Solar Panel Install Ideas - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-17-2013, 08:38 AM   #15
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Looks nice but I just don't like th idea of drilling holes in my roof lol. I agree there is the possibility of it being stolenin a higher traffic area but what if it was chained to your tongue or something? Granted if someone wants anything bad enough they will get it... just keeps the more honest nes from stealing it lol


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Old 01-17-2013, 10:01 AM   #16
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Looks nice but I just don't like th idea of drilling holes in my roof lol. I agree there is the possibility of it being stolenin a higher traffic area but what if it was chained to your tongue or something? Granted if someone wants anything bad enough they will get it... just keeps the more honest nes from stealing it lol


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It looks like Ron F. didn't drill any holes in the roof. He used Very High Bonding tape. 90 pounds tensile strength per square inch.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:36 PM   #17
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Hi Ron ,

Nice work on your solar panels . I have a solar panels on the roof of our Trillium too .
If you ever do worry about someone stealing solar panels off your roof I used some trailer tongue locks. Drill an extra hole beside the bolt hole and a round head bolt facing up into the solar panel itself which would take a very long time and awkward to unbolt it , if someone did try to steal it .

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Old 01-18-2013, 05:19 AM   #18
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I really don't know what neighborhoods some people camp in. I've never worried about having things stolen when camping, least of all my solar panels. A thief would need to have a 6 ft. ladder just to get up there to un-bolt them from the aluminum angle irons (or should that be "angle aluminums").

BTW, all of the fasterners are 1/4-20 stainless with nylock nuts. The holes in the angles were drilled oversize to allow using nylon washers and bushings to prevent bi-metalic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum.

I think the VHB I used was 4719, which was what somebody on the Casita forum used for their application. I think the spec is 75#/sq in.

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Old 01-18-2013, 07:33 AM   #19
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Well I was talking about not mounting mine and useing the 40' long cable that comes with it to be able to move the panels out into the sun since I prefer camping in the shade. I just like the lines of the roof without anything on it and my ac unit is built into the side dinette seat.

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Old 01-18-2013, 07:53 AM   #20
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The Parkliner roof would be ideal with the flat trolley part for solar.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:38 PM   #21
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Hey guys, found this idea "crank up solar panel" on this website, scroll down and you will see it with pictures. The guy is using a rv crank up television stand. Looks good.
If you are not interested in that, there are other great tips. Enjoy
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:25 PM   #22
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Mark Nemeth also has written the "Bible" for working with 12V systems: "The 12V Side of Life, Pt 1" & "The 12V Side of Life, Pt 2"

Lots of other good stuff available from his home page.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:54 AM   #23
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Would having solar cells at the end of a 40 foot cord affect their output?
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:33 AM   #24
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Possibly... but a single 100 watt panel would more then be sufficient for my weekend camping... considering the twin batteries would be charging while I drive. During the winter its the heater that eats the batteries... the fantastic fan isn't as much of an energy pig.

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Old 01-21-2013, 12:01 PM   #25
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Would having solar cells at the end of a 40 foot cord affect their output?
You can calculate the power wasted in the cord exactly.

It is the current in amps squared times the cord resistance in ohms. With a set up like this you should try to keep the controller near the battery.

Resistance of Wire (Wire Resistance Calculator)
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Old 01-21-2013, 05:07 PM   #26
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You will see noticeable voltage drops with 40ft of cable unless it's big, especially with lower voltage panels usually found on rv/trailers. Shorter is always better, but it's much more important to be short from the controller to the battery. However this always depends on your needs. If you never see your batteries reach their proper charging voltage (usually between 14.4 and 14.8) it's likely either the cable run is way too long or the panel can't sustain enough voltage or amperage to properly charge a battery. That also presumes your controller works properly.

For long runs, a higher voltage panel works best, but then you'd need an mppt controller.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #27
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Here are a couple of photos of my install. I added 185 watts total
Ron, Do you have one or two batteries. I have only one battery and I'm looking at a 100 Watt solar. But then wondered if there is such a thing as too much solar. Thoughts??
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:49 PM   #28
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The only time I have camped in a campground with power was 3 years ago when I spent a week in Yellowstone.
The trees in the Camp Ground are all at least 80 ft. tall.
It was freezing every night so I used my furnace.
I had a flat roof mounted 50 W panel and a group 27 deep cycle battery.
In the sun the battery is usualy at full charge by 10 am. In the trees at Yellowstone
it was at full charge about 1 pm.
My camping is all in Fire safe Areas in National Forests and ocassionally in the Arizona Desert.
I have 12V TV/DVD player which I use almost every night for DVDs.
I have never been short of power.
John
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