vector 1000W inverter? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-16-2007, 09:30 AM   #15
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My 400W has a cooling fan.
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Old 01-16-2007, 11:13 AM   #16
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If I use an optima blue top deep cycle battery will it be good?...
Every time I check, the Optimas have 10-20% lower amp-hour capacity than a less expensive lead-acid battery of the same size. This isn't the answer to the inverter issue.

I may have missed it in someone else's post, but a 1000 watt inverter being used anywhere near it's capacity would have to be direct wired into the battery. 83 amps of current would need a pretty large wire size, probably on the order of battery cables. Losses due to resistance at that high amperage with much smaller wire would be significant.
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Old 01-16-2007, 11:21 AM   #17
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Our electronics, including TV, run directly off 12v, and I have a 175w inverter for fluorescent light and miscellaneous rechargers. It is hardwired into the 12v system, is turned off/on with a wall switch and feeds several gray outlets which is a kind of color-coding to keep me from getting them confused with the white shore-power outlets.

At one time a 350w did this job, but it had a cooling fan and the smaller one did not, so I switched. Too much loss, the fan was noisy and I did not need the extra capacity.
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Old 01-16-2007, 11:27 AM   #18
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My little 70 watt invertor, that is about the size of a Chunky candy bar and is directly fitted into a lighter socket (No pigtail) has a teeny tiny fan.

I have the 70watt one for a little lamp, and a 100w smart invertor for the comp, and a 400 watts one for emergencies, I guess, it came with my solar panels.

They ALL have fans.

The 400 watt one got used for work a few weeks ago, to power a little guitar amp in a car for a promotional demo. The car was running at the time. It worked great, was quiet, but I usually leave amps at home when camping

If you HAVE to invert, use the smallest one available to do the job, with a small fudge factor. No need to run 1ooo watts to run a 60 watt item.
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Old 01-16-2007, 12:46 PM   #19
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As long as we're kinda, sorta raining on this particular parade, it might be time, again, to take a potshot at 12v DC versions of 120v AC appliances.

Pretty much any of them that involve heating something (like coffee, or microwave popcorn) pretty much s*ck.

On the assumption that they are the plug-in variety, they are mostly limited to 15 amps DC which is the amp limit for most accessory sockets. That is about, for simplicity's sake, about (12v x 15 amps=) 180 watts. Coffee perks take forever, and I'm thinking that a 200-ish watt microwave is not in any hurry to pop the corn either. Stuff a 20 amp fuse in the accessory circuit isn't adding much to the wattage.

(not counting electrical efficiencies, wiring losses, actual voltage in a running vehicle or charged battery, yada yada yada.)
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Old 01-16-2007, 01:48 PM   #20
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It's reply-to-steve day, since he has brought up some interesting points...

Yes, AGM batteries tend to have lower capacity than flooded batteries of the same package size, but they have offsetting advantages. They're all (including gel cells) lead-acid; it's just a matter of how the lead is structured and how the acid is contained. In a situation which does not benefit from the unique characteristics of AGM batteries, they are not likely to make practical or economic sense, and maxing energy storage may be a good example of where not to use them.

While very small inverters plug directly into lighter sockets, and small inverters come with attached DC input cords, the 1000W units (like mine) usually come with input terminals (no wire) and stern directives in the manual to use short and thick cable. I agree that this is important, and since the current is comparable to that for a starter motor, I think "battery cables" is a good comparison point.

I agree with the 12V heating appliances point, too. There was one 12VDC microwave we found and discussed earlier, and while it had cooking power comparable to the smallest home units and took a bit less power than the AC (via inverter) alternative, it was still a very large fraction of one hundred amps. Way beyond that lighter socket's capacity...
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:01 PM   #21
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Flooded lead acid. That was the phrase I was looking for.

I had heard that AGM batteries were originally developed for the miltary and jet fighters. The acid didn't spill out while the plane was inverted. Perhaps urban legend, none the less, keeping my trailer upright is a price I'm willing to pay to use the flooded lead acid technology.

Only when I buy a fully aerobatic trailer will I consider Optimas!
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:51 PM   #22
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...Only when I buy a fully aerobatic trailer will I consider Optimas!
Good plan. When you do, please post action photos! My own aerobatic trailer plans are even further behind than my amphibious trailer plans...

But seriously, Optimas and other AGMs are popular among off-road enthusiasts, who don't usually go inverted but do get to some extreme angles. At least a couple of our members have taken their eggs off-road, and that might be a example of a good trailer application.

I was trying to figure out how to pack batteries under the floor of my Boler, and laying sets of Optima 3-cell 6V AGM modules on their side was a possibility (which I have not pursued).

This still doesn't help Drew power his heater, but I think that's a lost cause regardless of the battery construction.
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Old 01-16-2007, 07:45 PM   #23
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The guy with the big inverter in the glove box of his Wrangler had it strictly for his coffee pot; he was a part-timer, traveling to Colorado from Florida for half the year, writing books and articles about mining in Colorado.

Bigger inverters cost more in overhead energy used, indeed.

There's no particular advantage to the Optima battery in this application, in fact it's likely less -- The Optima usually has fewer amp-hours available than the equivalent flooded-cell and is a dual purpose (starting and deep-cycle), rather than a true deep-cycle.
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:05 AM   #24
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The advantages of the older "convection" heaters. My Love Bug has the original convection heater in it and I love it. I have camped in the LB at 0 degrees F and it stays at about 55F inside. As long has I have propane in the tank, I have heat. During deer season this year my LP tank was used 7 nights and it still has gas in it. The heater is only 9000BTU's so it is not very big. We used our old pop-up camper for 17 years in all types of weatheer, it has a convection heater in it also. These heaters have an outside air intake, direct vent to the outside and use no electricity. The ultimate answer for boondocking. I even picked up an extra heater for the day when my old one bites the dust.

I am a safety freak though, I ALWAYS have a CO/smoke detector on board.
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:10 AM   #25
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Bob,

What brand heater is it? I've not gone the Olympia catalytic route because I don't have a good spot to mount it. If your unit could be made to fit the space where my Suburban forced air unit is, I'd be on it in a minute.
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:37 AM   #26
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Sorry, My heater is not for sale. Just explaining the type for anyone not familiar with them.
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Old 01-18-2007, 01:19 PM   #27
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Sorry, My heater is not for sale. Just explaining the type for anyone not familiar with them.
No, I'm not asking to buy YOUR personal heater. I wondered what brand it was so that if it were still manufactured I could research it as a possible purchase/mod to my trailer.
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Old 01-18-2007, 02:12 PM   #28
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...I've not gone the Olympia catalytic route because I don't have a good spot to mount it. If your unit could be made to fit the space where my Suburban forced air unit is, I'd be on it in a minute.
If the current Suburban is (like mine) the typical fan-forced units in the format current sold as the NT series, I think the search for a fanless unit to fit the space is hopeless. A radiant design would have insufficient radiating area, and likely be facing the wrong way anyway. A natural convection design would need more height for the convective effect (a.k.a. "hot air rises") to work well. I believe that the natural convection furnaces which were sold in some Bolers (not mine, but Chester's I think) are substantially taller.
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