Trillium 1300 wiring help - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-25-2014, 09:07 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Lilytrilly View Post
The road trip to Princess Auto is scheduled for Saturday morning, and we now have a whole list of ideas! All is wonderful! I will be extensively documenting, in any case, so if I mess up at least I'll be able to figure out how.
Before you go/get too deep into a tear out:
I really recommend that you investigate further the cause of the sudden anomaly you've noticed per erratic behavior of the light/brake wiring. The problems you describe in the threadstatrter sound to me like you might just have a simple bad-ground problem and perhaps one or two bad connections. Completely tearing out/replacing all wiring may not be necessary or even called for.

Assuming that no one's been heavily into the wiring before you and/or torn a bunch of the original out: After the pigtail, all wiring is inside the trailer protected from the elements; and at least in the case of my 1978, mostly further protected from wear/abrasion by plastic tubing. My wiring is in pristine condition except perhaps at the one or two end-points where an individual light had deteriorated. I cleaned up and reconnected those points; I also had my doubts about the junction box between the pigtail and trailer wiring and replaced it with a standard trailer junction box designed for the purpose. I also of course insured that everything is well-grounded.


You may well save yourself a LOT of trouble/expense if you take those simple first steps before completely abandoning/tearing out/replacing wire that is perfectly serviceable/in good working order. You'd be losing nothing in the process, since all those steps must be taken during a full rewire anyway.
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Old 04-25-2014, 11:01 AM   #16
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These lights can be installed inside the Trillium lenses. They go on sale for $40 from time to time. What is nice is that they come with enough wire to replace all the tail light wires :
12V Submersible LED Trailer Light Kit | Princess Auto
LED tail lights for Trilliums on sale in June 2012
Just got my flyer in the mail, April 29-May 11, 2014. The lights are on sale again but the price is $50. Like it has been the last few times on sale. We must have made them too popular!

On edit, flyer reads 8V. The item specs say 8-14V.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:45 PM   #17
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A similar box to what Francesca has pictured is also available at Princess Auto:
7:6 Trailer Wiring Junction Box | Princess Auto

Francesca is correct that most of your electrical is probably good. I would at least inspect as many wire ends as you can find. If the wire is black and crunchy, or just corroded completely away, strip it back till you find shiny copper. I have found the wire, in places on one of my trailers to be corroded about an inch under the insulation. This is where heat shrink would have helped.

The lights that Roy has linked to are a very good way to convert your tail lights to LED's, and like I said earlier they include all the wire necessary to get from the back of your trailer to the tongue.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:48 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
These connectors are heat shrink and have solder in the center that melts when heat is applied, as with this little torch.Attachment 70235

Attachment 70236
That looks like a good system, and way less work then what I do now.
Where can I get some to try out?
Can the connector be crimped, as well as soldered?
Do the wires need to be tinned before being soldered?
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:30 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post

The lights that Roy has linked to are a very good way to convert your tail lights to LED's, and like I said earlier they include all the wire necessary to get from the back of your trailer to the tongue.
You're referring to the lights at this link (and in pic below), correct?

This puzzles me... unless one cuts off that four-flat connector and direct-wires up front at the pigtail connection I don't see how they can be used on a Trillium. Is the suggestion to just abandon the stock Trillium pigtail in favor of a direct connection to the tug itself?

If so, how would one power the marker lights on the trailer, not to mention the charging line and brakes if so equipped?

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Old 04-25-2014, 01:43 PM   #20
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There are four wires that can be run to the junction box that is under the drivers side of the gaucho. From there you splice into your exterior cable that plugs into the trailer. The marker lights and everything else is not affected. The connectors that come with it are cut off and disposed of.

That also applies to the lenses and housing. What is used is the inside of these tail lights. Besides the rear facing LED's you see, there are also side facing, and lights for the licence plate.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:29 PM   #21
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The lights that francesca knowles posted. I bought a set of these at Harbor Freight, hacked them up and installed in the original VW Thing tail lights. They work great.
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Old 04-25-2014, 06:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
There are four wires that can be run to the junction box that is under the drivers side of the gaucho. From there you splice into your exterior cable that plugs into the trailer. The marker lights and everything else is not affected. The connectors that come with it are cut off and disposed of.

That also applies to the lenses and housing. What is used is the inside of these tail lights. Besides the rear facing LED's you see, there are also side facing, and lights for the licence plate.
Sounds like one's throwing away 75% of the purchase-? Which reminds me...does the O.P. actually need/want brand new lights or are we just spendin' other folks' money whether they want us to or not...again? ...

