the 12 volt system through the jumper to the 12 volt buss. Plug in the 120 volt converter and 12 volt DC is pushed into the Battery to charge it and through the jumper power is fed to the 12 volt buss. Some people put in a disconnect switch between the battery and the Black + post on the converter board. this isolates the battery but will not kill the 12 volt buss if plugged in to 120 volt AC. power will still flow through the circuit through the jumper keeping it live.
I do not know if this should be done you should check with the manufacturer about running this converter without the battery connected but still running 12 volt circuits through the converter. In the old days this was a NO NO.
The manufacturer uses this jumper to isolate the 12 volt buss. if you take out the jumper the converter is isolated from 12 volt output to the 12 volt buss. Using the proper wire size and wiring protection from the battery with a proper disconnect you can bring the charge line from the converter to the disconnect, the disconnect to the battery and the disconnect to the post on the 12 volt buss. To isolate all 3 circuits takes a special disconnect not a single pole switch. Or 2 disconnects one between the converter and battery ( Charge Line) one from the Battery to the 12 volt buss ( supply line to 12 volt buss)
As above this should be checked out with the manufacturer to make sure your not hurting anything when you open and close these switches. Placement of these disconnect switches must not interfere with other systems on your trailer such as warning alarms and emergency disconnect braking systems. Consult a professional in your system so you can be assured of a proper installation. I am not a professional and do not profess to be.
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10-04-2013, 07:26 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Name: Rob
Trailer: Starcraft18rb
British Columbia
Posts: 6
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Thanks Steve. The detail you provided is very valuable. I see now why the set up I have currently, will not work.
I think I will go the default route and reinstall the jumper and not worry about a battery shut off. If I really want to isolate the battery, for what ever reason, I can always throw the breakers, disconnect the shore power and\or pull the connectors off the battery. Thanks for all your help guys! Still welcome other thoughts in the meantime.
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10-15-2013, 01:10 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Name: Rob
Trailer: Starcraft18rb
British Columbia
Posts: 6
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Well I final had a chance to finish the instal and it appears all is well. I reinstalled the jumper (left my battery positive wire on the terminal in the picture as it has gotten colder and the wire is less that cooperative). All the appliances, outlets and furnace are working properly. I checked the voltage at the battery and was reading around 13.49 v so the charging system is active. I will monitor it for a while to ensure the charge changes to trickle and there is no smoke coming out of the TT
Thanks again for all the comments and suggestions.
Cheers.
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06-02-2021, 08:43 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Name: Glen Alan
Trailer: Beachcomber TM15 - 1979
British Columbia
Posts: 1
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This group is amazing .. really :-)
Any chance the 4045 has a modern equivalent? I'm on the PD website and am lost in all the drop-down menus LOL
We currently have a working PD6911, but all the gear has just been removed for our new floor: marine-grade plywood, resin/poly cloth burrito-wrap!! We are planning out how to approach a systemic Li-Ion / inverter / converter / solar / etc arrangement in the fall.
My wife (BAdams) and I are loving this learning curve - any thoughts on best gear to bundle together to avoid compatibility issues?
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06-03-2021, 06:10 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachcomber BIGS
...
We currently have a working PD6911, but all the gear has just been removed for our new floor...We are planning out how to approach a systemic Li-Ion / inverter / converter / solar / etc arrangement in the fall.
... any thoughts on best gear to bundle together to avoid compatibility issues?
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I would give Best Converter a call, outline your plans and ask them what products they recommend...
https://www.bestconverter.com/Contact-Us_ep_5.html
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06-03-2021, 08:44 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachcomber BIGS
This group is amazing .. really :-)
Any chance the 4045 has a modern equivalent? I'm on the PD website and am lost in all the drop-down menus LOL
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There is the PD4045KA which can switch between lithium and led acid.
https://www.progressivedyn.com/rv/po...specifications
Quote:
NEW!! Models PD4045KA , PD4060K (OEM) and PD4045KV , PD4060KV (Retail) Has a switch to select Lithium or Lead Acid Mode.
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06-04-2021, 03:09 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachcomber BIGS
This group is amazing .. really :-)
Any chance the 4045 has a modern equivalent? I'm on the PD website and am lost in all the drop-down menus LOL
We currently have a working PD6911, but all the gear has just been removed for our new floor: marine-grade plywood, resin/poly cloth burrito-wrap!! We are planning out how to approach a systemic Li-Ion / inverter / converter / solar / etc arrangement in the fall.
My wife (BAdams) and I are loving this learning curve - any thoughts on best gear to bundle together to avoid compatibility issues?
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Progressive Dynamics also provides a Lifepo4 conversion module that fits the PD 4045. There is not a switch, so the charger becomes a Lithium one, and will require the original charger module be re-installed to provide charging for lead acid batteries.
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