Which wire is positive? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-24-2012, 09:27 AM   #15
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I agree, in a broad sense, ammonia and propane are refrigerants, but in the world of RV gas refrigerators, (which BTW can't be drained and refilled) at least in Dometic and similar LP powered designs, there is no Freon type refrigerant that can leak out and need recharging.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:56 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLP View Post
............
Another question - assuming proper operation in propane mode, when the fridge or freezer calls for cooling is there a burner of sorts that kicks in and then cuts out when extra cooling is completed? Or, is there always a constant flow of gas and flame and constant cooling?
The gas refrigerators that I have had experience with basically run at one flame level all the time. My current fridge has a hi / med / lo setting for the gas which is manually adjusted to correct for ambient conditions.

If the fridge works on 110 volts, it should work on gas as well, once the burner and chimney are clean.
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:43 PM   #17
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From just looking at the thread title (out of context) it seems that one wire is positive while the others are uncertain at best!

(No idea what that wire is so positive about, but.....)
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:38 PM   #18
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Update - Fridge has been powered by 110V all last night and today with a cup of water in the fridge and one in the freezer. Air temp in the fridge hovered around 3 deg C and freezer around -14 deg C. Of course the freezer water is now ice (was actually frozen over night). This testing has been done with the whole unit sitting on the floor inside the Boler. The outside temp today was 27 deg C so I imagine the inside of the Boler was 30-40 deg C.

Needless to say, the unit is working fine on 110V so this tells me the refrigeration components are working. The problem on propane must be something to do with gas flow, electrics or the boiler tube or ??? I think I will now inspect/remove/clean the boiler section to eliminate that component. Logical thinking??
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:51 PM   #19
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So Far... Good News
But the "Boiler" is a part of the cooling circuit and really can't be removed. It is heated either by one of two different heating elements or the lp flame. I would check out the Dometic Troubleshooting manual. They have good troubleshooting charts for gas problems. I think you may have a HI/LO flame problem., not a boiler problem.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:49 PM   #20
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You are right. I used the wrong term. I was thinking about the tube that runs parallel with the boiler tube. I guess it's a flue for the pilot flame. Another poster made a comment about debris in this area.

Looked at the service manual and may have to beg/borrow/steal a nanometer for testing LP pressures. I am getting the LP from by regulator on the Boler which seems to have worked fine for the original fridge and cooktop but maybe something stupid happened to it just before testing this newer fridge.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:40 PM   #21
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Here is something I just thought of. The only LP line I had for testing is 15 feet long. Could there be to much pressure drop over 15' to effect the operation of the fridge on LP mode?

I just borrowed a different regulator with 2' of line attached and testing again with that.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:48 PM   #22
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Have you checked the burner for spider webs or nests? That generally the cause of a refrigerator not working on propane and working on 120 V.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:08 AM   #23
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Byron - I did blow out the compartment at the burner and took off the burner cover to inspect. It was very clean. I'll also blow out the flue above the burner.

Now have it hooked up to a newer regulator and only 2' of LP line instead of the 15' I was using before. Noticed already the flame is bigger than before and the pipe off the boiler is getting hot like it did on 110V operation. I'll run it this way for the night and check fridge/freezer temps in the AM.

I hope I am not premature in saying this but I think the long LP hose I was using before caused to much pressure drop. Then again the original Boler regulator I was using before may have gone bad, or both situations. I'll replace the regulator anyway because it's 40 years old.

Crossing my fingers (a non diagnostic procedure).
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #24
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Success!! - Using a shorter LP line and different regulator the fridge now works on propane. I suspect the 15' line I was testing with before was the culprit as it produced to much pressure drop.

After running through the night the fridge air temp was 3 deg C and freezer was -19 deg C. Good enough for the girls I go with.

I feel kinda silly now thinking the fridge had malfunctioned when it was actually a testing error by using that long LP hose. Oh well, another lesson learned.

Thank you very much to all who chimed into this thread and offered suggestions. Have a great camping summer.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:39 AM   #25
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Congrats!
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:04 PM   #26
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Congrats on getting the refrigerator working... But I'd bet my money on a bad regulator, not the hose. It may be an old single stage regulator as well. Get a new 2 stage regulator at you local RV supplier, usually less than $30, and you will be good to go for another 20 years..........
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:27 PM   #27
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There was some discussion earlier in the thread about flame operation when the unit was not asking for cooling. Most of the recently made fridges have sort of a two stage flame controller hooked to the thermo. When in cooling mode the main stage is activated and allows for full flame based on your hi-med-lo setting. When not in cooling mode (thermo not requesting cooling that is) the second stage (think idle mode) is engaged, I thing it's really referred to as being in bypass, and the flame is given just enough gas to remain lit and keep the thermocouple open.

Good idea to change out the reg give it's age. Good chance the 15ft hose is close to the same age too the same age so test it on the good reg you borrowed before reinstalling it if you do.

KAR
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:49 PM   #28
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You can easily make a very accurate pressure tester with a length of clear plastic tube and water.


Manometer testing for propane leaks in RV gas system - YouTube
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