Wiring/fuse question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-05-2014, 12:23 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=sarahspins;474812]+1 to ALL of these.

"To be honest I would just remove what is there and start over - electrical wiring is really not that difficult to do correctly, "


I was an electrician for over 40 years ,an electrical apprenticeship instructor for 36 years ,an electrical inspector for several years and held both a journeyman and master electricians license. To some wiring may not seem that difficult but after inspecting hundreds of installations and witnessed the unsafe , stupid , things people do I am convinced otherwise .I heard thousands of times from home owners things like " I didn't know " or " Doing it to code costs too much" or " I don" understand the code" or " My buddy at the bar told me to do it that way" I am not saying electrical work is rocket science but it is also a trade that you can NOT learn in 15 minutes by reading WIKI .I spent over 4000 in trade school and 8000 work hours in my apprenticeship to obtain my journeyman license . Your remark just struck me wrong.
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
.... To some wiring may not seem that difficult but after inspecting hundreds of installations and witnessed the unsafe , stupid , things people do I am convinced otherwise .I heard thousands of times from home owners things like " I didn't know " or " Doing it to code costs too much" or " I don" understand the code" or " My buddy at the bar told me to do it that way" I am not saying electrical work is rocket science but it is also a trade that you can NOT learn in 15 minutes by reading WIKI.....
Many of these small trailers are a wiring task within reach of the DIY types, some of whom have spent decades learning from experienced people how to do it right. Or sometimes when the nice inspector red tags their work and they have to do it over. That too is a learning experience on right vs. wrong approach.

It does depend on the individual using good judgment on what they don't know and where they seek advice. Many of these older trailers have electrical work that reflects all the concerns Steve raises about poor DIY workmanship.

I would consider these small trailers to be very basic and minimal wiring. Mine has one outlet and one light running off of a load center. I may add another outlet and will make it a GFI outlet to protect the outlet circuit. I will test. The trailer wires for outside lights and interior 12 volt lights is also petty basic hot and ground wiring from the plug back.

If that last paragraph means nothing to you then you should probably find a mentor to help with the process. If you understand that paragraph then you can probably learn enough to replace it if you use care and are willing to ask questions from reliable sources.

None of us were born knowing how, some of put a lot of effort into becoming experts, some of us just learned as the need arose so we now feel comfortable with more involved tasks in a lot of areas that folks tackle with these FGRV's.

I did my first homeowner electrical work 35 years ago, have done a lot of it since then over the years, industrial and residential. I still asked stepson who is a journeyman (or maybe master now) electrician to go over what I planned on my last project and to give me a pre-inspection before calling the building dept. You know what? He found I was missing a couple of outlets at locations required by code in my initial plan, and had one too many connections for the size of box on the pre-inspection.

Bottom line I can make it pretty good but if I want it done to expert level standards I have to ask the experts. If I don't I will have to accept the lower standard I will meet on my own. And have to accept the possible risk of getting it wrong. Or having a buyer looking at the trailer who does know better telling me why they won't buy it for my asking price.

People should not be afraid to learn and try to do these things, in fact I encourage people to do so, but use some care in where you seek advice and at least understand the risks of getting it wrong.
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:24 PM   #17
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Thank you roger for posting that - I definitely don't consider myself to be an electrician and I don't mean any disservice to the highly qualified electricians out there, but everything about the electrical system in my scamp is well within the scope of what I feel capable of handling. I've done plenty of electrical work in my own home, but there are still some things (such the installation of a transfer switch) that I was quite happy to pay someone else to do. I know my limitations
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Old 08-05-2014, 02:45 PM   #18
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Good thing I didn't show Steve my electrical work when he visited with us last winter, LOL But I did ask him some questions and learned some things.
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:37 AM   #19
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Other than here, I have nobody's brain to pick! One of the joys I guess of having "just a camper" turn into a hobby (or obsession??) !

Anyhoo...
Does the PD4045 automatically do the switching when I plug the Boler into AC power? I currently have to press a rocker switch to go between DC/no power/AC.







