Switch wiring question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-14-2011, 03:20 PM   #1
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Switch wiring question

I am installing a porch light and an indoor (lighted) switch. The light does not have a switch. I would like to know the correct wiring for the switch. (Described below.) I test-wired it from the battery (See crude diagram), with supply (positive) in the center terminal, the other two were ground and load. The switch works the light wired this way, but the (red) switch light doesn't light up. What am I doing wrong?
Illuminated Round Hole Rectangular Rocker Switch.
Two position single pole, single throw illuminated rocker switches . Illuminated 'ON' position with three, 1/4" male blade terminals. Rated at 30 amps and 12 volts DC.
Lawrence
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Old 01-14-2011, 04:02 PM   #2
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I would say that you lighted switch is no good or at least the light inside the switch is no good.
Gerry
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Old 01-14-2011, 05:29 PM   #3
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If the light in the switch is a LED, then it is polarity sensitive. Reverse the leads on the battery and see if it lights.
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:41 PM   #4
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you mention that the switch has 3 terminals, you may want to run a negative wire direct to the light, run a positive to the switch (l) and then from the switch to the light(r)- this should operate the light, then run a third wire(from the middle tab)(m) to the positive lead- this should illuminate the switch red when you throw the switch because the circuit is now complete- try that first with a meter and see if it works.
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:15 PM   #5
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See if this works for you

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawrence W View Post
I am installing a porch light and an indoor (lighted) switch. The light does not have a switch. I would like to know the correct wiring for the switch. (Described below.) I test-wired it from the battery (See crude diagram), with supply (positive) in the center terminal, the other two were ground and load. The switch works the light wired this way, but the (red) switch light doesn't light up. What am I doing wrong?

Illuminated Round Hole Rectangular Rocker Switch.

Two position single pole, single throw illuminated rocker switches . Illuminated 'ON' position with three, 1/4" male blade terminals. Rated at 30 amps and 12 volts DC.

Lawrence
Take the negative wire off the switch terminal now run the positive wire from the battery to the switch you'll have to figure out which terminal on the switch is in and the other two terminals will be out.

Once you have figured with a meter which is in and which are the two outs,
Run the positive wire from the battery to the input terminal, then run the wire from the light to the out terminal of the switch and then run a jumper wire to the other out terminal. Now just run a single wire from the other side of the light to the negative of the battery and when you turn the switch on the switch should light and so should the light.
Make sure you run a fuse inline so if you get it wrong the fuse will blow.

Do not run a negative wire from the battery to the switch.

Just think of the circuit like a string circle and all the components sit in it.

here's how it will look Positive of the battery Terminal to----------Light switch--- (I)in (I)Out-------------------------------------------------- Jumper^wire--------(I)Out---------------(LIGHT)-------------Neg
Battery Post. Done

The jumper wire will power the light in the switch (I) is terminals on the switch,

I hope that helps.
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:28 PM   #6
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Maybe this will help? Peterh's 3-Way Porch Light
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:54 PM   #7
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Lawrence, Harbor Freight has multimeters like 7 Function Digital Multimeter on sale for the ridiculous price of $2.99. Learning to ready voltage, polarity, and continuity will make this the best $3 you ever spent for your trailer.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:08 PM   #8
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switch assembly question..

Hi, can anyone help me with removing the light switch assembly? The one with the rotary headlight switch. It appears that is must come out into the car, rather than pushed back through the panel. I've slipped a thin steel rule in along the top and bottom edges but I can't seem to feel any clips. I can't get anything in on the left and right side. I need the switch assembly out so I can get to the screw behind it that holds the trim panel on.
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:19 PM   #9
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Talking What kind of vehicle is it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jansengeorge View Post
Hi, can anyone help me with removing the light switch assembly? The one with the rotary headlight switch. It appears that is must come out into the car, rather than pushed back through the panel. I've slipped a thin steel rule in along the top and bottom edges but I can't seem to feel any clips. I can't get anything in on the left and right side. I need the switch assembly out so I can get to the screw behind it that holds the trim panel on.
Is it in a car or your travel trailer?
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Old 09-11-2011, 03:26 PM   #10
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Need Help with Lighted Switch

I need to install a lighted switch. It has 3 tabs on the back for the wiring but none of the tabs are marked as to which wire goes to it. One of the tabs is brass colored and the other 2 are silver.

I understand how to route the pos, ground, and load between what I want to use the switch on but don't know which terminal on the back of the switch gets which wire...

No center position, just on and off.

Thanks for any help.
JD
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:39 AM   #11
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Lite to white and green to ground the world around.

AC receptacles, switches and other connections have a silver and a brass connection on all items.

What this means:: When connecting AC wiring, the brass connection goes to the AC hot wire (Black) and the lite (Silver) connection goes to the return (White) wire. If you have a green connection, it goes to the ground (Green or bare copper) wire.
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:48 AM   #12
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After reading the answers posted above, even I am now confused by what I have read. I'm sure that everyone else is totally confused and misinformed here as well...

To answer the question originally posted:

On one side of the pilot light switch there will be both a gold screw and a silver screw. The other side of the switch has a common tab connection terminal, (which may have either one or two screws together,) connected in common by a metal base all by itself on this side. Your switch may not look exactly like my drawing, but the same three terminals will still be present, and will still hook up the same way.

Power supply feed wire (incoming hot wire) - To Gold screw of switch.

Power out of switch, (aka common tab screw) attaches to the porch light power wire.

Pilot light (silver screw) - married (spliced) to both the neutral from porch light and neutral from power feed (all three wire-nutted together.)

Sorry my drawing from CorelDraw didn't transfer worth a crap here...
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