Uhaul CT-13 : Replacing Converter

[knighth001]

So I'm finally getting around to replacing the converter in my Uhaul. the original one still works but it'll boil the junk out of a battery....it did my old deep cycle trolling battery I put in there and I haven't replaced that yet until I could replace the converter.

Here's what I've got so far:

PD9245C Converter (45A)
BlueSea DC 6 Circuit Distribution Panel (100A max)
SCOSCHE In-Line Fuse Block w/40A Maxi

I know the factory converter has the circuit panel built in. I don't currently have time or money (just installed a fantastic fan last week) right now to redo all the wiring and it looks in pretty good shape. My hope is to pull the old converter, wire in the new one, and then wire in the distribution panel.

I know I need to wire the 40A maxi fuse block on the positive side of the Circuit Panel. What I'm not sure is if it matters if the 40A is between the battery and converter?

Which is better or does it matter?

1)
Battery
|
| |
40A block PD9245C
|
Distribution

Or
2)
Battery
|
40A Block
| |
Distribution PD9245C


I also have a SCOSCHE PDM482 Fused Distribution Block laying around. It has 30A fuses in it but perhaps I should use it in place of the 40A in-line and put a 50A fuse? on the side that goes to the converter?

Thoughts?

As for Load right now, I have Fantastic fan wired in in place of the old swamp cooler, original heater, LED's over the sink, original stove hood, and original flourescent over the closet door.

I plan to add some USB and cigarette lighter outlets for accessories later. Accessories would be charging phones, and possibly powering a small 7-9inch LCD/DVD player (kind that you hang on the back of the seat in the car for kids).

[Thomas G.]

This is similar to what I did. I wanted the fuse (in my case a circuit breaker) as close to the battery terminal as possible, so if a wire shorts, the fuse blows.

So

Battery
I
Fuse
I
Heavy Duty Switch
I
Distribution panel
I
Converter (which has it's own fuses)

[knighth001]

Thanks Tom, so I don't need to Y the distribution and converter I can wire them inline?

Also, I'm trying to recall. The converter is 45A output rated and I know it has 30A fuses in it. So should my main fuse off the battery be 40A or go with 50A or higher?

Hoping I get it right and don't blow a fuse the first time I plug it in or worse fry something.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by knighth001

Thanks Tom, so I don't need to Y the distribution and converter I can wire them inline?

The battery and the converter can join at the distribution box input terminal, or join at the battery with a wire continuing on to the distribution box.

Also, I'm trying to recall. The converter is 45A output rated and I know it has 30A fuses in it. So should my main fuse off the battery be 40A or go with 50A or higher?

The fuse at the battery is based on the current carrying capacity of the wire from the battery to the distribution box. I would want at least 30 amp capacity in the wire / fuse.

Hoping I get it right and don't blow a fuse the first time I plug it in or worse fry something.

Feel free to post a schematic before you plug it in. I like the switch that I put in next to the battery. Comforting to be able to shut it off quickly if the smoke starts escaping from the wires.

[John O]

Check out Vintage Trailer Supply's web site , they sell Intellipower converters and have an excellent wiring schematic on there.

[rockead rob]

I changed the power converter as shown in the pics. I bought a terminal strip to support the 12 DC circuits off of the converter. The colored wires represent positive and the white wires are all negative. The Group 31 deep cycle wedges nicely between the wheel well bin and the converter. I will be adding a switch between the battery and the terminal strip in the near future.

[Thomas G.]

I took advantage of this dead space as well, though I just mounted the converter hanging under the furnace and left the battery and distribution panel in the rear. In my case, that left the space to hold rarely needed items, like extra bearings. Not better, just a different approach.

Photo is the area under the furnace, looking forward from the compartment behind the closet.

[knighth001]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I've done a lot of 12V car audio/accessory wiring but never done a converter. I haven't torn the old one out yet. I've been tracing and labeling the existing wires to confirm what each goes to.

After looking at the wiring diagrams that came with the new converter and the ones I've stumbled online. It seems that there should be a wire from the case of the new converter to chassis ground. and I see a matching wire with the existing converter I think I can reuse that goes through the floor to the frame of the trailer.

What's throwing me is that the diagrams all seem to call for the (-) side to also be grounded to chassis ground either at the converter or battery or both if they're far apart. Docs say not to use the ground wire from the case but use a separate one. I don't see that in the existing system at all. Am I missing that somewhere? Does the old converter just use the case ground wire? Everything in my camper is working fine right now when plugged in with the existing converter. But I swear I don't see a second ground wire.

[rockead rob]

I did not ground my electrical system to the camper. The converter shares the same ground with the battery and all 12v electrical devices. I don't know if this is correct or not but I have no problems.

The trailer light (running, tail lights, stop lights) wiring does ground to the frame.

The AC shares ground through the shore power hookup.

That's how my system is configured.

[Thomas G.]

[QUOTE=knighth001;412686]...............

After looking at the wiring diagrams that came with the new converter and the ones I've stumbled online. It seems that there should be a wire from the case of the new converter to chassis ground. and I see a matching wire with the existing converter I think I can reuse that goes through the floor to the frame of the trailer.

Yes, they want a ground for the 110 volt system to prevent the frame from accidently getting energized and creating a shock hazard

What's throwing me is that the diagrams all seem to call for the (-) side to also be grounded to chassis ground either at the converter or battery or both if they're far apart. Docs say not to use the ground wire from the case but use a separate one. I don't see that in the existing system at all. Am I missing that somewhere? Does the old converter just use the case ground wire? Everything in my camper is working fine right now when plugged in with the existing converter. But I swear I don't see a second ground wire.

The 12 volt ground doesn't need to go to the frame, as there are separate ground wires that ground all the lights, fans, etc. You will want a ground terminal where the 12 volt grounds all come together, including the ground wire from the battery.