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Old 08-06-2014, 06:50 AM   #20
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If you don't want to install a converter I use these panels to clean up 12VDC wiring issues. The name tags you apply to the ckts. are your option. It is also available from other vendors.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:05 AM   #21
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Does the PD4045 automatically do the switching when I plug the Boler into AC power? I currently have to press a rocker switch to go between DC/no power/AC.
Morgyn
1981 13' Boler
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Not only does it do that, it charges your now nearly empty battery(ies)! It also continues to power your 12V stuff as well as any 110V you install.

Ah, the wonders of modern technology eh?

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Old 08-06-2014, 07:14 AM   #22
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PD4045 has twelve fused circuits for 12 volt, that is twelve wires out the back to connect anything 12 volt and a spot on the front to insert fuses (not included). It also has a place for a 110 main breaker and two other breakers to give you 110 power. (breakers not included). And it charges a battery if you have one. We have 12 volt and 110 lights in our camper, some outlets, a dorm fridge, an electric heater, and a fantastic fan No switches on it to go from battery to shore power. Nice unit.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:34 AM   #23
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God bless my father. If I need to order one, he'll pay for the shipping and customs. So a P4045 has been added to my shopping list!

Anything else I'll need to buy for this? If I'm going to need to hire someone, I'd like to be able to have everything ready so it won't take too long. The basics (wires, connectors, ect) I can easily get here.


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Old 08-06-2014, 08:49 AM   #24
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Note that the PD4045 mounts on a vertical surface that you will have to cut a hole in, about 10 or 12 " square with space behind and preferably with some ventilation. I made a couple 2" round holes above and below for air movement. It has a small fan in it for cooling but I've never heard ours run.
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:00 AM   #25
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I was assuming I could put it in the same place the other was in? Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1407333462.193260.jpg
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(My foot is resting on it)

Right below where my calve would be is the battery. Maybe it would be better to put the PD 4045 under the dinette bench next to the battery? Or too dangerous having them that close together?


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Old 08-06-2014, 10:59 AM   #26
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Roger ,I was often asked by friends or acquaintances to inspect or tie in circuits in the breaker panel for work they had performed without a permit. Because I possessed an electrical license if I inspect or work on the wiring they installed ,I can be held legally liable for any errors in the installation . When a homeowner does his own wiring even with a permit ,I again cannot help, instruct ,or assist the homeowner and all the work must be performed by the homeowner only .I also cannot pull a permit and the homeowner pull a permit on the same project .All electrical work in the State of Minnesota requires a permit and must be performed by a licensed electrician working under a master electrician with a electrical contractors license. Risking your license and business to help an untrained person to do his own work makes no sense . I am NOT saying that one cannot or should not wire their own trailer but if you need advice ask a trained person not your buddy from the bar. I did fire calls in St Paul Mn and you would be surprised by the number of fires some fatal caused by homeowner wiring
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Old 08-06-2014, 11:11 AM   #27
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The PD4045 is not as wide as your current opening. see attached for cutout size.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgynm View Post
I was assuming I could put it in the same place the other was in? Attachment 74554
(My foot is resting on it)

Right below where my calve would be is the battery. Maybe it would be better to put the PD 4045 under the dinette bench next to the battery? Or too dangerous having them that close together?


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Old 08-07-2014, 01:45 AM   #28
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I hate to be a disappointment, but I'm with bob. The only way to fix this right is to start over, and if you're doing that, the pd4045 is a very tidy and efficient way of doing it.

Trying to "repair" work like that is usually twice the nightmare of ripping all the electrical out and starting over.

Oh, and do NOT allow the repair people to put those damned wire cutting, wire corroding scotchlocks back in. Those things are a disaster waiting to happen, and should be outlawed. I had to cut off a foot of wiring on every side of them on my trailer before finding good shiny wire again. Everything within a foot of them was corroded. I just ran new wire to everything possible, ac and dc. Bare crimps covered with marine adhesive heatshrink only, IMHO. I ran 4 gauge from the battery to the pd4045, with a 50 amp marine circuit breaker/shutoff switch, and 12 gauge to everything else, dc and ac. Keep in mind rv 12vdc is different than some other stranded wiring. I couldn't find any in wichita, so I ordered it.

If it was me, I would check over the external lighting wiring at the same time and be sure they haven't messed with that. At the least, I would remove all scotchlocks, and put proper crimps in.


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