RV wiring basics - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-17-2013, 08:25 AM   #1
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RV wiring basics

Since our rv's and boats share the common fiberglass parents, here is a good video on basic boat wiring that should also apply to our own Egg's wiring. Courtesy of Jamestown Distributors.
Sorry the video did not upload- here is the link
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...gn=email011713
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:33 AM   #2
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Lets try this
Wiring Simplified - YouTube
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:07 AM   #3
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Good video. I like that they start out with warning against using Romex in an environment with vibration.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #4
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I saw that, but I think it was in the context of 12v wiring, because later on it mentions other rules applicable to 120v systems, I'm sure romex is still okay for those 120v systems in a boat and or rv.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:00 PM   #5
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Good Video!
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:24 PM   #6
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I saw that, but I think it was in the context of 12v wiring, because later on it mentions other rules applicable to 120v systems, I'm sure romex is still okay for those 120v systems in a boat and or rv.
I'd be surprised, as the objection is that the solid wire breaks from exposure to vibration. Seems like a broken 110 volt wire would be just as problematic as a broken 12 volt wire.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:29 PM   #7
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For marine applications I have used braided romex style wire, tinned copper. So its out there and honestly...if I was gonna add anything 110 volt I would use the braided wire cause trailers def get some vibration lol

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Old 01-17-2013, 12:30 PM   #8
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Good video. I like that they start out with warning against using Romex in an environment with vibration.
Trillium used 14 AWG solid wire for all their 120VAC wiring. What did they say was the problem? Is it metal fatigue? On my first 4500, the stranded 12VDC wire has suffered from corrosion. It looks like water wicked up under the insulation. It could just have been heat from the corroding crimp connection though. There are places where the last inch, under the insulation is badly corroded. The 14 AWG solid is still in good shape after 35 years.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:40 PM   #9
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.........What did they say was the problem? Is it metal fatigue? ........
Video said metal fatigue from vibration and cited the marine standards that prohibit it.
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:41 PM   #10
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Tinned braided copper will last the longest... but they have only been doin that for so many years... but I always figure your better off useing better quality parts when you do a job so hopefully you wont have to ever redo it.

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Old 01-17-2013, 12:51 PM   #11
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Tinned stranded, (braided?) makes sense. Easier to solder as well.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:22 PM   #12
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On my first 4500, the stranded 12VDC wire has suffered from corrosion. It looks like water wicked up under the insulation. It could just have been heat from the corroding crimp connection though.
A vintage trailer restorer convinced me to always shrink wrap all my connections and bare wires to avoid corrosion and to avoid connections from vibrating lose. I had found that some of my original tail light connections had come loose. Have used the shrink wrapping on all electrical changes since, may have to wait another 20 years to see if it really works though .
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:11 AM   #13
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Great video! I'm going to look for the rest of them. Thanks for posting
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Old 01-19-2013, 12:03 PM   #14
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I've always understood that 12v must be stranded wire as the electrons only travel on the outside of the wire and stranded wire offers more surface area for them to travel.
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