Wiring/fuse question - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-04-2014, 01:33 PM   #1
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Wiring/fuse question

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Is there a way to neaten up this mess of wires so I can use under the front bench for storage?

I'm also worried about this method of having a fuse as my young daughter will be sleeping on the front bench.
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:48 PM   #2
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What you might have to do, at least per most U.S. codes, is put a few "Work Boxes"
to hold a few junctions and relocate everything to a side wall vs. being on the floor.

To be honest, that all looks a bit scary. Do you have an electrician friend that can give you some advice? Might be a good/safe idea.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:04 PM   #3
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That is a real mess. What des that fuse protect? What does your original electric panel look like? For sure that was done by someone with very limited skills. I would go back to the beginning and check everything. By the beginning I mean the power cord and follow thru the whole system. I would look for anything a previous owner added, For sure the wiring in your photo is not factory. Cleaning up the mess should not be too tough for someone with basic electrical knowledge.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:24 PM   #4
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That is a real mess..

Well, it's a step up from tube and spool.

It's hard to tell in the picture, but it looks like one of those 3M connectors is used to splice a 1 1/2 in piece of wire to another wire that has plenty of slack. Hard to tell in that light.

This looks like something fried and the PO or PPO wired this up quick to make a planned trip and.............well...........it didn't fry again, so leave it.
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:35 PM   #5
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Darn! I wish I could come up and give you a hand with that Morgyn. I love Nova Scotia! By the time I could get up there though, you will be done, and a happy camper I bet.

Best of luck to ya.

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Old 08-04-2014, 02:38 PM   #6
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I think you are on the right track if you are planning to move this stuff to own sub compartment so you can use the storage. And I agree with start at the front and try to figure out what they wanted to accomplish so you can do or have it done right.

Maybe it's just me but I don't even see a wire clamp on that box under the makeshift "fuse box". One tug and the connection wires feeding that fuse would be loose.

Never mind an electrician do you know any exorcists?
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:39 PM   #7
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The PO used about 3 times in two years. They bought it over the phone sight unseen. It was being sold "as is" from an rv dealership. I don't have much electrical knowledge other than how to change light fixtures and plug sockets. I can learn though! I'm really new to Boler ownership though so I'm not sure what anything is supposed to look like! Click image for larger version

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That's the back of my panel. It looks the larger wiring that is connected to that odd fuse is for all the 120v plugs.


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Old 08-04-2014, 02:42 PM   #8
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If it helps that silver connecter (is there an inline fuse in there) makes the plug I had the shop vac plugged into go off if jostled.


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Old 08-04-2014, 02:50 PM   #9
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1) Porcelain keyless receptacles are not designed nor UL listed as a fuseholder
2) Edison base fuses are allowed to be used in only very limited applications
Plug fuses if used should be type S to prevent tampering or overfusing
3) Porcelain keyless receptacles are normally rated for 660 watts ( approx 5 amps at 125 VAC) The wattage limit has more to do with the heat generated by an incandescent lamp
4) If the fuseholder is wired with reverse polarity than the screw shell of the fuse becomes a shock hazard
5) It appears the previous owner knew just enough to be dangerous
6) If his/ her exposed electrical work is that sloppy only God knows what he / her did where you can't see it
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Old 08-04-2014, 02:56 PM   #10
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So I need to ask someone for help! Anyone here live in metro HRM and would be willing to have a look? If not, luckily I work in an engineering office at an university.


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Old 08-05-2014, 06:29 AM   #11
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After talking to my Dad, we've decided it would be in my family's best safety interest to hire someone to fix this mess.

I could probably figure it out slowly but I also thought if we hired someone, I could have a new panel/box/thingamajig put in that's more up to date than the original 1980's one. And I could have something roughed in for future solar hookup down the road when I've learned more.


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Old 08-05-2014, 07:35 AM   #12
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After talking to my Dad, we've decided it would be in my family's best safety interest to hire someone to fix this mess.

I could probably figure it out slowly but I also thought if we hired someone, I could have a new panel/box/thingamajig put in that's more up to date than the original 1980's one. And I could have something roughed in for future solar hookup down the road when I've learned more.
I think that is a good plan Morgyn. Yes, put in a new panel/box/thingamajig, and do keep us posted on how you make out!

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Old 08-05-2014, 08:38 AM   #13
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You could also use the opportunity to install a modern Power Chassis/converter/smart charger, such as the Progressive Dynamics PD-4045, and be set for the next 50 or so years.
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
1) Porcelain keyless receptacles are not designed nor UL listed as a fuseholder
2) Edison base fuses are allowed to be used in only very limited applications
Plug fuses if used should be type S to prevent tampering or overfusing
3) Porcelain keyless receptacles are normally rated for 660 watts ( approx 5 amps at 125 VAC) The wattage limit has more to do with the heat generated by an incandescent lamp
4) If the fuseholder is wired with reverse polarity than the screw shell of the fuse becomes a shock hazard
5) It appears the previous owner knew just enough to be dangerous
6) If his/ her exposed electrical work is that sloppy only God knows what he / her did where you can't see it
+1 to ALL of these.

To be honest I would just remove what is there and start over - electrical wiring is really not that difficult to do correctly, and a project on the scale of your boler is an ideal way to learn - because it's small and relatively simple. If you want to hire someone to do it, that's fine too, but I'm just suggesting that there's no need to be afraid of tackling it yourself. You can do it

I had a similar rat's nest of wiring in my trailer on the 12v side (I think just the battery leads had been spliced about a dozen times, and none of it was even still connected to the 12v lights in my trailer - it seems that at some point someone added alligator clips inside the upper kitchen cabinet so a smaller battery could be hooked up) and it was easier to just start over and run fresh wires than to try to "fix" what was already there and deal with corroded wiring and other problems. The 120V AC side was less sketchy looking - my trailer only had one circuit breaker and one outlet to start with. I did replace that outlet since it was worn out and not "gripping" anything plugged in particularly well.
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