Rear brake light 'socket' replacement - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-22-2017, 08:29 PM   #1
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Name: Jenny
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16 with front bath
Tennessee
Posts: 39
Rear brake light 'socket' replacement

Hello everyone!

I've searched this thread using the word 'socket' but I'm not even sure that's what it's called, so I've attached some photos.

The passenger side brake light and turn light has stopped working. All other lights work: side lights and driver's side brake, tail and turn lights. The passenger light used to work, no problem.

I replaced the bulb but it still doesn't work. Looking at the photo the bulb socket looks corroded and broken loose. the video shows the play in the wire. The driver side doesn't look this rusted and corroded.

So my question is: how do I replace just this socket? I removed the entire rear passenger side light and all I see are wires going into the trailer and a wire riveted to the back of the brake/turn light (second photo, the blurry one). Do I have to cut through the wire and just splice it to a new socket? Before I tear through the rat fur on the inside, is there a handy connector between the internal wiring and the socket? I almost bought a new tail light replacement from Scamp but again, there doesn't seem to be a way to just plug in a replacement fixture without cutting wires.

I hope this makes sense to someone. And that someone knows the answer to my question! Thanks in advance!

Jenny
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Old 06-22-2017, 08:51 PM   #2
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Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
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It's not broken loose. It's spring-loaded to make contact with the bulb. Just clean up the rust. Get a can of electrical contact cleaner too and spray it on the socket.
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:42 PM   #3
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Name: Charlie Y
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Although I don't have a Scamp, I would begin with removing all the screws holding the assembly onto the trailer first. Probably easier to figure out the fix and you may find out how much wire lengths you have to play with. If you're really lucky you may find you can fish out the cable.

Another approach is to order a whole new assembly and work it from there. You will most likely need to cut and splice wires; the length of the wires pre-attached to the new assembly would indicate how far the splice is inside the Scamp.
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:02 PM   #4
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Name: Jenny
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16 with front bath
Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
It's not broken loose. It's spring-loaded to make contact with the bulb. Just clean up the rust. Get a can of electrical contact cleaner too and spray it on the socket.
My video didn't post and it's hard to describe but when I say loose I don't mean the spring-loaded platform. I mean that one of the two small, round metal contact discs within the spring-loaded platform is no longer attached to the platform. I'm not really sure if that even matters. All I can say is that on the driver's side, both round contacts are attached to the platform. Of course, that side isn't nearly as corroded as the passenger side.

I will try some electrical contact cleaner. I didn't know this stuff existed and it seems the simplest thing to try at this point. I assume I can buy it at a hardware or automotive supply store?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-22-2017, 10:07 PM   #5
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Name: Jenny
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16 with front bath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
You will most likely need to cut and splice wires; the length of the wires pre-attached to the new assembly would indicate how far the splice is inside the Scamp.
There is very little play to the wires coming out if the Scamp to the light assembly. The replacement part from Scamp just has bare wires, like on a ceiling light fixture. I was hoping to not have to cut and splice. I'll try Glenn's cleaner solution first and may be that will fix it.
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:07 AM   #6
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If you need to cut wires, be sure the Scamp side wires don't fall into a hole in the camper. Tape, clothes pins, binder clips all work to hold onto them. If the wires disappear into the camper you may never see them again!
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:39 AM   #7
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Florida
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The round metal thing you said you are missing off the end of the one wire is simply called a contact. But It's showing in your pic that it is still there.

But, if you really need one ....

Go to an auto parts store and tell them you need a pigtail for an 1157 bulb socket. Or ask if they have an 1157 bulb socket with pigtail.

Clean / Splice / Replace parts as needed.
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:54 AM   #8
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Some tow vehicles have relays that operated the trailer lights. You might want to look at the tow vehicle fuse block and see if that's the case.

I had that happen to me one side brake and turn signal lights quit working, it turned out to be the right side relay in tow.

Good luck.
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:58 AM   #9
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Name: bob
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You can get a small wire brush made for cleaning bulb sockets, at an auto parts store. When I worked on freight trailers I had an assortment of bulb socket parts on hand, contact pigtails, springs, etc. Bring it on over and I'll fix it for you.
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Old 06-23-2017, 10:20 AM   #10
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Name: Jim
Trailer: Scamp 13 Layout B
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Maybe time to start thinking about going with LEDs? I have problems with original running lights on my Scamp somehow burning out diodes in my Ford Escape tow vehicle which is as of now without brake lights!
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:40 AM   #11
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Name: Jason
Trailer: Egg Camper
Tennessee
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What part of TN are you? Only ask because I'm in Nashville and could help.

That socket is pretty badly rusted. The contact pin pushing out of the fiber disc is normal - as long as the wire is not broken off, don't worry.

It looks like the bulb socket and its bracket just unscrew. Of course to fully remove would mean cutting wires, but that's easy to fix. I would take pictures like you have and the lens into a Napa or Carquest parts store and see if they can get just the bulb holder. Some Napas are better than others at having a selection of trailer lights.

If not then ebay or trailer light outlet would be a good option for parts. Also as someone already mentioned, this may be a good time to check out LED options. They tend to be brighter, last longer, less trouble once properly installed. How easy they are to install depends on what you get.

Jason
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:42 PM   #12
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Name: Charles
Trailer: Scamp 16
Ohio
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Are you sure that you even want to fix it?

https://www.amazon.com/Lumitronics-S...il+light&psc=1

Also available at most RV dealers. It is a very popular style tail light
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Old 06-23-2017, 01:23 PM   #13
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
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I just replaced my 1986 Scamp tail lights with new LED lights. I also put in led back-up lights. Im done with old corroded lights and the never ending fiddling with lights before a trip and again before returning home.
From E-Trailer.

Product Detail Qty Total
STL90RB Transit Tail Light - Stop/Turn/Tail - LED - Submersible - 31 Diodes - Red Lens - STL90RB
Remove

2

Update $70.06
LPL31CB LED Mini Trailer License Plate Light, 2 Diode - Chrome Plated - LPL31CB
Remove

1

Update $8.88
Total: $78.94

From ebay.
18W CREE LED Driving Fog Spot Light Roof Off-Road 4X4 ATV UTV SUV Truck 2 PCS | eBay

This updated the back of my trailer with all led lights that are far brighter and sealed. This also gave me proper back-up lights that will actually help when parking the trailer at night. Wiring them into Scamps wiring was a little confusing. I had to add the light for over the Licence plate because the new lights didn't have provision for lighting up the plate. I think it turned out great. I went camping last week and for the first time I didn't have to worry about the trailer lights. Maybe side marker lights soon to be upgraded.
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:47 PM   #14
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Different tail lights as this is for an older Scamp.
I added Harbor Freight LED to the original round lamps and they are brighter with no sockets to corrode and have bad connections.
This is the one like I used

The limps just fit in the old lens and I held them in place with the hated silicone sealant.
You have to cut off the plastic on the back and solder new wires on.

This is what the back looks like before the plastic part is cut off

I also installed new LED position lights so that the usual problem with corroded sockets and non working lamps is gone.
On the lamp over the license plate I put a set of strip LEDs inside the clear part and wired them in with the tail light circuit.
The red LEDs in the red lens was still much brighter than the original lamps.
I used the original metal backing plates and sealed with silicone sealant to feel like I kept the water out
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