Romex in RV

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

To add insult to injury, some trailer manufacturers are now installing self contained device 120v outlets that use a special tool https://www.magicmobilehomesupply.co...ool_p/2187.htm

I have repaired / replaced SCD’s in friends fairly new trailers
The kitchen SCD in my 2018 SOB trailer is starting to fail ( over heating / poor connection )
The reason they are used is because they speed up production and cut costs
If I had the power to change the code they would be illegal but the corporations and manufacturers have more money and influence .
After working 40 years of working as an electrician you get a real sense of what works well over the long haul . The SCD’s don’t meet that criteria

[Joe MacDonald]

I use NMW cable for all repairs to my trailer.
W denotes wet location rated cable,
I have never seen any rv or trailer with the 120 volt side wired with stranded conductors.
I also have never had a connection or conductor fail in either of my Trilliums on the 120v side.
Joe

[Sebas]

I know the stranded wire is better for 12v. My RV is wired with all of it. But for 120v, my RV is wired with solid (Romex) cable. If i haved to change Romex for stranded wire, witch kind of breaker i have to use for a marine Wire? Is the standar breaker work with marine wire too? PD say to use Romex [solid] wire...

[Joe MacDonald]

I would not switch, you would then have to either solder or crimp a lug on each end to make a connection at the breaker panel if it isn’t equipped with breakers with compression lugs, and most plugs are not designed for stranded wire
Absolutely fine to use stranded with 12 volt side.
My trailer is an 81, has original Rome’s (solid) and I have never had a bad or broken wire

[thrifty bill]

Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald

I would not switch, you would then have to either solder or crimp a lug on each end to make a connection at the breaker panel if it isn’t equipped with breakers with compression lugs, and most plugs are not designed for stranded wire
Absolutely fine to use stranded with 12 volt side.
My trailer is an 81, has original Rome’s (solid) and I have never had a bad or broken wire

FWIW my 1977 Trillium has stranded wire on the 120V side that sure looks original.

[Joe MacDonald]

Interesting, my 76 had Romex for the 110, and stranded for the 12 volt, and no battery compartment or converter. Just an on/off fused switch under the counter. I put the battery and a 12v car charger under the front bench on the road side

[Carl V]

This was from my 81 Trillium, installed right under the rear window, which was leaking like crazy.

[CarlD]

Lovely, I don't mind IDCs for control wiring and other low current connections but would never design anything utilizing them for power!

[Joe MacDonald]

Similar to what’s in mine, though it looks like about 10 years newer vintage, mine has a metal frame on it that holds it in place. I will be replacing all my original receptacles with this type this year as last year I noticed my plugs seemed loose in the socket. If the original lasted 38 years! Another 38 means it won’t be me looking after it
Joe

[DaveMinBako]

Always a good idea to restrain both wiring and tubing, near any connection points, to minimize movement caused by vibration. You can use ty-raps, cable clamps, even tape; just try to reduce vibration of the wire or tube against it's connection point.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

The NEC lists approved wiring methods for travel trailers in NEC 551-47 A
NEC 551-47A says the wiring method listed in Art #334 is an approved wiring method for travel trailers . Art #334 covers NM cable ( Romex)

My Scamp , Casita and Escape all were wired with NM cable from the factory
Type NM cable is an acceptable , code approved , cost effective wiring method
The idea that it is unsafe or a poor choice is BS
Romex has a plastic jacket that is flame resistant

I absolutely agree with Steve. NM cable (Romex is a brand) is approved, acceptable, and safe, per the National Electric Code.

[Sebas]

Thanks. Solid wire is Ok but stranded is better. If I choose to change, y have to find breaker that accept stranded wire.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Sebas

Thanks. Solid wire is Ok but stranded is better. If I choose to change, y have to find breaker that accept stranded wire.

Just go to a marine supply store, they will set you up. So can an RV supply store.

[ShalomOrchard]

I got a bunch of 4 awg cables that are labeled SAE 11127 type SGT surplus.

When I google this it appears to be stranded tinned copper marine grade wire; nice stuff! I’m going to use it to wire up my batteries.

Or am I reading this wrong?

[CharlesinGA]

Romex™ is the registered trademark of the Southwire Corp of Carrollton GA, The electrical code (NEC) uses the term NM (meaning non-metallic sheathing). Its used by every RV manufacturer for the 120v AC circuits and the problems as noted above somewhere are usually with terminations.

For space heaters you should install a dedicated outlet using a commercial/industrial grade receptacle in a regular box, fed directly from the power panel. If you need to come from one of the other branch circuits, run it to this receptacle first then on to the rest of the original receptacles. Generally there is not much load on outlets in RV's save for the occasional blow dryer. Crock pots and such use little current, even most electric coffee pots are fairly low draw. Space heaters are the killer.

As the owner of a house that that goes thru an magnitude 7 earthquake every time it goes down the road, you should be inspecting all accessible parts of the electrical system every year or two (depending on use) for loose terminals, chafing, arcing, or other issues.

You will find bundles of wiring usually laying on the floor behind or inside of cabinets, and if like mine, you will find dropped screws that have vibrated into those wire harnesses, and all kinds of other junk. Spend a couple of days opening up stuff and using the shop vac to clean up, use a damp cloth to wipe out the dust, lift and shake harnesses looking for FOD, and check all terminals in your power panel for tightness. If you have a transfer switch, open and check that, a permanently installed EMS such as the Progressive HW30C, open and check that (caution, easily lost tiny #0 phillips screws holding the cover on) and everything else you can imagine. Find the DC ground bar on the back of the power panel or the floor behind it, if it looks like mine did, fix it (see pics). I did all of those wire ends with crimp on ferrules, no loose strands.

I had a hardwired shore cord that was a b__ch to cram back in the shore cord compartment and the generator outlet was in there also. This was supplied by 10 gauge solid NM, which is a bear to work with. I removed the hardwired shore cord and its plastic storage compartment and door and frame and put a 1/8th thick aluminum plate where the access door was, installed a Twist-lock™ Marinco power inlet and a automatic transfer switch for the generator and replaced the 10 gauge solid NM with blue smurf conduit and 10 gauge stranded THHN wire. Still gotta check connections though.

Charles

[MyronL]

I used Romex when I needed to run a line from my inverter to a new duplex under the fridge. After some 5-6 years of towing on some pretty rough roads, zero problems.