Running electric through Solar controller. - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-23-2017, 11:09 PM   #29
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Yeah, with a soft start it'll definitely be OK, and with the Easy Start it'd be no problem.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:36 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Markz View Post
Looks like the load terminals of this unit, HY-MPPT30, equal the charge terminals at 30amps each.
This brings up an interesting question. I just bought a similar solar controller that has a load connection also rated at the same value of the controllers rating (30 amps in your case). This controller has settings for the battery voltage at which the controller will disconnect the load on its load terminals, and another setting where it will reconnect the load after the battery has sufficiently charged and recovered to the set voltage. Along with the float voltage, these are all user adjustable.

So, in theory at least, using only the load terminals on the controller would effectively function to protect the battery from being overly discharged (and damaged). No such protection exists if loads are taking power directly from the battery (unless other arrangements are made). And since the controller (and controller load) ratings are 30 amps, and your trailer is wired for 30 amp service, it should be possible to use the controller’s load terminals to power the camper just as a converter would.

I do see a possible problem depending on what voltage settings are used. The controller only senses voltage and if the voltage dropped below the disconnect voltage, even for second, the trailer would lose all 12 volt power. Normal voltage drop (when fans kick on, etc.) might do that. Then when the load is disconnected the voltage would almost instantly come back up, the load reconnects, the voltage drops again, and it's a vicious cycle. Using the voltage of the battery under load is just not a good method for knowing the state of charge of the battery.

All this theory is moot however when the solar controller is a positive ground system and the camper is negative. In that case the loads must be isolated from the negative ground loads on the camper. So I still plan to just ignore the controller’s load terminals. Using a shunt and current monitor would be my preferred way to monitor the battery’ state of charge.
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Old 07-24-2017, 08:38 PM   #31
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To your point:
"All this theory is moot however when the solar controller is a positive ground system and the camper is negative. In that case the loads must be isolated from the negative ground loads on the camper. So I still plan to just ignore the controller’s load terminals. Using a shunt and current monitor would be my preferred way to monitor the battery’ state of charge."

We have been discussing isolating the 12vdc system and not grounding it anywhere on the camper. After going through the instructions and learning about positive ground systems I thing this is a necessity beyond corrosion issues. The 12vdc system has a battery now; it doesn't need to be grounded. It didn't before either.

I also believe the controller has reverse polarity protection. If you were sure your 12v system is isolated from the frame would you use the load terminals?

I do think using a shunt and monitor is a safe bet, but it also negates many of the functions on the controller such as high and low battery cut offs, timers, and load monitoring at the controller or at the remote monitor. I am trying to keep that functionality if possible. As I rewired the entire camper I am pretty confident I can now isolate the 12vdc.

The only remaining unknown is the converter as I am not sure my converter, which is grounded on the A.C. side has any effect on my ability to isolate the 12vdc that it creates and it's internal wiring as it is completely integrated into the 12vdc sustem.. I plan on running some isolation tests as soon as I have a chance and will let you know. Yet despite all this concern I can't think of a single reason I would ever ground the controller's positive to the frame so this might be a moot issue.

My fall back position will be the shunt and monitor method.
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Old 07-24-2017, 10:22 PM   #32
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funny observation...for me....

in this thread somebody said:

"The limitation is mainly altitude, as output power decreases quite a bit as you go higher."

about running air conditioner with a gen set......

if you're at an altitude high enough to affect the generator.....why would you need air conditionning????.....assuming you need it to sleep.....I've never been at 5000' at night and been hot.....heck, the reverse is more like it......No?

just sounded weird to me
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:36 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
in this thread somebody said:

"The limitation is mainly altitude, as output power decreases quite a bit as you go higher."

about running air conditioner with a gen set......

if you're at an altitude high enough to affect the generator.....why would you need air conditionning????.....assuming you need it to sleep.....I've never been at 5000' at night and been hot.....heck, the reverse is more like it......No?

just sounded weird to me
I used to laugh about this statement in the Subaru manual that dropped my towing capacity from 2700 lbs to 1500 lbs; "When towing a trailer on a long uphill grade continuously for over 5 miles (8 km) with an outside temperature of 104F (40C) or above." I thought where would it ever be above 104F on a long uphill grade! Until I drove out of the valley in Death Valley National Park in July. It gets hot on those hills. Cooler than the valley, but hot!
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Old 07-25-2017, 08:33 AM   #34
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I prefer to NOT be plugged in. But, I'm grateful that there's many folks that insist on hookups. That keeps them out of the places I like to go.
As usual, I gotta agree Byron.
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:07 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
in this thread somebody said:

"The limitation is mainly altitude, as output power decreases quite a bit as you go higher."

about running air conditioner with a gen set......

if you're at an altitude high enough to affect the generator.....why would you need air conditionning????.....assuming you need it to sleep.....I've never been at 5000' at night and been hot.....heck, the reverse is more like it......No?

just sounded weird to me
I personally have no plans of running the air conditioner off of the battery but as the unit is only 5000btu it should be possible for a very short period of time before the battery drains. The Fantastic Vent however is adequate when boondocking and doesn't kill batteries.

I have a 2000 watt gas generator that has no problem running the air conditioner or anything else in the camper. Though, I wouldn't want to try running the induction stove, microwave and air conditioner simultaneously off that 2000w gas generator. It probably would just shut itself off. My venture into solar stems from my lack of desire to bring the gas generator with us camping and my love of gadgets, boondocking, and problem solving.

I anticipate only short term use of the 1500w (3000w peak) onboard inverter. Such as running the induction stove to boil some water, cook some stir fry, or run the microwave to warm up leftovers. After such short use letting the battery fully recharge off the solar panels. This can all occur while boondocking off solar.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:37 AM   #36
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LOL...well said....

my love of gadgets, boondocking, and problem solving.

pretty sums up the solar "quest"...

since perpetual motion has been pretty well nixed as an attainable goal....

independence through solar is the next best thing to work on...

lotsa fun...good hobby
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:36 PM   #37
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I agree. Good hobby, great people.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:54 PM   #38
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I agree. Good hobby, great people.
Well, it worked! Thank you everyone for all the tips. I isolated the 12v from the frame via an 8 guage wire run into the camper, hooked up the solar, and can now bypass the load terminals on the solar controller when desired. Click image for larger version

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