What size plug? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-14-2014, 04:31 PM   #1
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What size plug?

I seriously don't know what I'd do without this forum right now.

I'm going to need a new AC main or plug or whatever it's called for my converter. The old one is sketchy. I can currently plug it into a household extension cord (15amp, correct?) with no adapter because someone replaced the plug part.

So... what size do I need/should get? I would guess 30 because of my converter's main breaker? Just want to confirm before I go buying one.

Is a certain length better than others?


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Old 08-14-2014, 04:54 PM   #2
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There's more to it than breaker size and what plug is on the end. If you truly have a 30 amp main breaker then you should have a 30 amp plug and the proper wire to support the load. 30 amp plug would normally have 10 gauge wire running from the plug to the breaker. A 15 amp breaker would normally have a 12 Gauge cord. There are exceptions to this but most go by common guidelines for short runs. The longer the wire runs the larger wire you will need. There is a whole code book to consult to get the actual needs and proper installation. The cord between the plug and the breaker should be stamped with the wire size on it. 12-3, 12-2, 10-2, 10-3, 14-2, 14-3, first number wire size, 2nd number the number of conductors. While your plugging into a 15 to 20 amp outlet your protected by that outlets breaker even though you have a 30 amp main. The supply breaker should blow protecting your wiring. Where you run into problems is if you go to a campground and plug your 15 amp plug into a 30 amp supply with a common adapter the supply breaker should blow at 30 amps. the breaker in your trailer should blow at 30 amps but with lesser wire size between the 2 the wire will melt before the breakers have a chance to protect you. So it is very important to make sure the wire size between the supply and your 30 amp breaker is capable of carrying the current necessary to have protection from your main and supply breakers.
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:14 PM   #3
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Like Steve said, verify your wire gauge. If it is 8 or 10 you can go ahead and install the standard RV type 30 plug and your wire will be protected. After doing that if you buy a heavy duty 30 to 20 adaptor at the rv store you will then be able to plug into most all hookups you would encounter.
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:43 PM   #4
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I was thinking of using something like this, except longer...
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0095TE...110_SY165_QL70

Will something like that fit the specs you described?


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Old 08-14-2014, 05:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgynm View Post
I can currently plug it into a household extension cord (15amp, correct?) with no adapter because someone replaced the plug part.
It may be original to your trailer.. my '84 scamp has a 15A plug that appears to be original.

Don't assume that you need a 30A cable/plug - unless you plan on running an air conditioner at the same time as a microwave it would be pretty difficult to use more than 15A.
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Old 08-14-2014, 05:49 PM   #6
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If you need to install a 10/3 supply cord it is usually less costly to purchase a 25 ft 30 amp RV extension cord. Cut off the female end of the RV cord and terminate the wires directly in the AC section of your converter . Buying 10 /3 cord by the foot plus a 30 amp male cord cap is usually more expensive . The 10/3 cord should be rated for hard usage due to the fact it is subject to damage from being stepped on while laying on the ground
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:54 PM   #7
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Sounds like a plan. This is what's leaving me to believe I need a new one:
Click image for larger version

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Now imagine the same on the other end. *shudder*

I figured if I was replacing the old converter, then I should probably start fresh with the wiring!

And all I need to run is our cell chargers, a fan, and maybe a mini keurig.


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Old 08-14-2014, 08:18 PM   #8
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The lock nut came loose from the connector and can be reassembled . Some lock nuts have teeth which are designed to bite into the metal enclosure when tightened.The PO may have put the lock nut on backwards which allowed it to vibrate loose . The condition of the cord in the photo looks OK
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:34 PM   #9
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I vote with Steve - redo the lock nut, cinch the connector back down, and you're good to go - unless the other end has a problem, but you could whack that end off and replace the connector for not much $.

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Old 08-14-2014, 11:02 PM   #10
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Don't forget to unplug the power before restoring the lock nut.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:50 AM   #11
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It sure would be nice to have the original post of a subject appear at the top and the responses below it. I'm getting tired of pounding down to see what the original problem was.

There is no posting as to who to bring things up to regarding questions about the site.
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankcfx View Post
It sure would be nice to have the original post of a subject appear at the top and the responses below it. I'm getting tired of pounding down to see what the original problem was.

There is no posting as to who to bring things up to regarding questions about the site.
I just hold down the page up/down buttons to scroll..... No pounding.
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