Anyway:

I guess I could see the utility of using these IF one needed all new wiring in addition to new lights. Maybe. Assuming one could figure out how to run that wrong-color/four-flat wire through the interior of the trailer all the way up front to the plug. If original wire is left intact, it could still power the existing running lights. Which by the way its my understanding must be lit/used if installed as original equipment.

But if there's wiring at the rear already, why not just hack all the excess off and make the connection right where it belongs, back where the lights are? Or better yet, just buy lights without all that extra stuff that one's discarding anyway?
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Old 04-25-2014, 07:09 PM   #23
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Good plan, but the lights come in a kit, with the wire and housing. I have not seen them separately. I agree, it does seem like a waste.

This is not the first electrical project I would tackle, especially if the existing lights work. There is no need to change to LED's, other then they are brighter, and more reliable then the bulbs. They also consume less power, but since that comes from the tow vehicle, it is kinda not a big deal. I choose them more for the cool factor then anything. I am also changing the marker lights to LED's. When the intent is to strip out all the existing wire and replace it with new,(as I plan to do) then the four conductors provided with this kit would simply be a convenient source of material.

Why do you say they are the wrong color? The wires are standard trailer wiring colors. I doubt they would confuse many future owners.
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:58 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
You're referring to the lights at this link (and in pic below), correct?

This puzzles me... unless one cuts off that four-flat connector and direct-wires up front at the pigtail connection I don't see how they can be used on a Trillium. Is the suggestion to just abandon the stock Trillium pigtail in favor of a direct connection to the tug itself?

If so, how would one power the marker lights on the trailer, not to mention the charging line and brakes if so equipped?

The ones above I put them on my Trillium without drilling required. it's simple, bright in darkness and marker lights aren't affected....
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:26 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Sounds like one's throwing away 75% of the purchase-?
...
Or better yet, just buy lights without all that extra stuff that one's discarding anyway?
I found out the hard way, that the lights are more expensive purchased separately than as a kit. LH = $34.19, RH = $26.42 Total = $50.61
http://www.cerka.ca/comersus7f/store...idProduct=7056
http://www.cerka.ca/comersus7f/store...idProduct=7055
Previous sale prices at Princess Auto was $39.99, upcoming sale is $49.99.

I didn't throw away the housings and lenses, I sold them for a cheap price online. Someone was happy to get a deal on replacement parts rather than having to buy new. They are the same housings and lenses that are also sold with regular bulbs. You also get to keep the handy wire clips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
I choose them more for the cool factor then anything.
I chose them for the safety factor. They are much more visible day or night. Got tired of people telling me my lights were not working when they were.
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Old 04-26-2014, 12:21 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Before you go/get too deep into a tear out:
I really recommend that you investigate further the cause of the sudden anomaly you've noticed per erratic behavior of the light/brake wiring. The problems you describe in the threadstatrter sound to me like you might just have a simple bad-ground problem and perhaps one or two bad connections. Completely tearing out/replacing all wiring may not be necessary or even called for.
Unfortunately when we tried fixing some of those bad connections, and peeling down to get to clean wire, it was fused... and didn't look great. Certainly not all of it needs to be replaced - one side has been redone - but we're going to take out the older stuff to clean it all up and match up the two sides.
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Old 04-26-2014, 12:49 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Why do you say they are the wrong color? The wires are standard trailer wiring colors. I doubt they would confuse many future owners.
Except for the white ground wire, the wiring colors on those lights are wrong for the Trillium, as given on the original wiring diagram. link

Here's before/after, beginning with original wire color :
LT/stop: red; changes to: yellow
RT/stop: brown; changes to: green
Tail/sidemarkers: green; changes to: brown


A start down the slippery slope of Wire Chaos, in my opinion.

Easily avoided however if one whacks that harness off and uses original trailer wiring, making the connection back at the lights themselves just as if one bought nonprewired replacement lights. And on the plus side of that solution:

One would have something USABLE left over: a complete, intact, four-flat wiring harness for a utility/boat trailer or other future project. Heck- it looks to me like it even comes with the car connection....if nothing else, sell it for ten bucks at the next garage sale!
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Old 04-26-2014, 01:01 PM   #28
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Here is the wire/colour code on my 75 Trillium
White is Ground
Red is left signal
Brown is right signal
Green is (4) marker LIGHTS
BLACK is 12 volt line
Yellow---- for B/U lights if equipped
Blue ??not connected

The brake lights work thru the signal lights.
RRJR

Cat, where in Ontario are you located ?
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