Tow vehicle battery isolator - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2013, 11:34 AM   #15
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4-20 days sounds like a lot longer than most FGRV's can get by before they are down to a 50% charge. We enjoy watching our movies, using the computer and running a fan when it's warm out and, as such, we can usually get by with 2-4 days on a group 27 battery. If we just used the LED lights it would last a lot longer, but that's not the style of RV'ing we enjoy.

Add to that, when parked a low battery in the trailer will continue to drain the TV's battery until they are at the same potential, even if nothing else is turned on.

FWIW: Even micro-Motorhomes include an isolator to protect the engine battery from the coach draining it when stopped. It's just plain cheap insurance so one doesn't run down both batteries.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:05 PM   #16
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Forgot to mention per that Rain soaked WalMart parking lot overnight stop. The next morning, in the rain still, is when you forget to reconnct the plug and you drive off in the rain with: a) No tail, stop or running lights and, b) Your trailers 7 pin plug& cable grinding itself to death dragging on the ground.

Again, it's all about insurance.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #17
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Just a short length (7") of 2" PVC pipe with an end cap. An offset hole lets the hitch pin be used to keep the plug in place. Joy A. did it first. Hers is attached to her front jack. My jack swivels up so I made a plate and used a muffler clamp. Raz
...Following MR. Raz's steps for water proof of hitch connector, please take a look at my combination 7-and-4 pin connector: A toilet flap in UHall-MeHall Too joined mission possible of water resistance for hitch connector of trailer....Cheer...
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:33 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
4-20 days sounds like a lot longer than most FGRV's can get by before they are down to a 50% charge. We enjoy watching our movies, using the computer and running a fan when it's warm out and, as such, we can usually get by with 2-4 days on a group 27 battery. If we just used the LED lights it would last a lot longer, but that's not the style of RV'ing we enjoy.

Add to that, when parked a low battery in the trailer will continue to drain the TV's battery until they are at the same potential, even if nothing else is turned on.

FWIW: Even micro-Motorhomes include an isolator to protect the engine battery from the coach draining it when stopped. It's just plain cheap insurance so one doesn't run down both batteries.
I believe I mentioned Motorhomes as probably needing an isolator.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:37 PM   #19
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Forgot to mention per that Rain soaked WalMart parking lot overnight stop. The next morning, in the rain still, is when you forget to reconnct the plug and you drive off in the rain with: a) No tail, stop or running lights and, b) Your trailers 7 pin plug& cable grinding itself to death dragging on the ground.

Again, it's all about insurance.

If you really want an isolator have one. I don't think they're necessary.

ALSO if you're RVing and running all that other stuff you'll in an RV park with electricity.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:44 PM   #20
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I like the toilet flapper idea.

I guess I'm too simpleminded, why wouldn't one just put an on/off switch in between the TV battery and the camper. The worst that would happen is you wouldn't be charging if you forget to turn it back on.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:55 PM   #21
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I like the toilet flapper idea.

I guess I'm too simpleminded, why wouldn't one just put an on/off switch in between the TV battery and the camper. The worst that would happen is you wouldn't be charging if you forget to turn it back on.
Why would one put anything between the TV battery and the trailer???
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:06 PM   #22
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Why would one put anything between the TV battery and the trailer???
I know! I know!

If you had no fuse or circuit breaker, you could short out the connecting wire and burn up the tow vehcile, camper or both.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:08 PM   #23
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One other note, I've seen at least one trailer that the owner connected the umbilical at night because there was no trailer battery.
Yes, this is a good point: different circumstances call for different equipment configurations. A trailer with a battery is different from one without a battery.

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I think a lot of the fuss and misunderstanding comes from motor homes and camper inserts. Those have the house battery connected to the cranking battery all the time unless there's an isolator. Different circumstances than a trailer which is disconnected so the tow can be used without the trailer.
Yes, also a good point... although instead of an isolator a motorhome or truck camper could use a cheaper, simpler, and more reliable manual switch - which would accomplish the same thing as unplugging a trailer cable - if the user were more concerned about the cost, complexity, or reliability than the automated functionality. I don't think that these circumstances are so different.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:40 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Yes, also a good point... although instead of an isolator a motorhome or truck camper could use a cheaper, simpler, and more reliable manual switch - which would accomplish the same thing as unplugging a trailer cable - if the user were more concerned about the cost, complexity, or reliability than the automated functionality. I don't think that these circumstances are so different.
That

I may have called it the wrong thing.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:46 PM   #25
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I was told I need an isolator device in the AUX power line from my vehicle battery to the camper battery/rear plug on the car. Any suggestions on what to get and where? The local parts store wanted to sell me a big honkin multi-battery charging device.
I use a 30A inline switch with an LED light, When stopped for an overnight such as Wal-Mart, we simply turn the switch off which Isolates the trailer battery from the TV manually without disconnecting or affecting any other circuit. The switch can be placed in the console or the "A" pillar where is is easily noticed especially after dark. No problems so far.
Also, even with an inverter and a television and DVD player, we have not run our battery down significantly overnight anyway.
It gets a full top-off recharge with a few hours driving.
The only device on our trailer which sucks the life out of a battery like a black hole is the 12V on the fridge.We simply don't use the 12V mode.
We keep 64 once bottles of water and tea in the deep freeze at home to use for keeping the fridge cool in transit.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:22 PM   #26
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I know! I know!

If you had no fuse or circuit breaker, you could short out the connecting wire and burn up the tow vehcile, camper or both.

Fuse or no fuse is irrelevant to the need for an some sort of isolator. An isolator is to prevent the tow cranking battery from discharging via trailer usage.

A fuse is to protect the electrical system. In my system there's 2 fuses in the trailer and one the both tows. One tow has a solenoid and the other full time connection. I've had the solenoid fail leaving me in the dark without a furnace.

I do agree that the charge line needs to be fused in the tow.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:24 PM   #27
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But, but, but I have club passes, er I mean the 4 pin in me 7 pin connector is dead with ignition off. And hot with the ignition on.

jack
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:25 PM   #28
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But, but, but I have club passes, er I mean the 4 pin in me 7 pin connector is dead with ignition off. And hot with the ignition on.

jack
Are you saying you don't have a charge line?
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