Wires Won't Stay in Charge Controller - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2014, 11:45 AM   #15
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18-20 gauge? That sounds like a small wire for a charge controller. You should be using a wire size that is large enough to fit somewhat snug and solder the ends to give it some mechanical strength, and then just tighten it up.

You may want to take a photo or list the model of the controller and tell us what size wire you are using.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:13 PM   #16
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18-20 gauge? That sounds like a small wire for a charge controller. You should be using a wire size that is large enough to fit somewhat snug and solder the ends to give it some mechanical strength, and then just tighten it up.

You may want to take a photo or list the model of the controller and tell us what size wire you are using.
I guess I wasn't clear. I am using 12 gauge from solar panel and 10 gauge to battery. A pin or ferrule for 10-12 gauge is way too big for the hole in the charge controller. Even the pins and ferrules for 18-20 gauge were too big for the hole.

Charge controller is the Renogy 30 amp. I posted a picture earlier in thread.

I am going to try using the crimp pins for Anderson powerpoles.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:24 PM   #17
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pull your controller out and make sure the terminals are opening all the way when inserting the pin connector. A yellow pin connector is pretty much the same diameter as a #14 wire, and it should fit. It sounds like your terminals are not opening all the way. There is a little plate that the screw pushes down on to hold the wire, make sure your wire is below that, you might need to use something to pry it open(back up towards the screw)

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Old 08-04-2014, 03:44 PM   #18
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pull your controller out and make sure the terminals are opening all the way when inserting the pin connector. A yellow pin connector is pretty much the same diameter as a #14 wire, and it should fit. It sounds like your terminals are not opening all the way. There is a little plate that the screw pushes down on to hold the wire, make sure your wire is below that, you might need to use something to pry it open(back up towards the screw)

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The 2 holes with wires are the solar panel. The next 2 holes are for power and they are all the way open. The next 2 aren't used.
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:45 PM   #19
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I would suggest trying to tin (coat with solder) the ends of your wires and see if that helps hold those wires in the charge controller.

Second to that, you can pick up a terminal block at Lowes or Home Depot (like this one) and a bunch of ring or spade connectors, and use that as a go-between as I suggested before. It's what I did with mine because I don't trust the clamp terminals on the charge controller to hold - adding the terminal block makes for a more secure connection since the block itself can be screwed down, so the connections going into the charge controller aren't subjected to any stress or tugging at all.
What gauge wire did you use from terminal block to charge controller?
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Old 08-04-2014, 03:48 PM   #20
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What gauge wire did you use from terminal block to charge controller?
I am using 10g wires for my solar connections, battery connections, as well as my load to the the fuse block, so everything connected my charge controller is 10g.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:21 PM   #21
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I am using 10g wires for my solar connections, battery connections, as well as my load to the the fuse block, so everything connected my charge controller is 10g.
Including from the terminal block to the charge controller?
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:25 PM   #22
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Yes, they are only about 6" apart.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:49 PM   #23
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Yes, they are only about 6" apart.
Are you saying the 6" cables are 10 gauge?
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:12 PM   #24
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Yes... longer 10g wires (from solar, battery, and fuse block) to terminal block, additional 6" length of 10g wires go between the terminal block and charge controller.

I can take pictures later if it's not making sense... but long story short, I had mine originally wired up to a different (very cheap) charge controller that accepted #8 ring terminals, so that's how I originally did my wiring.. the terminal block was my quick solution to not wanting to just cut those ring terminals off. I'm happier with the arrangement though, because any strain on the wires is on the terminal block, not the charge controller.
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:18 PM   #25
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I would imagine that a 30 amp charge controller would require 10 awg or maybe even 8 awg wire. Too small a wire won't stay put.
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:33 PM   #26
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Yes... longer 10g wires (from solar, battery, and fuse block) to terminal block, additional 6" length of 10g wires go between the terminal block and charge controller.

I can take pictures later if it's not making sense... but long story short, I had mine originally wired up to a different (very cheap) charge controller that accepted #8 ring terminals, so that's how I originally did my wiring.. the terminal block was my quick solution to not wanting to just cut those ring terminals off. I'm happier with the arrangement though, because any strain on the wires is on the terminal block, not the charge controller.
I understand, Just wanted to verify that it was 10 gauge from block to charge controller. If I could screw everything down, that would work. I'm working on the closet side of the shower, so I can't screw into the wall.
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:39 PM   #27
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Some 3M VHB tape might hold strong enough
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:39 PM   #28
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I crimped Anderson powerpole pins on the 2 solar panel wires and 2 battery wires. To get them into the holes in the charge controller, I slid them in sideways and then turned them 90 degrees. Screwed down and they seem to be holding real well.



Why powerpole pins? They were the only pins I found that crimped on 10 gauge and fit in the hole.
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