RV car charging problem - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 08-08-2012, 06:27 AM   #15
Junior Member
Name: Emile
Trailer: 24 ft Mallard Trailer
Posts: 8
Thanks to help me

I made a good look at it and i found than all the wires from the inverter and the fuses box are going and coming through the floor.
And all the wires from the front are going through the plastic water protection via a hole in a square plate held with 8 screws and water seal all around.
To me i beleave the breaker is beahind that plate and i will remouve it today to check behind.

I took some picture to show wou watt i saw

#1 = On the drawers compartment. The inverter box whih the 2 disconnected ouput wire, one goes to the battery and the other to the main RV connector which has 27 ohms both directions.

#2 = The inverter wires cross the wall to under the stove compartment

3 = Under the stove compartment The fuses boxe

#4 = All wiring under the stove goes through a floor hole

#5 = All wires from the front are going through a plate under the front of the RV

That is the plate i have to remouve today
I hope the seal can be remouved easely so i can put it back with good sealing.

I will tell you if the breaker is there


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Old 08-08-2012, 08:48 AM   #16
Junior Member
Name: Emile
Trailer: 24 ft Mallard Trailer
Posts: 8
I have remouved that plate and found 2 breakers assemble to the wooden floor frame of the RV.
One for the brake-away switch
And one for the RV connector power to jeep

Both of them are very rusted and one i had to break since the screw was too rusted. A 22 ohms resistor is connected bettween the 2 lugs across the thermal swich.

My RV parts store has probably some in stock if not they can order it for me i beleave.

I will give you a final feedback when charging system is working properly

Thanks to all for your help it is very appreciated


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Old 08-08-2012, 07:31 PM   #17
Name: Drew
Trailer: 1975 ventura 400 towed by a jeep grand cherokee sometimes, and an ugly 89 dodge truck other times.
Posts: 40
I think you're overcomplicating/overthinking this issue.

I have to ask.... when you measure across the terminals of the trailer battery with the jeep running, it's 12.7 volts? What is the voltage there with the car shut off? I suspect it'll be 12.7.

Here's a quick test that I'd do : just quickly unplug the trailer from the car, and test the voltage at the trailer charge pin of your car end connector. Put your positive voltmeter lead on the charge wire, and the negative lead to the ground pin.

Based on what you're saying in your initial post, I'm guessing that there's no power being supplied at the back of our jeep, and that you need to trace the circuit for an open, blown fuse, etc in the car, not the trailer.

I suspect this because your convertor works when youp lug in to 120. The convertor isn't used when charging from the car, just a simple wire.

Some of the other guys have suggested a bigger wire, which is a good idea, but you should still have about 13.5 volts to the back, even with a small wire. It just might take all day to charge!

The 27 ohms from the trailer connector to the inverter sounds odd, but should only affect the use of the inverter, not the charging of the battery. What's important is the resistance from the trailer connector charge pin to the positive battery terminal. If that's at 0 ohms, then that reinforces that the fault is in your jeep.

Good luck!
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:38 AM   #18
Junior Member
Name: Emile
Trailer: 24 ft Mallard Trailer
Posts: 8
Thanks everubody for helping me

I have change the 2 breakers and my jeep is now charging my RV battery properly

I can consider that proplem solve

One more question :
What do you think about putting 2 X 12 volts batteries in parallel instead of using 2 X 6 Volts batteries in series
I know there is a small problem due to specific gravity but it is very important for a trailer operation ?
I dont want to bye 2 X 6 Volts batteries since i have already 2 X 12 vols batteries.
Is that two 12 volts in parallel is gone to help very mutch ?

Thanks very much
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:43 AM   #19
Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 325
Excellent, always nice to see a problem worked through to a successful solution

Re batteries; Using 6 volt batteries to build large capacity battery banks is sometimes done. But for trailer and boat use I've always found two 12V batteries in parallel to be the best solution for me. However, I should point out that I always use a battery switch to keep the two batteries separate from each other which prevents me from draining two batteries at once.

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Old 08-10-2012, 02:26 PM   #20
Junior Member
Name: Emile
Trailer: 24 ft Mallard Trailer
Posts: 8
Thanks Ron

I will use two 12 vols batteries

I am plannig to go for a trip of 2 weaks this automne and camps site are close in mid september
So i might be only 3 days in the same place without mooving but it is better to play safe in case i decide to stay longer.


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