Running Casita 17 a/c on generator and/or household outlet - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 03-14-2015, 12:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Starting current for inductive loads is usually 5 to 7 times the running current.

For those that aren't electrical engineers or have misplaced their copy of the NEC standards, is it OK to just say that A/C's will momentarily draw a lot more power when restarting during use, than the nominal run current???? LOLOLOL

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Old 03-14-2015, 01:05 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Back to the 30 amp to 20 amp adapters. I was using one the last couple years in a campground for the winter. It's the one that looks like a small hockey puck. It would get warm if I had enough load on it, like a dorm fridge, electric heater, TV, 60 watt light bulb. A self described "professional electrician" in the campground said that those types were more prone to heat up than the type that has a short cord between the plugs. The one I was using plugged into the 30 amp outlet in the campground pedestal and then a regular extension cord would plug into it, so the reverse of what Iggy would need. What do you think Steve, does this make sense?
NO . Hypothericalli if both devces meet UL and NEMA standards for contact resistance
& contact tension, the temperature rise above ambient should be approximately the same, Since the puck style has 2 connecns in a limited space I believe the puck would run warmer but still within standards ,
The problem usually stems from whether the device has a single or double wipe contact,
This same problem [heating] occurs in homes when heavy loads are connected to residential grade receptaces . Low cost receptacles are single wipe where as commercial grade or hospital grade receptacles have heavier double wipe contacts . That is why one receptacle cost 39 Cents and one costs $4 . Overheating leads to loss of contact tension of the contact surfaces and starts a downward spiral untl the device is destroyed, I apologize fot the long winded explanation. Maybe when we meet again and you have a day to kill ,I can explain it in full detail but you probably have more interesting things to do!!

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Old 03-14-2015, 01:33 PM   #17
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Thanks Steve, makes sense to me, or at least I think I get it. Expected to see you this past winter. Would have been interesting since we now both have similar campers and tow vehicles. A couple years ago (think we discussed this) I did burn out the 30 amp receptacle on the campground pedestal. I blame it on me overloading it, and that the receptacle was old, and worn resulting in a loose connection.
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Old 03-14-2015, 02:25 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post

For those that aren't electrical engineers or have misplaced their copy of the NEC standards, is it OK to just say that A/C's will momentarily draw a lot more power when restarting during use, than the nominal run current???? LOLOLOL
Yes you are correct !!! . I taught AC / DC theory in our union's apprentice program and at the local technical college for 35 years so I have developed some bad habits,
As a union electrician you are expected not only to know how things work but the why.
I was a code instructor certified to teach classes required to renew your electrical license in the State of Minnesota. I forget sometimes on this forum I am not teaching people that are electrician . You have my apology.
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Old 03-15-2015, 02:59 PM   #19
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We bought a Harbor Freight 2500 watt inverter generator for $499 mostly to compare with one of our Honda 2000 generators at work
We keep these along with the 3000 inverter Hondas for power outages to keep the coffee post and control systems alive during power off parts.
We tested the unit with full load, ran it for 8 hours and more. It sounds different,but not measurably louder than the Honda on out dB meter.
One of the guys took it with him on a barbque contest where it ran the roof top A/C and lights etc with no problem.
The Hondas are nice, but the HF unit is cheap and seems to work pretty good.
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Old 04-06-2015, 09:16 PM   #20
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I'd recommend the Honda 2000 Companion generator plus adding the LHC hard start capacitor kit. One outlet on the Companion version has a 26a rating and comes with an adaptor so you can plug your 30a power cord into it. The Companion would overload occasionally when running my Casita AC on it until I added the capacitor.


2012 Casita Liberty 17 Deluxe
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Old 04-24-2015, 04:54 AM   #21
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Follow up on a/c question

Thanks for all the info, sometimes WAAAY too much (and you know who you are!) Just kidding, my point is that I am far from handy and the technical side of the electrical system is beyond my my grasp. So, with that being said, do I understand correctly that if I buy the appropriate 30 amp adapter (which I am assuming is just a plug adapter because I am not familiar with camping electrical systems, not even what the plug looks like) that I can run the a/c unit from a household outlet without damaging the a/c unit? Thanks in advance for your patience and information.
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Old 04-24-2015, 05:43 AM   #22
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Just an FYI,
Most modern AC's now come with a hard start kit. Maybe someone can give you an approximate date.
On my 1999 7,150 BTU Dometic Brisk Air it was optional. I installed the Dometic hard start kit for my AC and it helped tremendously. My Honda 2000i has no problems starting it but a Generac iX2200 I had did.
The runing wattage of my AC that is ambient temperature dependent is approximately 600 watts at 90 degrees outside temperature. My Honda runs my AC with the ECHO switch on.

My molded "hockey puck" gets warmer than I'm comfortable with. It does not say where it's made but does have double wipe contacts on the female 30 amp end but is marked 15 amps.
Here's a picture of a "hocky puck" mentioned.
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:44 PM   #23
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Sorry for the delay. In out of theUS and just now have Wifi. Joe's reply just about covers it. I will add that I have to have my Honda 2000i ECO turned off as that lag time of the generator powering up under load seems to put undue strain on the AC as well as the generator. That said i get 4 hours with o e tank of fuel and 28 to 30 hours with an auxiliary 6 gal tank.

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