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Old 08-06-2014, 06:05 AM   #21
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Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morgynm View Post
Does the PD4045 automatically do the switching when I plug the Boler into AC power? I currently have to press a rocker switch to go between DC/no power/AC.
Morgyn
1981 13' Boler
Nova Scotia
Not only does it do that, it charges your now nearly empty battery(ies)! It also continues to power your 12V stuff as well as any 110V you install.

Ah, the wonders of modern technology eh?

Frank
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:14 AM   #22
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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PD4045 has twelve fused circuits for 12 volt, that is twelve wires out the back to connect anything 12 volt and a spot on the front to insert fuses (not included). It also has a place for a 110 main breaker and two other breakers to give you 110 power. (breakers not included). And it charges a battery if you have one. We have 12 volt and 110 lights in our camper, some outlets, a dorm fridge, an electric heater, and a fantastic fan No switches on it to go from battery to shore power. Nice unit.
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Old 08-06-2014, 06:34 AM   #23
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God bless my father. If I need to order one, he'll pay for the shipping and customs. So a P4045 has been added to my shopping list!

Anything else I'll need to buy for this? If I'm going to need to hire someone, I'd like to be able to have everything ready so it won't take too long. The basics (wires, connectors, ect) I can easily get here.


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1981 13' Boler
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:49 AM   #24
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Note that the PD4045 mounts on a vertical surface that you will have to cut a hole in, about 10 or 12 " square with space behind and preferably with some ventilation. I made a couple 2" round holes above and below for air movement. It has a small fan in it for cooling but I've never heard ours run.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:00 AM   #25
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Name: Morgyn
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I was assuming I could put it in the same place the other was in? Click image for larger version

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(My foot is resting on it)

Right below where my calve would be is the battery. Maybe it would be better to put the PD 4045 under the dinette bench next to the battery? Or too dangerous having them that close together?


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1981 13' Boler
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:59 AM   #26
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Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
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Roger ,I was often asked by friends or acquaintances to inspect or tie in circuits in the breaker panel for work they had performed without a permit. Because I possessed an electrical license if I inspect or work on the wiring they installed ,I can be held legally liable for any errors in the installation . When a homeowner does his own wiring even with a permit ,I again cannot help, instruct ,or assist the homeowner and all the work must be performed by the homeowner only .I also cannot pull a permit and the homeowner pull a permit on the same project .All electrical work in the State of Minnesota requires a permit and must be performed by a licensed electrician working under a master electrician with a electrical contractors license. Risking your license and business to help an untrained person to do his own work makes no sense . I am NOT saying that one cannot or should not wire their own trailer but if you need advice ask a trained person not your buddy from the bar. I did fire calls in St Paul Mn and you would be surprised by the number of fires some fatal caused by homeowner wiring
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Old 08-06-2014, 10:11 AM   #27
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The PD4045 is not as wide as your current opening. see attached for cutout size.
Mighty Mini All-In-One System AC/DC Power Distribution Panel and Inteli-Power Converter


Quote:
Originally Posted by morgynm View Post
I was assuming I could put it in the same place the other was in? Attachment 74554
(My foot is resting on it)

Right below where my calve would be is the battery. Maybe it would be better to put the PD 4045 under the dinette bench next to the battery? Or too dangerous having them that close together?


Morgyn
1981 13' Boler
Nova Scotia
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:45 AM   #28
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Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
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I hate to be a disappointment, but I'm with bob. The only way to fix this right is to start over, and if you're doing that, the pd4045 is a very tidy and efficient way of doing it.

Trying to "repair" work like that is usually twice the nightmare of ripping all the electrical out and starting over.

Oh, and do NOT allow the repair people to put those damned wire cutting, wire corroding scotchlocks back in. Those things are a disaster waiting to happen, and should be outlawed. I had to cut off a foot of wiring on every side of them on my trailer before finding good shiny wire again. Everything within a foot of them was corroded. I just ran new wire to everything possible, ac and dc. Bare crimps covered with marine adhesive heatshrink only, IMHO. I ran 4 gauge from the battery to the pd4045, with a 50 amp marine circuit breaker/shutoff switch, and 12 gauge to everything else, dc and ac. Keep in mind rv 12vdc is different than some other stranded wiring. I couldn't find any in wichita, so I ordered it.

If it was me, I would check over the external lighting wiring at the same time and be sure they haven't messed with that. At the least, I would remove all scotchlocks, and put proper crimps in.


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Old 08-07-2014, 01:46 AM   #29
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So what your saying Jared is you don't like scotchlocks
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:31 AM   #30
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Not so much, no. 😒 95% of all my trailer wiring troubles have been a direct result of lazy manufacturers using them instead of the proper product. Heck, even if you think they're working right, they likely aren't. I've brightened the lights on 3 trailers just by getting rid of them. In contrast, I have NEVER had a crimped and adhesive heatshrink connection go bad, and never will. I caught the wiring harness on the car trailer once, snapped every damn wire for the taillights, didn't pull one connection apart.

That being said, I don't advocate $5 crimper/stripper combos, either, but that's a different rant.


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Old 08-07-2014, 04:55 AM   #31
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Trailer: Boler
Ontario
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You should rip all of that old wiring out. Realistically that's beyond repairing in terms of time, effort, cost and safety. I just put a PD-4045 in my Boler and I think it's a great product. Instructions suck so you'll definitely need someone with some know how.


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Old 08-07-2014, 10:56 AM   #32
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Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared J View Post
Oh, and do NOT allow the repair people to put those damned wire cutting, wire corroding scotchlocks back in. Those things are a disaster waiting to happen, and should be outlawed. I had to cut off a foot of wiring on every side of them on my trailer before finding good shiny wire again. Everything within a foot of them was corroded.
This is exactly why my next project on my trailer is removing and replacing the trailer wiring - there are more of those scotchlocks used on the wires than I could easily count, and every single one of the wires is completely corroded. Using those once just starts a chain reaction, and rather than realizing they are the CAUSE of the problem, subsequent repairs use the same connectors, just making things worse (and a big ugly mess when someone starts mixing wire colors with whatever is handy).
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:23 AM   #33
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
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Scotch locks = abomination and tool of the devil. My TV turn signal module was trashed from the wire corrosion of trailer plug being connected using those things.

Mechanic replaced module and used crimp connectors and shrink tube for the wiring.

Unless your doing wiring for your ex mother and law and you really don't like her an awful lot.... just say no!
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