THREE LIGHTS OUT

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by pegski

Tried a good bulb in the “bad” light and no go so it might be wiring of some sort. I didn’t see any kind of fuse for these lights. Where would that be located? Are these lights connected in some way to the fan? All this talk of wiring is kind of over my head. Who should I take it to to check it out? Would I use a “volt meter” to check the socket?

Volt meter is not going to help since there is no power to the socket. The fuse would be by the converter if you have one. The converter door opens and the fuses are in it. You might have to turn everything on and pull a fuse to see what goes off. Mark each fuse so you'll know in the future. Pull fuses until nothing goes off and that may be the light fuse. Replace that one with a good one to see if the lights come on. Have you tried the fan? If it works it is not connected to the lights. The fan shouldn't be connected to the lights though.

[k corbin]

Head on over to the etrailer.com website. They have lots of step by step tutorials and trouble shooting trees with those yes then follow this arrow or no then follow that arrow for the next step for how to figure out why your lights are not working.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Jann Todd

Volt meter is not going to help since there is no power to the socket. The fuse would be by the converter if you have one. The converter door opens and the fuses are in it. You might have to turn everything on and pull a fuse to see what goes off. Mark each fuse so you'll know in the future. Pull fuses until nothing goes off and that may be the light fuse. Replace that one with a good one to see if the lights come on. Have you tried the fan? If it works it is not connected to the lights. The fan shouldn't be connected to the lights though.

A volt meter check of the light fixture, or the wires its connected to, might actually be of some help. You assume that there is no power at all, but we have see a few cases where there was voltage, but not (enough) power. That is to say there was voltage showing on the meter but for some reason (such as a bad scotch-lock connector) the wiring could not carry enough current to power an incandescent bulb or fan. One case at least was in a Scamp where the fan is on the same circuit as the rear interior lights. The mulit-meter is also be used to check the fuse instead of relying on stuff going off when its pulled, or a visual inspection.

OP did try the fan. please refer to this post in this thread and the related thread referenced.

[k0wtz]

sorry to disagree you can use the vom across the legs of the fuse to determine if you have 12v there. thus you don't have to pull fuses to check


saying that if you find the converter or fuse block I would almost bet the manufacture has those fuse slots marked my scamper is!


bob

[John in Santa Cruz]

ok, i'm lookin g at the Casita wiring diagram in the A-Z Guide and it looks like the 3 lights over the bed, plus the water pump, and the fantastic fan, all share the same fuse, and this circuit uses grey wire.

so I'd take your volt meter, and see if you have 12V at the DC screw with grey wires first.

the drawing does NOT show where this grey wire goes up to the cabinets.

[pegski]

You were right! My neighbor looked at the fuses and ignored them the first time just as I had because nothing was marked. I had removed the fuse for the LP detector as it went off all the time so he replaced it and sure enough everything went on. Why it was only labeled “LP” fuse I don’t understand. Before that, I had called Casita and the kid told me I needed a new converter-which I replaced last year! Anyway, thanks for your advice. One day I’ll figure out everything about the Casita.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by gordon2

..
+1 for a fuse being the most likely issue, with a broken or failed connection #2.

Called it! (LOL)

One thing I have learned is that it really is often the simplest thing.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Its always the last thing you check or look at!! ;-p

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by pegski

You were right! My neighbor looked at the fuses and ignored them the first time just as I had because nothing was marked. I had removed the fuse for the LP detector as it went off all the time so he replaced it and sure enough everything went on. Why it was only labeled “LP” fuse I don’t understand. Before that, I had called Casita and the kid told me I needed a new converter-which I replaced last year! Anyway, thanks for your advice. One day I’ll figure out everything about the Casita.

If the detector goes off again then pull it out and replace it or pull the wires and wrap them good with electrical tape. Put the detector back in and buy a battery operated one. That is what we did because our brand new detector kept going off. I think since it is under the bed when it is made up makes it go off for some reason. Just don't unplug it and not put in a battery one. I put the battery one on the wall between the side dinette and bed.

[Glenn Baglo]

I've not found a battery operated LP gas detector for the trailer. Do you have a link?

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

I've not found a battery operated LP gas detector for the trailer. Do you have a link?

We got one at Walmart. Google "battery operated LP gas detector." I got a bunch of hits at several places including Amazon which I hate but they do have them starting at $25.51. We also have a battery operated CO detector. Some even state for RV's. So no problem finding them.

[Glenn Baglo]

Found one from Kidde, but it plugs into a wall outlet. Also note that an LP gas detector should be mounted just off the floor and a CO alarm should be about 3' off the floor.
I've just replaced my LP detector with another Safe-T-Alert hard-wired unit. I also bought a battery operated CO detector.
The dedicated hard-wired LP gas detector goes for about $90. Not sure how they could come up with a $25 combo unit that inspires confidence.
I'd carefully read the specs and the instructions for mounting. The one that plugs into an outlet says "detects high levels of propane gas".
Can you provide brand and model of yours, if not a link?

[k0wtz]

peg when you get a chance you need to get in there and mark where easch circuit is. it will mike you life much better in the future.

bob

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by pegski

You were right! My neighbor looked at the fuses and ignored them the first time just as I had because nothing was marked. I had removed the fuse for the LP detector as it went off all the time so he replaced it and sure enough everything went on. Why it was only labeled “LP” fuse I don’t understand. Before that, I had called Casita and the kid told me I needed a new converter-which I replaced last year! Anyway, thanks for your advice. One day I’ll figure out everything about the Casita.

Glad you found it and it wasn't a short that blew the fuse. If you would have said you pulled a fuse because of the LP detector going off we'd been all over that fix . But I've got a few questions. Has the LP detector always gone off since you've had it or a newer issue? Did it alarm before you opened the LP tank valve to supply the unit or after it was opened? If the tanks were off I'd have to guess that you were the unlucky one to get a defective detector . Might be a good time to turn everything on, pull a fuse and write down what went off on that fused circuit for future reference.

[Glenn Baglo]

It's also a good idea to vacuum the face plate of the detector from time to time or wipe it with a damp cloth ( no cleaning chemicals ). It's in the instruction manual.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

I've not found a battery operated LP gas detector for the trailer. Do you have a link?

Here ya go:
https://www.amazon.com/MTI-Industrie.../dp/B000AMBHG4

It runs off a battery.. of course the battery it runs off of is the house battery

-----
That is the one I added to my Scamp and it is the recommended type of propane alarm installation (hardwired).

Disabling a safety device is taking an unnecessary risk. A better option is to find out why the alarm keeps going off and fix that issue. The only time I might pull the fuse is for extended storage of the camper (to stop battery drain), and then I would make sure to replace it before using the camper.

The alarm could be sounding for a number of reasons including a propane leak, use of hairspray or cooking oil spray, malfunctioning alarm, alarm at end-of-life, etc. See this for more. Also I would bet there is also a way to silence it for a short time (for false alarms) by maybe pushing a button on it. Check the manual.