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10-20-2013, 09:29 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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It is near impossible for anyone on the site to make that evaluation other than via WAG...
When in doubt I opt for the safe route, in this case, venting. There are any number of small battery type vents available from most RV sources and, once installed they are assumed to be a part of the landscape and become invisible to most.
These are so innocuous and common that I have even used them to cover unwanted holes and/or damage. Adding a vent to your trailer is not at all like Maid Marion giving up her virtue.
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10-20-2013, 09:41 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
Adding a vent to your trailer is not at all like Maid Marion giving up her virtue.
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- thanks Bob - confess I am one of those really tries hard to keep the number of holes in the side of the trailer to a minimum. Was hoping someone with a Scamp had actually done the replacement already with the converter in question.
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10-20-2013, 01:15 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Actually you are talking to some with a Scamp that did install a PD-4045.
When we bought out 2004 Scamp 13', the first thing that happened (the first time we plugged it in at home at that) was that the American (brand) converter went up in smoke and I installed a PD4045 there also.
I added two 3" louvered battery vents on the outside skin for the under seat area. Never leaked a drop, even when washing.
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10-20-2013, 01:24 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
I added two 3" louvered battery vents on the outside skin for the under seat area. Never leaked a drop, even when washing.
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Thanks Bob, would just putting a louvered vent at the end of bench to the inside of the trailer do the job or is outside the only way to go?
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10-20-2013, 02:08 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Can't really guess, I just took the safest way out. I also put a 4 gallon water heater and the water pump under there so it was more than just the PD-4045.
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10-20-2013, 03:29 PM
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#26
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Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14' Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 50
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Does anyone remember what wires were wrong on their PD 4045? I am planning to install a 4045 in my burro and it will be arriving soon.
Thanks
__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
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10-20-2013, 03:44 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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There is a bundle of wires that come out the back for the 12VDC circuits. They each have number tags corresponding to the fuse that they are "supposed " to be tied to.
The problem was only that the wrong fuse number tag was put on certain wires. Worst case is that, when you wire, that the device will be connected to a different fuse than expected. I don't think it's a case of the same wires being wrong each time. After doing 7 of them I have only found 2 wire numbers switched.
With the power OFF and no fuses installed you can always check with a meter from the load side of the fuses to each wire. Set your meter on Beep and it should take about 5 minutes to check all of them. You can do this on the kitchen table, before installation.
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10-20-2013, 04:40 PM
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#28
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Member
Name: Jim
Trailer: 1998 14' Burro WB
Illinois
Posts: 50
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Thanks. Just wrong labeling is not a big deal. I know what you mean with the continuity tester. Thanks for the quick response. I gutted my Burro and am working on the new electrical layout.
__________________
Jim
Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail - Emerson
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10-20-2013, 05:20 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrscottyg
Unless the unit in my trailer is unique (which is unlikely), the PD-4045 pulls air in the front and discharges it out front. The back of the cabinet is solid plastic on top, bottom, and both sides, except where wires pass through. You can feel the warm air exiting the cabinet in the front when the unit is charging at full load.
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Mine is vented front and back, blows out the front.
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10-20-2013, 05:23 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
A question re how much venting is actually needed for the PD. My converter is located in a large rear hatch on the Scamp. No outside vents to that hatch. Only small openings into other inside areas of the trailer where the water and electrical runs through. Would I or should I need to add a larger vent somewhere on the rear bench hatch to the inside of the trailer to give it more ventilation or as the old converter was fine in that location would the new PD be fine there as is as well?
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I would add one. I cut a hole and put mesh on the bottom of the cabinet where the toe kick is, but I put mine under the sink, because my water tanks didn't leave room for it under the rear benches.
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10-20-2013, 05:51 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J
I would add one. I cut a hole and put mesh on the bottom of the cabinet where the toe kick is, but I put mine under the sink, because my water tanks didn't leave room for it under the rear benches.
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Thanks Jared - but when you say "Water tanks" I am assuming you added an extra tank? Only have one in the other bench where the water pump and power cord live - so nothing in the bench that has been traditionally the converters home since it left the factory other than the converter
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10-20-2013, 06:37 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Thanks Jared - but when you say "Water tanks" I am assuming you added an extra tank? Only have one in the other bench where the water pump and power cord live - so nothing the bench that has been traditionally the converters home since it left the factory other than the converter
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Correct, I put twin 20 gallon fresh water tanks in mine, not a problem you'll have. My original breaker box was under the sink, and the converter was under the fridge on the opposite side. I wanted to put it under the bench, but it wouldn't fit with those tanks. I lengthened the dc wiring and ran all of it to the sink cabinet and put the pd4045 there. I relocated the water pump under the sink for the same reason.
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10-20-2013, 07:51 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Trailer: 92 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 11,756
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Thanks Jared appreciated. Not sure under the sink option works for me as I have the breaker box under there but also a hot water tank that takes up a great deal of it.
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10-21-2013, 04:18 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H
Thanks Jared appreciated. Not sure under the sink option works for me as I have the breaker box under there but also a hot water tank that takes up a great deal of it.
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The pd4045 replaces your breaker box. I put mine under the sink so I didn't have to extend any ac wires (except the one for the air conditioner). I have a hot water heater also, probably different than yours, though.
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10-21-2013, 10:14 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 13
California
Posts: 1,889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
I don't think that your trailer is unique in that sense, but the 2 year old PD-4045 in my Hunter is vented both front and back, suggesting a change in the PD design. If anyone has bought one recently, please chime in as to the venting.
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I bought my PD-4045 last December 2012 and its case is vented. I mounted mine under the front bunk in my Scamp 13. The previous owner cut the base of the front bunk to mount a table I made a frame and mounted in that foot well. Unit resides right where the front power cord from the battery comes in. That compartment leaks to the back of the frige so no issue with venting.
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10-21-2013, 05:23 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul
Posts: 196
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Thank you all for such useful information. Very helpful.
If I install a PD4045 and decide to start using a solar panel, how does that interface with the system? Is another control panel needed for that?
Craig T.
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10-21-2013, 06:36 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Yes, that uses a separate controller.
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10-21-2013, 09:26 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: Paul
Trailer: '07 Scamp 16' SD
Wisconsin
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
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I second this book, a lot on the theory of 12 volt electrical system design, including solar.
Yes, you will need a separate charge controller for solar
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10-27-2013, 06:32 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul
Posts: 196
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Thank you all for your input. This is just what I was hoping for!
Any further thoughts are welcomed.
Craig T.
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