Trillium Wiring

[Alex C]

The fuses are 5amp and the distrabution center and 10 amp at the other end of the 12v wire. I do not have a TV or isalator. The converter is a 50amp WFC that I got from a 33ft 5th Wheel trailer. The gentleman was upgrading to a 80amp converter.

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

The converter is attempting to charge your battery and/or provide some of the cranking power to start the tow vehicle. Simple answer like if it hurts when you do that, don't do it. If the fuses blow when shore power and the tow are connected don't connect them both at the same time.

I know what your saying but it happens usually by mistake. My daughter forgot to take off the tow vehicle plug because she did not need the tow vehicle while in the campground. I blew a fuse trying to test the light and also forgot to disconnect the tow vehicle plug thus blowing the 5amp fuse with the frig off.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Alex C

I know what your saying but it happens usually by mistake. .....

I think Byron is correct - the tow vehicle (TV) is drawing power off the trailer when starting. The solution is either a relay wired so that it only contacts when the engine is running or an solid state isolator (not preferred due to voltage drop).

Amazon.com: Stinger 80 Amp Battery Relay Isolator: Automotive

Wire it to a circuit that is only hot when the ignition is on - like the radio.

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by Alex C

By the way Roy, I see that Princess Auto has put the LED Tail Lights on Sale again at $39.00. I'll be going down there on Tuesday to pickup a set.

I went to Princess Auto today (July 24, 2012) and purchased the LED trailer lights that are on sale for $39.99 regularly $79.99. Now the real task begins. Now that it is not too hot I will work on it today. I noticed that the small LED lights are still not on sale. So, Roy you will have to wait a little longer to put them next the the larger LED tail lights.

[Roy in TO]

Alex,
The 2 fuses that keep blowing are the only fuses between all 3 sources of power.
The manual for the Dometic RM211 says the fridge needs a 10 amp fuse and nothing else should be connected to that circuit.
What about putting a breaker / fuse on the 12V side from your TV (you should have something there anyways) and moving the connection to the line directly feeding the battery?

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by Alex C

I have drawn up what I have done to the wiring of the trailer. When the Shore Power and Tow Vehicle are plugged in at the same time you will see that I blow 2 fuses and one of the fuse holder and wires. If you have any suggestions I will gladly accept them. NOW if I can only figure out how to insert a image?

Attachment 49161

I have found a questionable wire route that troubles me so I changed some of the wiring. Let me know if you agree or disagree. I have removed one of the fuses and holder and run the tow vehicle power wire to the supply of the distribution center.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Alex C

I have found a questionable wire route that troubles me so I changed some of the wiring. Let me know if you agree or disagree. I have removed one of the fuses and holder and run the tow vehicle power wire to the supply of the distribution center.

That's more typical. You might want to consider changing the 30amp fuse to 20 amp. If you're concerned about that measure the current with the stuff you would normally have on, on.

[AKSCAMP]

Thanks for the wiring diagram there. I have to completely rewire my Scamp and I'm having to learn the why and where of isolaters, converters, inverters, etc. Hopefully it helps me once I'm under way.

[Byron Kinnaman]

I would impress upon you and your daughter or anybody else. That when you stop for the night to unplug from the tow vehicle. A blown fuse is easy to fix, but it might be a bit more difficult to start the tow vehicle if you used up both batteries.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Alex C

I have found a questionable wire route that troubles me so I changed some of the wiring. Let me know if you agree or disagree. I have removed one of the fuses and holder and run the tow vehicle power wire to the supply of the distribution center.

I still think that you need a relay to isolate the two batteries when the engine is not running.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

I still think that you need a relay to isolate the two batteries when the engine is not running.

One of my vehicles has a relay, I had it fail. It failed to close so ended up with a dead house battery that I expected the tow to recharge. That was before I had the solar panel.
There almost always a way. I connected my little inverter to tow battery and plugged in a battery charger. Of course I had to burn a bit gasoline to get the house battery charged. But, saved the trip.

Seems like there's no fool proof answer and sometimes the low tech simple works best.

[Joe MacDonald]

You could consider putting a relay in the trailer, hooked up to the shore power (110 volt) for the coil, and run the positive lead going to the tow vehicle through a normally closed contact on the relay. That way when plugged into shore power, the relay energizes, and disconnects the tow vehicle circuit

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

That's more typical. You might want to consider changing the 30amp fuse to 20 amp. If you're concerned about that measure the current with the stuff you would normally have on, on.

I originally had a 20amp fuse and found the it keeps cycling when the battery is low and needs recharging from the converter. It put in a 30amp fuse and now it has stopped recycling.

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald

You could consider putting a relay in the trailer, hooked up to the shore power (110 volt) for the coil, and run the positive lead going to the tow vehicle through a normally closed contact on the relay. That way when plugged into shore power, the relay energizes, and disconnects the tow vehicle circuit

Thanks Joe, I found a relay in my electrical parts box and plan to install it just like you have said. Hopefully it still works. Thanks everyone for all your help.

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by AKSCAMP

Thanks for the wiring diagram there. I have to completely rewire my Scamp and I'm having to learn the why and where of isolaters, converters, inverters, etc. Hopefully it helps me once I'm under way.

Here is the wiring diagram with the Relay installed. I installed it next to the distribution center and made up a plug to insert it into a receptacle that was used for the microwave oven. It provided me with the 110v used to power the relay when plugged into Shore Power. I hope it helps.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Alex C

I originally had a 20amp fuse and found the it keeps cycling when the battery is low and needs recharging from the converter. It put in a 30amp fuse and now it has stopped recycling.

The size of the fuse has nothing to do with that.

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

The size of the fuse has nothing to do with that.

Unless it is a solid state, self resetting fuse.

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Unless it is a solid state, self resetting fuse.

The Fuse is a can style resetting fuse that has two lugs with nuts attached. I have installed it in the positive line at the battery. When I had the trailer in my driveway I forgot use the battery disconnect switch and wore the battery down. When I plugged it in to Shore Power that 20 amp resetting fuse kept blowing and resetting so, I put in a 30amp fuse and that problem went away.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Unless it is a solid state, self resetting fuse.

I think we are talking about a circuit breaker.

[Alex C]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

I think we are talking about a circuit breaker.

That picture of the Circuit Breaker is nicer looking than the one I installed. Thanks Thomas for the proper name of that Fuse.