Questions about my converter

[Baxter]

So as I'm cleaning, scrubbing and just generally getting to know my new-to-me Eco (Boler clone). I find the attached.

Now, I'm new to this world and have a fairly limited sense of RV wiring, but if I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing, that's the remnants of an old transformer-based converter, which has been gutted and bypassed. Does that seem right?

If so, that means any battery charging is up to me to do manually, right?

And at some point I'll probably want to put in a new converter/charger type thing, right? When I do, what do I want? Something like the PD 4045? or the 4135 (I can't figure out the difference) or something else?

And this thing is mounted under the sink... is that OK? It seems, um, less than ideal. Should there be some plastic shielding or something to keep stray water off?

So far, I've plugged it in and confirmed the AC started up. I haven't tested 12V systems yet. i'm a little wary until I get a better sense of what I'm dealing with.

[Lechski]

Similarly, I am trying to figure out the difference between the two as I need to install a power centre as well. Only difference is that I am starting from scratch as my Trillium never had a power centre to begin with. I may call the sales line at Progressive Dynamics tomorrow to see if they can be any help.

I'll be watching this forum with great interest.

[tractors1]

Have you used the label information to do an online search and see what it was?

[thrifty bill]

That sure looks like the outer box the PD has 6911 slid into. I just replaced mine with a PD4135 and put a battery on the tongue of the trailer.

[Baxter]

Charlie I’m not sure I care what it was since is pretty clearly gutted.

Bill, what made you go for the 4135?

[thrifty bill]

Originally Posted by Baxter

Charlie I’m not sure I care what it was since is pretty clearly gutted.

Bill, what made you go for the 4135?

The reviews on the WFCO versus reviews on the 4135. I read several that were replacing the WFCO with the 4135.

Price difference for me was about $15.


I saw several comments like this:
"I hope the 8735 is more reliable than the 8725 that I had. It failed twice before I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics PD4045."

I talked to Randy at Best Converter and he did all he could to convince me to not buy a WFCO from him, claimed he had several fail on him. Well, his PD4135 price was higher than others, so I took his advice but bought my PD elsewhere.

In the end, with a really small price difference, I just went with the PD unit. The PD is also made in USA. WFCO is made in China.

[Baxter]

Ok, bout why the 4135 over the 4045? Still trying to understand the difference

[thrifty bill]

Easy! I did not need a 45 AMP unit. The 4135 is a 30AMP unit, original PD6911 in my Trillium was 15AMP. So I was already doubling the amperage. And meanwhile, I cut my lighting load by about 90% by going all LED. Lower load with double the capacity. That was enough.

And the 4045 costs a lot more.

I went from one 120V circuit and one 12V DC circuit to up to 5 - 120V circuits and 6 - 12V DC circuits. Thought that was plenty. 4045 maxes out at 7 and 12 respectively.

Right now, I am using 2 -12V circuits, and 3 - 120 V circuits (one is the main breaker, one is for the converter, and one is for my 120V outlets)....... So the PD4135 is not exactly being taxed.

What are you going to do on a small trailer with 45Amp AC? And then you have the power cord to your trailer. Are you planning to go 50AMP cord? That would be quite unusual on a molded FG trailer.


The PD4045 is also larger. Almost twice as deep, it would not fit in my location.


Why are you considering the 4045?

[Baxter]

Thanks, that’s what I needed to hear. I saw the 4045 recommended somewhere and couldn’t sort out the difference aside from more amps. You’ve given me some great info. Thanks!

Now, about having this thing under the sink: is that ok?

[thrifty bill]

If it bothers you, put it somewhere else. Of course, you will need to rewire a lot of stuff and patch a big hole. Rather than patch a hole, I'd make a smaller cabinet door and put it over the hole.

My new one went in the same place as the old one, under the sink.

[John in Michigan]

To check all the differences between the PD 4135 and 4045, check the Progressive Dynamics website. The PD 4135 is a much more compact unit. Its only 11.25"W x 8"H x 3.8"D vs the PD4045 which is 12.28W x 8.875H x 7.25D. Also the PD4135 is about half the weight.

The smaller PD4135 makes more sense for a tiny 13 foot trailer.

[Joe MacDonald]

Remember one thing here guys, the amp rating of the converter is its DC output, in no case will these draw more than 10 amps on the AC side, probably below 5 amps.
You would not have to change your cord
Joe

[thrifty bill]

You are not correct. These are power centers, not just converters. The input on the PD4135 is 30 amps 120v AC, so a 15 amp cord is a bad idea.


Although the title of this thread says converter, I believe the OP misspoke as the picture looks just like a 6911 power center, which has both a 120v AC section and a converter feeding a 12v DC section.

And certainly the 4135 is a power center. 120v AC input to a 30amp breaker, then two more thick breakers, one feeding the converter and the other feeding 120v in the camper. You can go with thin breakers instead and install 6 total 120v breakers, one functioning as a 30 amp main.

[John in Michigan]

To add to what bill said, these Progressive Dynamics power centers will require adding a 30 amp power inlet on the side of the camper and obtaining a 30 amp power cord to plug into 30 amp campsite outlet.

I upgraded my Boler 17 from the original 15 amp power center to 30 amp shore power last year by installing the PD4135 and a 30 amp power inlet. I haven't gotten around to buying the 30 amp cord. Just use a 30 amp to 15 amp adapter with 15 amp power cord and plug into 15 amp shore power while I am renovating the camper.

[Baxter]

I'm sure I misspoke, since RV wiring is still pretty new to me. So I get it right next time, what exactly is the difference between a converter and a full on power center?

My inlet was already upgraded to 30 amp, so that part is covered.

[thrifty bill]

Power center includes room for 120V breakers, whereas a converter is just a device that takes 120V as an input, and puts out 12V DC, hence the "converting". Devices that take 12V DC as an input and put out 120V AC as an output are called "inverters". So converters go one direction (AC to DC) while inverters do the opposite. Both are stand alone devices.

About half the stuff inside the 4135 is the converter, the other half is 120V AC and 12V DC connections.

[Jon Vermilye]

One of the things to watch for when purchasing a converter/power center is what you are getting. Most of them are called converters, whether they have breakers & fuses (a power center) or not. Be sure to check the actual description of the model you purchase.

[Carl V]

The 4135 doesn't come with any breakers, you have to buy them separately at you local hardware store. Yes it is rated at 30A AC input but if 15A is enough for you and you wish to keep your original 15A power cord, just put in a 15A breaker as your main breaker.

[John in Santa Cruz]

30A at 12V is 360 watts, which is only 3 amps at 120V. the 30A 120V is for running AC powered air conditioners, etc, the converter section itslef will never draw that much..

[John in Michigan]

Right, the DC side only uses at most 10% of the total power (35 amps at 12vdc). When we are on shorepower however, we would definitely take advantage of the 30 amps at 115vac for running the microwave, coffee maker, DW's blow dryer, etc. Just need to make sure to run multiple outlets on separate branch circuits, and then NOT plug everything into the branch circuit...