Schumacher 10/2 amp Dual Rate Battery Charger - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-09-2013, 07:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Donna, Schumacher makes a wide range of chargers. If you want useful interpretation of the instructions, I suggest posting the specific model number.
SE-1010-2 Dual Rate Charger

I didn't expect to leave it plugged in an on all the time....
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:46 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
SE-1010-2 Dual Rate Charger

I didn't expect to leave it plugged in an on all the time....
The manual (from my link above) seems generic in nature. For example, it says if the charger has an Automatic Charge Mode rather than saying the charger is automatic.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:07 AM   #17
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It doesn't appear this charger acts as a float charger and doesn't shut down automatically, nor does it have a timer. I'll use it as others have done, check the battery monthly and boost the charge as needed. I'll also buy the 24" cable. Better to be safe than sorry!

The only thing I know about batteries and electricity is it works or it doesn't

Everyone has been so helpful and I really appreciate it.

Thanks muchly!!
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:11 AM   #18
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Thanks to Tom for the link and Donna for the model number (which Tom already guessed correctly).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
The manual (from my link above) seems generic in nature. for example it says if the charger has an Automatic Charge Mode rather than saying the charger is automatic.
Yes, but knowing the specific model at least led us to the correct manual for the model range, so we know (for instance) that if it does not say on the charger that it has an Automatic mode, then it will never shut off. That's important, especially when other members who have more complex chargers irresponsibly suggest in this forum that every converter and charger has an automatic shutoff.

I believe that this charger was inexpensive because by the standards of this century it is crude. If you are willing to watch the ammeter and decide when to disconnect it, it will work fine. My 1980s vintage charger is about the same, but I don't use it any more.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:51 AM   #19
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If you are willing to watch the ammeter and decide when to disconnect it, it will work fine.


Thanks everyone!
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:55 AM   #20
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I use both a regular charger (Vector) and a separate float charger. The larger charger is rated at 10 amps and as the battery charges cuts down to 6 amps, then to 2 amps. When the charge is complete, it turns off. It will also measure the battery voltage on its digital display. I've had it for 6 - 8 years and remember it costing about $50 at the time.

The float charger give a charge at 1.5 amps when the battery needs it. I just leave this one hooked up all the time. Whenever the trailer is parked at our home, there is an outdoor extension cord from a receptacle on the house that I plug into the trailer. This provides 120VAC to the the float charger as well as to a receptacle inside the trailer. So the trailer battery is on float anytime the trailer is connected to 120VAC. The float charger was a simple one from Wall Mart that ran $20 - $25 when I bought it. Actually I have several that are hooked up to the batteries on some classic cars I have and have kept the batteries in good shape for several years.

With the price of deep discharge batteries, especially, these days, I figure it pays to maintain them. I'm sure there are better, more advanced float chargers than I have, but I've had good service from these cheapo's. My son is even more frugal than I and uses the $5.00 ones from Harbor Freight on his Cadillac Allante and riding mower with great service.

So while a more sophisticated float charger may give longer battery service life, I doubt it is much more. A case of diminishing returns.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:41 AM   #21
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I have several of the Harbor Freight battery tenders, I use them for small batteries over the winter (motorcycle, tractor, gel cells) and they've always worked well to keep them in good shape. When I first got my truck, there was a small draw somewhere, so I put the charger on to keep it topped off until I had time to trace down the leak. Went out the next morning to remove the charger (tied a ribbon on the wheel to remind me ) and this is what I found:



The battery was almost fully charged, and the truck was shut off. Either there was some sudden draw that overheated the transformer, or a defect that caused a short inside the power supply. Glad it didn't burn my truck, and I won't be using these ever again. Warranty is long gone, thought about calling HF but I'm sure they don't care. Have to find a better solution before winter, I keep all the batteries next to my house backups in the basement, don't want to burn my house down.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:05 PM   #22
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Here is an informative site:

What You Should Know About Batteries

I love the opening quote "few batteries die a natural death, most are murdered".

This article talks mostly of charge voltages, not amperage, so may not be as useful in this case.

One thing I got out of this article is that you CAN accurately determine the charge state of a battery using a Digital Volt Meter....but only if you let the battery "rest", neither charging nor discharging. They have a useful chart to refer to. It all even shows up well on my iPhone, where I have it bookmarked as a useful reference.

The part about most "trickle chargers" supplying 13.8 volts, not enough to fully charge but enough to cause sulfate deposit and off gassing, and eventual ruin of the battery, was also an eye-opener. My old 1980's "10 amp" charger is now under my scrutiny....as I presently am using it in an attempt to revive a weak battery on an old truck. I've learned I have to monitor it closely. Might be time (for me) to step into this century and get a decent charger, maybe even one with the fancy "reconditioning charge", using variable frequency pulse charging.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:11 PM   #23
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I'll argue that you CAN'T check a battery by voltage. I've seen more than a few batteries that will show proper voltage, but as soon as they're load tested, they drop like a rock.
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:57 PM   #24
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Jared, me too!

But it is a well written article posted by professions on the Internet, so they gotta be right, don't they? :-)

I guess there are certain conditions that have to be met for the voltage reading to be anywhere near accurate. If you know your batteries are not bad, then this voltage chart on the linked article works pretty well. But I agree, a battery that has partially sulfated plates might show as good but fail miserably under load

Currently finding out that my 30 year old Schaur charger is putting a bit more than 15 volts into my ( removed) truck battery. This is what the article calls "equalization charge". I'm checking it often, it is outside, bubbling gently. I have gloves and googles on. Can't find my specific gravity turkey baste checker, so going to pull the plug soon.
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:59 PM   #25
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...........Went out the next morning to remove the charger (tied a ribbon on the wheel to remind me ) and this is what I found:



....
Nothing that a little electrical tape won't fix.
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