Wiring help

[summer scamp]

Originally Posted by RogerDat

Your rainbow of wires if 12 volt would need to be run to one of the fused circuits of the charge controller.

they are the 12 volt wires from the 7 pin plug... you run jumpers of all the wires to 1 fused circuit? just attach jumpers from each of them? is there a spot on to pd4045 to hook each of the colored wires individually? or is there some sort of pigtail harness that comes with the unit to hook everything in?

i guess i need to get the thing in my hands and see it before i start asking more questions... just lookin to understand how this 12 v system all works.

[summer scamp]

Amazon.com: Progressive Dynamics (PD4045KV) Mighty Mini 45 Amp AC/DC Distribution Panel with Built-In Charge Wizard: Automotive

Just to check and make sure this is the correct model??? not sure what the 'KV' in the model number referred to?

[Roy in TO]

The diagrams in post 29 above breaks down your wiring.

• 4 of the 7 pins are used for your tail lights including the ground (-ve)
• 1 is for 12V power (+ve) that can be used for the other 12V devices in your trailer as well as supply power to a battery in the trailer.
• 1 (blue) is used for electric brakes
• The last one varies and is reservered for your choice (usually back up lights), but that can become problematic between tow vehicles that are wired differently.

The PD4045 is a multifunction device:

• Provides branch circuits for your 120V, like the panel in your home
• Includes a battery charger
• provides a 12V panel for branch circuits that can be powered by
  • Your 7 pin connector
  • Your trailer battery
  • 12V from the unit itself when plugged into 120V (the converter portion)

[Steve L.]

I'm sure it's just me, but having the 120v breaker box in behind all those PEX water pipes gives me the willies. PEX is pretty robust but leaks have been known to happen.

But then, I'm a known fear mongerererer.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Steve L.

But then, I'm a known fear mongerererer.

Extra "er-ers" for emphasis, Steve?

[RogerDat]

Originally Posted by summer scamp

they are the 12 volt wires from the 7 pin plug... you run jumpers of all the wires to 1 fused circuit? just attach jumpers from each of them? is there a spot on to pd4045 to hook each of the colored wires individually? or is there some sort of pigtail harness that comes with the unit to hook everything in?

i guess i need to get the thing in my hands and see it before i start asking more questions... just lookin to understand how this 12 v system all works.

Only two wires from your 7 pin plug will have anything to do with your RV 12 volt. The rest are for trailer external tail and marker lights and get power from the tow vehicle when going down the road.

Those two wires from plug going to your RV interior lights, I don't think even hook up to the converter, they would hook to the battery to charge it going down the road.

Two wires from battery into trailer are all that gets hooked in from the tongue. Probably to converter connection marked battery.

Camper stuff such as inside 12 volt lights, furnace blower, water pump draw power from battery on tongue. That "normally" is just 2 wires. Black and White as I recall. You have some extra stuff under the sink, can't comment on that but basically what you are trying to do is...

AC Power shore power to converter

Camper stuff --- pos & neg --- converter ---- battery on tongue

two wires from 7 pin to charge battery from 7 pin
Other wires from 7 pin to trailer marker and tail lights (rainbow of wires).

I kind of stink at explaining this but that converter sits between battery and all the inside camper stuff. Auto switches between drawing from battery on tongue or using AC "converted" to 12 volt.

The rest of the wires are for turn signals and such and are a separate system.

This diagram might help explain the 7 pin wires, which then continue into the camper. 12VDC 7 way Bargman plug wire diagram. - Forest River Forums

[Steve L.]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

Extra "er-ers" for emphasis, Steve?

I must confess to a little mockery directed at the labellers. (not present in this thread tho'.)

[summer scamp]

.... starting to get a clearer picture... thanks for the explanations!

[summer scamp]

So I ordered the pd4045... Will be here Friday.
- I know the breakers don't come with it... Are they normal house breakers or do I need to order ones specific?
- for those that have installed it, did you just replace the breaker box location, relocate it somewhere else, leave your 120 line in same location?
My buddy the electrician will be here Saturday morning so I'd like to have a solid plan maybe even pull some wire or something before then if I can nail down at least where I need to put it

[Bob Miller]

In several cases I have to rewire the ac to the location where I wanted the PD-4045 located.

You will need at least the following breakers: 20 amp main breaker, 10/15 amp duplex breaker for outlets and the converter itself and a 20 amp for A/c if you have it.
They are standard breakers at Home Depot etc.

As a reminder, one breaker (10 amp?) has to be used to control the ac to the converter section. You can get a total of 7 a/c circuits, one Main and three duplex breakers.

Duplex breakers are two breakers in one housing and take up a single breaker slot.

[summer scamp]

Did you keep the old box as a sub panel box, move AC line coming in to the other side so it comes in under front bunk, then run a line back to old box?
Or nix the old box and re run all 120 lines..... It makes me say 'ugh' just typing that...

Doesn't it make sense to have the shore cord on the drivers side???

[steve dunham]

The smallest gauge building wire allowed by the NEC is #14 Awg CU rated at 15 amps IE;14- 2 NM (Romex) The lowest rated standard fixed circuit breaker is rated at 15 amps Art 240-6A --2011 NEC . If you wish to protect your converter at 10 amps you will need to add secondary over current protection (Fuse). 15 and 20 amp single pole circuit breakers are the most common and the least expensive to purchase $2.50 to $5.00 /Ea . Tandem or piggy back circuit breakers are two to five times as expensive as a standard breaker $10 to $25.00 each depending on Mfg. GFCI and AFCI circuit breakers are the most expensive residential breakers . If you wish to have GFCI protection in your trailer ,the use of GFCI receptacles is far less expensive than using GFCI breakers. Having a sub panel in a small fiberglass trailer is not the best practice in my opinion

[Bob Miller]

I would run the shore cable directly to the PD-4045 and the load wires can be rerouted and/or looped through the existing box, using the old box as a junction box.

Any and all Splices/Wirenuts must be inside some sort of work box.

[summer scamp]

Easier way to run wires rather than all the way under and around the entire camper?
Ever go under, maybe run some PVC?
Run along the step up kick plate by the rear bed then under stove cabinet?

[DaMScampers]

I've finally updated and reposted my Scamp Wiring Diagram - complete with interactive links (PDF). It can be found here. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post455679

Possibly it will give you some food for thought.

[summer scamp]

excellent david, thanks!

[DaMScampers]

It really helped me to draw up the wiring, and think of it in a layered approach.

[summer scamp]

agreed....... i have all schematics layed out and sketched on. did you rip out all the wires and rewire it like this or just replace the converter and panel?

[Timber Wolf]

My dos centavos, as deep as you are into your Scamp anyway, would be to take this excellent opportunity to move the power supply cord door to the driver’s side. Just sayin. I know you want to get done and on the road. But instead of just getting back even (to the status quo), I know I would be much happier if my hard work also got me a little ahead of the game by actually “improving” something. The power and water being on the passenger side of my 1988 Scamp 16 bugs irritates me.

[summer scamp]

Exactly my sentiments wolf... Especially with everything I have removed right now. Shore cord will be moving to the drivers side... Now where... It would be easy to have it stored under front drivers side bunk but that's where I want to put the whole unit... Not sure there is room for both things in one compartment?? Guess I could put the unit under front bunk on passenger side but then we lose 2 storage compartments.... Hmmm