Running electric through Solar controller. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-16-2017, 11:41 PM   #1
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Running electric through Solar controller.

I recently added a battery and solar to my Boler. I have a WFCO 25amp converter that will supposedly automatically since when plugged into shore power charge the battery when on shore power and pull 12v from the battery when boondocking , both functions use a single battery lead.

Since all my 12v lights, appliances... is run through the WFCO converter I have the following questions about installing the solar controller.

I purchased a quality 30amp solar controller that has three sets of leads. One set to the battery, one to the solar panels and one to 12v lights, appliances,... in the camper.

Is it ok to run the battery lead from my WFCO controller to the 12v lights, appliances leads on the solar controller? I worry about running the reverse polarity through it when on shore power.

I also have the tow vehicle 12v accessory line and the solar charger batter lead hook directly to the battery.

Lastly I grounded the negative for everything to the frame.. it seams ti work but i fear over charging the battery.

Any through ?
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:45 AM   #2
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What's the make and model of the solar controller?
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:35 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by padlin00 View Post
What's the make and model of the solar controller?
Ditto, you need to give enough information in your question for it to be answered.

Without knowing more, can't say for sure but chances are I would use the solar controller connection to the battery, and one for the the solar panels of course. I would ignore the connections on the solar controller for the 12v lights, appliances. The converter, tug and solar charger all charge the house battery. The battery powers everything in the camper. Usually the converter can also power things without a battery but the solar controller frequently won't put enough power out (if there is no house battery).

Over charging is a small but valid concern, but not because you have three different charging sources, but instead because they have different "brains." Overly simplified, the most aggressive one will "win" and the battery will be charged, properly or not, according to it's brain. One possible complication might be if multiple chargers are in use and run desulfation on a set schedual. It might run too often to be healthy for the battery. But that is not a likely problem.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:02 AM   #4
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agree...

I would ignore the "load" connections on the controller....if you read the instructions they appear to be there for remote applications like lights or gates away from any possible power hook-ups they usually include functions like on at dusk off at sunrise...or hourly choices for those functions

grounding ??? I'd worry/wonder about that one....in my trailer and I suspect most all DC lights and powered items have their own negative (return?) wires....nothing is grounded to supply the return leg, even the trailer running lights. I'm not sure why this is so but that's the way it is...if it ain't broke don't fix it. Maybe someone will supply more detail in this regard.....it gets complicated in a trailer as there is also AC power in there and THAT needs to be grounded.....this is where it gets a little too complicated for me...
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:49 AM   #5
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....if you read the instructions they appear to be there for remote applications like lights or gates away from any possible power hook-ups ....
How can we read the instructions if we don't even know the make and model of the controller?

But of course your point is dead-on, and sometimes referred to as "RTFM." Perhaps a careful read of the manual would have answered the question before it was asked (but if its from China, maybe not).

Most load terminals on solar charges that I have seen are as you describe, and not meant for connection to the entire load of a camper. Many are very limited in capacity. But I have seen at least one that appeared to just be connected to the battery side and so only limited to the current limit of the fuse from the controller to the battery (and wiring, etc.)
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:04 PM   #6
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I am just re-wiring my Trillium and I appreciate the info about the solar panel controller and the load connections.

Now I will need to re-think my approach.

thx guys
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:10 PM   #7
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It is a ACOPOWER HY-MPPT30 30A. Sorry.
Manual:
https://s3.amazonaws.com/feedbackfiv...r+A+series.pdf
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:58 PM   #8
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Acopower hy-mppt30 30a
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:15 PM   #9
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It is a ACOPOWER HY-MPPT30 30A. Sorry.
Well it looks like we have some work to do...

So far, it appears to me that ACOPOWER is a reseller who just relabels other brands. It appears that the HY-MPPT30 is the Chinese EPSolar Solar Change Controller Tracer3210A whose manual is the typicaly poorly written and translated type, and available here: http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/uploads/...0581526220.pdf

Unless I missed it, this manual does not give any specs for the load terminals. But it does seem to be set up for a load as previously described, that its a timed light or something similar and not much more. So not using the load terminals still sounds like the right plan.

Also if this is the right manual, its a positive ground controller, so be sure to wire it up properly. As I understand it you cannot connect the load ground to the RV ground (negative) but I'm no expert on positive ground equipment.

All this needs to be looked at when you have the actual unit and instructions.

Also MPPT might be overkill for a small trailer, and depending on how much you paid for it, it perhaps is not what I would have chose.

(EDIT: Oops, you beat me to it with a link to the manual)
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Old 07-18-2017, 11:47 AM   #10
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I don't know the answer to your question, but also have a 30 amp controller with a LOAD terminal. I would not chance running the converter output to the LOAD terminal, it should only be run to the battery. I was thinking of eventually running all my 12 volt appliances directly off the LOAD terminal but in the meantime I have removed many of the 12 volt items from the converter fusebox and run a new terminal block and circuits from the LOAD terminal. The benefit of using the LOAD terminal is that it still draws power from the battery whether it's being charged by the converter or the solar panels, and I can set a voltage cutoff range so that I don't run any of the items connected to the LOAD terminal below a minimum voltage that I set in order to protect the battery. I can also easily read the amp load that each item connected to the LOAD terminal used instantaneously and total use til reset.
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