Scamp 19 brake away box.

[buff30]

Can someone please post a picture of where the brake away box and battery are located on a Scamp 19? Also where the pull switch is mounted? I am going to be installing on soon and not sure if I should get a top load or side load kit.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by buff30

Can someone please post a picture of where the brake away box and battery are located on a Scamp 19? Also where the pull switch is mounted? I am going to be installing on soon and not sure if I should get a top load or side load kit.

Gene, brake away systems are pretty simple. The switch/pullout pin is normally mounted on the side of the frame rail about 6-8" or so from the coupler on bumper pulls. On your connection it should be pretty much the same, just a different mounting spot and angle. The box and battery set up you're talking of is used on trailers like utility/cargos that don't have house batteries. That is not needed for a trailer that has a house battery like our TTs. Just mount the brake away switch where it's a clear shot for the cable and tap into the trailers 12V power. Easy peasy and you don't have to worry about an extra brake battery going dead. I've never had a trailer come off the ball but to me the brake pin cable length needs to be just short of the max of your safety chains working.

[buff30]

I did not think to use the house battery. That would probably save me some money. Thanks

[Glenn Baglo]

If you are Googling, it is a "break away" device. Not a "brake away" device, even though it activates the brakes.
etrailer.com is a good place to look, and you will find instruction videos on their site:
https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=...kaway_Kit&vp=V

[Borrego Dave]

Dang Glenn, your good.....break-brake. I sure had a brain far* on that one. Hope my wife doesn't read that one as she's a book editor .

[Eddie Longest]

I mounted the switch near the coupler. I then ran a two conductor wire to just inside the shell where the pigtail connects. I tied one wire to the black battery 12v wire and the other to the blue brake wire. Used the House battery as the 12V source. Now is a good time to install a 7 wire pigtail junction box, it really cleans up the wiring rats nest where the wires enter the trailer.
Eddie
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...tro/38656.html

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

Dang Glenn, your good.....break-brake. I sure had a brain far* on that one. Hope my wife doesn't read that one as she's a book editor .

Uh... don't let her see this one, either...

Back on topic... out of curiosity, is there conventional wisdom regarding the possibility that the house battery may end up in a low charge state at the end of an extended stay in one location, leaving you without adequate power for a break-away situation? How many amp-hours do you need to activate and hold the brakes? Say a small G24 battery was at the maximum recommended discharge of 50%- would that be enough?

[buff30]

Jon I believe the thought of a low battery have crossed my mind also. I think that is long as you don't draw the battery down too low it would be fine. The truck would bump up the voltage pretty quick. I would think 10 to 15 minutes of idling would be sufficient. As far as amp hours required the stand alone kits are only like a 5 Ah battery.

[Paul O.]

None of the Scamps come with the break-away switches from the factory. Has the OP inquired with Eveland's?
What are the reasons for not including them? There must be more to it than saving a few dollars on a new Scamp. Can it become a problem in some situations when full voltage is applied? I am all ears (or eyes).

Let's stay on topic and keep the Greek goddess Eris out of it. Just the facts, or reasonable opinions, please.

[Eddie Longest]

Read Bobs reply about half way down in this thread for brake electromagnet current draw. Found this on the internet so it must be true. http://www. yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=ttalk&th=1308068
I could be wrong but. Usually when a dedicated trailer brake battery box is used it is connected to the tow vehicle charge line parallel to the house battery if equipped. So your brake battery will be in the same state of charge as your house battery. Unless you install a blocking diode for the dedicated brake battery from the charge wire. That would have to be a DIY project since I have never seen a blocking diode come with a trailer battery/battery box. I would gamble on more current available house battery than one of those small brake battery's.
Eddie

[DanoFL]

I would want to have power coming from tow vehicle to the trailer.

Having done a lot of camping, I would not want to count on the trailer battery having a good charge. Rather, I would like the tow vehicle to be charging the trailer battery.

[Wayne Collins]

A breakaway switch is like closing the barn door after the horse is out.
Better to have a secure hitch, and strong safety chains to prevent a breakaway.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

A breakaway switch is like closing the barn door after the horse is out.
Better to have a secure hitch, and strong safety chains to prevent a breakaway.

Better yet, don't leave the house.

[lijMichael]

I can see doing this for a tow behind, but a 5th wheel I don't know. If it comes loose from the ball, the ball comes out of the mount, your going to have the whole bed of the camper in the bed of the truck. Depending on what the tow vehicle bed is made of and how sturdy the tail gate is, the camper might not go very far.

Just my 2¢, YMMV.

[buff30]

I did not check with Scamp about this. I had assumed that all Scamps with electric brakes came from the factory with a break away switch. My camper has been so abused by previous owners their was no telling what the camper came with originally. For example they had cut the wires to the brakes because they were giving them problems!

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by buff30

My camper has been so abused by previous owners their was no telling what the camper came with originally. For example they had cut the wires to the brakes because they were giving them problems!

Gene, that's one of the reasons why members here tell new TT owners with in house wiring problems to rewire. There's no telling what the past owners have done. In your case, it may have been in the POs tugs wiring and not the TTs brakes.