Trillium 1300 DC Overload Block Malfunction

[BarbinBC]

3 hours with an electrician and we narrowed the 12V problems down to a malfunctioning DC overload block. It's between the 12V batteries (in feed) and the fuse panel.
Two questions -
How to get access to the block for removal? The water tank is in the way.
Where to get a new block?

We were wondering if the water tank is in backwards since there is a drop down section on one side of the tank that would make access to the wiring much easier, but it is on the side facing the outside of the trailer.

It's so tight I can't even get a photo of the block!
Any help or ideas much appreciated.

[Roy in TO]

Try contacting Trillium Outback. They are still in business.

[Bob Miller]

What the heck is a "DC Overload Block"? I've never heard that term used when referring to RV wiring.

BTW: What was the original problem?

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

Try contacting Trillium Outback. They are still in business.

Depending where in BC you are Escape Trailers in Chilliwack have a lot of experience with Trillium's (in fact built them for Trillium for a time). They do repairs on all brands of fiberglass trailers and their rates are hard to bet here in BC.

I am also confused as to the terms used in the original post so not clear on the actual issue....

[RogerDat]

Are you talking about something like this overload relay?
How the overload relay ('thermal block') protects your air compressor - Air Compressor Guide

Or is it something that just holds fuses. Those come in blocks but it would seem a most odd spot for a fuse block.

[Carol H]

Its a head scratcher but I would have thought that there was just a simple inline fuse between the battery and fuse panel which is what most trailers have. As it was suggested earlier I suspect calling Trillium in Calgary who built the trailer may result in a good answer to the original question.

[BarbinBC]

Thanks for your responses. To answer some of your questions:
The 12V system was working when I left on holiday but not after that. We checked the batteries, fuses and all were okay so we went back further.
Where the power from the 12V batteries comes through the front wall of the trailer and is attached to a "block" by 2 screws with 2 wires under each screw on the block.
My electrician says this block is to prevent any overload/excess power coming into the trailer. The block itself is attached to the front wall of the trailer and is a piece of black plastic, rectangular shape, about 1" x 3/4" by 3/4" thick.
Everything was checked with a multi-meter and that's where he found the short.