Scamp wiring conundrum - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV



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Old 04-16-2019, 02:08 PM   #15
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Name: Jack
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Nigel,


Could you post some pictures of the wiring into the tail light assembly, inside the tail light assembly and also of the wiring coming out of the camper that is going to the assembly? It certainly would help explain things.
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Old 04-16-2019, 03:03 PM   #16
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Hopefully pictures will appear..
First pic - Bargman 98 series tail lamp, Scamp original issue. The upper bulb is for reverse and is superfluous since I only have a 4-pin connection. Lower bulb is the tail/turn/brake. A ground runs from the back of each strip directly into the trailer.
Three pics of the inside wiring from different angles. Green supply connects with green wire to running light of 1157 bulb which does work. White main ground connects to the two grounds from rear of assembly. Yellow supply (reverse light) connects with red wire going to 1156 bulb. Brown supply connects to black wire going to 1157.

Since my last post I tested continuity of the brown wire all the way to the 4-pin connector (where it connects to the green supply from the TV). 0.018 ohms, so it should work.
Attached Thumbnails
P1000210.jpg   P1000215.jpg  

P1000216.jpg   P1000217.jpg  

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Old 04-16-2019, 04:42 PM   #17
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Nigel, I think you previously said that the bulb was OK. Its possible you have a break in the black wire or its associated connector that penetrates the 1157 bulb base. Or possibly a short between the black wire connector that penetrates the 1157 bulb base and the ground portion of the bulb base.
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Old 04-16-2019, 05:10 PM   #18
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Nigel,
Is it possible that the black wire going to lamp housing is pinched? If the running light works it has to mean that the gnd. circuit is ok, unless the gnd for the 1157 lamp is open and not making good contact where its connected.
But that would not be the reason you lost your pulsing voltage. But a short in the black wire certainly would.



Besides that everything looks OK wiring wise.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:01 PM   #19
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Nigel,


I would suggest:


With everything connected for normal wiring, no voltage applied.


1) Disconnect the 4 pin plug at the trailer

2) With your ohm meter, connect neg lead to gnd on the 4 pin plug, use an alligator clip if necessary.
3) Measure the resistance through the lamp circuit to ground on both directional circuits. you will have to know which wire goes to which lamp.

4) Compare results they should be the same. If not then there is a problem.
5) If there is a problem, a lower resistance, - possible short, high resistance, - possible open.



Let us know what you find.
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:49 PM   #20
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Name: Nigel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockman View Post
Nigel,


I would suggest:


With everything connected for normal wiring, no voltage applied.


1) Disconnect the 4 pin plug at the trailer

2) With your ohm meter, connect neg lead to gnd on the 4 pin plug, use an alligator clip if necessary.
3) Measure the resistance through the lamp circuit to ground on both directional circuits. you will have to know which wire goes to which lamp.

4) Compare results they should be the same. If not then there is a problem.
5) If there is a problem, a lower resistance, - possible short, high resistance, - possible open.



Let us know what you find.
Aha! At the 2K setting gReen (right) read 0.040 and yeLlow (left) read 0.002
At the 200 setting right was 34.4 and left was 0.9
So... replace the brown wire? A hassle running it behind all that rat fur. Tomorrow I'll splice a wire right at the 4-pin and run it direct to the lamp. If I see a turn and brake signal I'll know the hassle will be worth it!
A side note - I hooked a 12V battery to the offending light's black wire and it shone bright so I am confident the problem is not in the fixture itself. Thanks!
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Old 04-16-2019, 06:57 PM   #21
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So the left side has a short in the line some where, Check even with the black wire disconnected. If so, a possible cause is the wiring harness is rubbing on the chassis somewhere. Maybe close by in the hitch area? Follow it to where it enters the Scamp?


Keep us informed.
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:59 AM   #22
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Electrical terminology is often misused.
When the term short is used to me it means that a wire is unintentionally connected to ground because of a failure of insulation (or perhaps to another wire for the same reason).
A short to ground causes fuses to blow and wires to overheat and insulation melt due to the heat.
A wire that is open means that current is not being passed to the load and basically nothing happens.

I think you have an open circuit (noting not blowing fuses and no smoke from burning insulation).

I see in the pictures that you have the Scotch lock connectors that are not noted for extreme reliability.

When measuring for "shorts" with a meter a light bulb will read very close to "0" ohms as the filament is basically one of those shorts that gets hot and glows.
The filament heats up and the resistance increases dramatically and thus does not draw excessive current after a quick surge to heat things up.

I would look at any of the Scotch Lock connectors I could get to and sharpen the probe on your meter to penetrate the insulation or better still perhaps just use a straight pin to do it and probe to the copper conductor as you work your way back.
Since one of the bulbs works and they share a common ground the problem is probably not in that part of the circuit.
A wire is not likely to have separated within it's insulation, but it is possible.
Most likely are those pesky splices between the connector and the bulb.
Use the pin and meter with the wire energized and find out where you have the interruption.
Step by step wins the day.
Find any place you can get to the wire and poke that pin in to check for voltage.
I would not worry particularly about the pinprick through the insulation.
The first place to check is right before the wire goes to the socket as often these taillight sockets are (Redacted) up.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:47 AM   #23
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Name: Nigel
Trailer: Scamp 13
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Hallelujah!

I finally saw my right turn signal flash!
I bypassed the existing supply wire(s) by splicing a wire from the gReen wire up by the 4-pin and ran it direct to the black wire that connects to the turn/brake filament of the 1157 bulb.
So there is a fault somewhere along that supply line. I can see that a PO cut off the original 6-pin connector and spliced a 4-pin. That is the most likely spot, and I hope that's the problem, rather than something with the brown wire inside the Scamp. I should be able to tell by repeating Lockman Jack's resistance comparison at a point between the Scamp and the 4-pin splice.
Now if it would just stop raining...
There is a ton of good troubleshooting information in the posts and messages I have received on this topic. I may try to put it all in some systematic order for future reference. What a blessing this community is!
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:58 AM   #24
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Nigel that's great. When checking that splice near the 4-pin connector (and any other splices) I would agree with redbarron that the scotch-lok connectors are notoriously unreliable. In those cases, I would replace the scotch-lok connectors with crimp splice connectors using a good quality crimping tool.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:20 AM   #25
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Good work Nigel, I am sure you will find the problem at that splice, most likely corrosion if its outside the Scamp. Glad it worked out.



If you get the time post some pictures.


Jack
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