|
|
08-03-2014, 12:32 PM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Wires Won't Stay in Charge Controller
I have a 30 amp Renogy charge controller. Along the top of the box are screws and on the front are holes. You put the solar panel cables and battery cables into the holes in the front and tighten down the screws on top.
I have never been able to get the cables to stay connected to the charge controller. The slightest strain will pull the cables out.
Short of buying a different charge controller, does anyone have any ideas?
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 12:47 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
|
What size wire are you using? I just looked in my 20 amp MPPT Renogy controller and it looks like the screw just bears down on the wire. Better would be a plate that secures the wire that the screw tightens down on. I would suggest doubling the wire back on itself before inserting it in the controller if using a smaller gauge. Maybe even solder the ends of the wires before inserting them.
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:00 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 5,141
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck
I have never been able to get the cables to stay connected to the charge controller. The slightest strain will pull the cables out.
|
Secure the wires near the controller so strain cannot happen.
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:01 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
|
Kellum makes SS cord strain reliefs called Kellum grips which would take the strain off the connections. I'm not sure if they would work in your situation without seeing a picture. I am assuming the charge controller is made in China and comes with international / European standard wire lugs / connections. The connections/wire lugs are smaller than NEMA standard wire connections and use small terminal screws which purposely limit wire size and tightening torque. They are a PITA to work with and the problem you are encountering is not unusual. Seldom is there room in a piece of equipment to change out the lugs to ones that actually work. There are many complaints on the internet about charge controllers that are listed to take #10 AWG wire but only a #12 AWG wire will fit or that the wires fall out.
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:22 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
The solar panel cables are 12 gauge and battery cables are 10 gauge. I just cut a couple of 8" cables using 12 gauge to use instead of the 10 gauge. They seem to fit better in charge controller. These cables connect to a power monitor which connects to the battery cable.
Mounting any kind of strain relief would be almost impossible. The only other option I see is just to lay every thing on the floor.
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:25 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Texas
Posts: 158
|
I used a terminal block with mine and ring connectors - so there is zero strain on the wires going into my charge controller, and nothing can be pulled out of the terminal block.
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:26 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO
Secure the wires near the controller so strain cannot happen.
|
1o gauge battery tray cables are stiff and don't have much flexibility. Plus I am at the 8' length of my battery cables.
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:28 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarahspins
I used a terminal block with mine and ring connectors - so there is zero strain on the wires going into my charge controller, and nothing can be pulled out of the terminal block.
|
What gauge wire going to terminal block and from block to charge controller?
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:29 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timber Wolf
What size wire are you using? I just looked in my 20 amp MPPT Renogy controller and it looks like the screw just bears down on the wire. Better would be a plate that secures the wire that the screw tightens down on. I would suggest doubling the wire back on itself before inserting it in the controller if using a smaller gauge. Maybe even solder the ends of the wires before inserting them.
|
Problem is wire is too big. Renogy claims 10 gauge fits, but mine keeps pulling out. I guess that's how they sell it for $30.
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 01:50 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
|
you can get crimp on connectors called pin connectors that look like this:
They fit much better under the terminal screws, the correct colour for your #10 would be Yellow
Joe
|
|
|
08-03-2014, 02:32 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald
you can get crimp on connectors called pin connectors that look like this:
They fit much better under the terminal screws, the correct colour for your #10 would be Yellow
Joe
|
Is this it?
50 Yellow Insulated Wire Pin Terminal Connectors 12 10 Wire AWG Molex | eBay
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 03:39 AM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
|
I had a similar problem with my charge controller. I soldered the ends of the wire to help it hold together. Another option is to crimp a ferrule on the end if the wire. I would have done that except I didn't have any large gauge ferrules.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 09:09 AM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Spent over 3 hours going store to store trying to find a solution. Went to auto parts, 3 hardware stores, 1 electrical supply house, RV dealer parts department, and radio shack.
The problem is that the terminal pins and ferrules are too big to fit in the holes meant for the wires. Even going with 18-20 gauge pins or ferrules, they won't fit.
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 10:33 AM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Texas
Posts: 158
|
I would suggest trying to tin (coat with solder) the ends of your wires and see if that helps hold those wires in the charge controller.
Second to that, you can pick up a terminal block at Lowes or Home Depot ( like this one) and a bunch of ring or spade connectors, and use that as a go-between as I suggested before. It's what I did with mine because I don't trust the clamp terminals on the charge controller to hold - adding the terminal block makes for a more secure connection since the block itself can be screwed down, so the connections going into the charge controller aren't subjected to any stress or tugging at all.
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 10:45 AM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
|
18-20 gauge? That sounds like a small wire for a charge controller. You should be using a wire size that is large enough to fit somewhat snug and solder the ends to give it some mechanical strength, and then just tighten it up.
You may want to take a photo or list the model of the controller and tell us what size wire you are using.
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 02:13 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor
18-20 gauge? That sounds like a small wire for a charge controller. You should be using a wire size that is large enough to fit somewhat snug and solder the ends to give it some mechanical strength, and then just tighten it up.
You may want to take a photo or list the model of the controller and tell us what size wire you are using.
|
I guess I wasn't clear. I am using 12 gauge from solar panel and 10 gauge to battery. A pin or ferrule for 10-12 gauge is way too big for the hole in the charge controller. Even the pins and ferrules for 18-20 gauge were too big for the hole.
Charge controller is the Renogy 30 amp. I posted a picture earlier in thread.
I am going to try using the crimp pins for Anderson powerpoles.
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 02:24 PM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
Posts: 1,158
|
pull your controller out and make sure the terminals are opening all the way when inserting the pin connector. A yellow pin connector is pretty much the same diameter as a #14 wire, and it should fit. It sounds like your terminals are not opening all the way. There is a little plate that the screw pushes down on to hold the wire, make sure your wire is below that, you might need to use something to pry it open(back up towards the screw)
Joe
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 02:44 PM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald
pull your controller out and make sure the terminals are opening all the way when inserting the pin connector. A yellow pin connector is pretty much the same diameter as a #14 wire, and it should fit. It sounds like your terminals are not opening all the way. There is a little plate that the screw pushes down on to hold the wire, make sure your wire is below that, you might need to use something to pry it open(back up towards the screw)
Joe
|
The 2 holes with wires are the solar panel. The next 2 holes are for power and they are all the way open. The next 2 aren't used.
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 02:45 PM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 852
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by sarahspins
I would suggest trying to tin (coat with solder) the ends of your wires and see if that helps hold those wires in the charge controller.
Second to that, you can pick up a terminal block at Lowes or Home Depot ( like this one) and a bunch of ring or spade connectors, and use that as a go-between as I suggested before. It's what I did with mine because I don't trust the clamp terminals on the charge controller to hold - adding the terminal block makes for a more secure connection since the block itself can be screwed down, so the connections going into the charge controller aren't subjected to any stress or tugging at all.
|
What gauge wire did you use from terminal block to charge controller?
|
|
|
08-04-2014, 02:48 PM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Texas
Posts: 158
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck
What gauge wire did you use from terminal block to charge controller?
|
I am using 10g wires for my solar connections, battery connections, as well as my load to the the fuse block, so everything connected my charge controller is 10g.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|