Wiring help - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-01-2014, 08:19 AM   #57
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It really helped me to draw up the wiring, and think of it in a layered approach.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:31 AM   #58
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agreed....... i have all schematics layed out and sketched on. did you rip out all the wires and rewire it like this or just replace the converter and panel?
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:23 AM   #59
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My dos centavos, as deep as you are into your Scamp anyway, would be to take this excellent opportunity to move the power supply cord door to the driver’s side. Just sayin. I know you want to get done and on the road. But instead of just getting back even (to the status quo), I know I would be much happier if my hard work also got me a little ahead of the game by actually “improving” something. The power and water being on the passenger side of my 1988 Scamp 16 bugs irritates me.
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:43 AM   #60
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Exactly my sentiments wolf... Especially with everything I have removed right now. Shore cord will be moving to the drivers side... Now where... It would be easy to have it stored under front drivers side bunk but that's where I want to put the whole unit... Not sure there is room for both things in one compartment?? Guess I could put the unit under front bunk on passenger side but then we lose 2 storage compartments.... Hmmm
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:58 AM   #61
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I ripped out a majority of wiring with the exception of wiring behind the kitchenette are and cabinet yes that ran behind the cat fur and on up to the 12v maxxair fan I installed.
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:59 AM   #62
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I also invested in a good amount of Posi-Lock and Posi-tap connectors. They are overly expensive but boy were they a dream to work with!
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:14 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
.....My buddy the electrician will be here Saturday morning so I'd like to have a solid plan maybe even pull some wire or something before then if I can nail down at least where I need to put it
One thing you might do to help speed things up for your buddy. Pull a wire along the wall behind the cabinet from front couch to under sink. Leave it at least twice length required to cover the distance.

This wire becomes a "pull wire" that you can use to pull new wires through that location by taping new wire to pull wire. Because the pull wire is twice the length there is always an end of it available to tape on the next new wire and pull it through.

Set up pull wire(s) through the routes you think wires may need to run around the wall. Sometimes you want to run pull wire in two or more stages, from one point of easy access to the next.

Then when you buddy decides what wire he wants to run where he won't have to waste time on trying to get the new wire run. Just tape on, pull through, and hook up.

When I did commercial work it was common practice to leave the pull wire or pull line in place, never know when one would need to run something else through the same tight spot or long utility route.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:23 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
Did you keep the old box as a sub panel box, move AC line coming in to the other side so it comes in under front bunk, then run a line back to old box?
Or nix the old box and re run all 120 lines..... It makes me say 'ugh' just typing that...

Doesn't it make sense to have the shore cord on the drivers side???
Yup it does but Scamp had the water hook ups and power hook ups on the passenger side for years before switching them to the drivers side. My 92 still has them on the passenger side and with a standard length stock power cord its not presented much of an issue. If you are going to do a lot of fiberglass repair on the outside anyways and repaint the trailer then I would move it - otherwise I would just leave it on the passenger side.

I noticed on another post you are concerned with how to run the wires if you install a new converter. Not sure where you current shore power/breaker box is located but if its like mine its on the wall up high under the kitchen sink area on the passenger side. My stock converter is located inside the rear drivers side hatch. The wires to it are all easily assessable by removing the two rear benches. They are all run inside along the outside edge of the trailer. Having the converter located in the rear hatch is a bit of a pain as it does interfere with the full use of that hatch. If you where to mount it to the face of the hatch rather than as Scamp did on the floor of the hatch that would be better. Having it in that large hatch means one has to be careful not to block the fan on the converter when storing large items in it. Noise of the fan has never been an issue though, in fact I rarely hear the fan - but I do sleep with my head on the other side of the trailer and there are several layers of comfortable bedding (seat foam, memory foam and a thick quilted mattress protector which I suspect helps deaden the sound. If starting from scratch & none of the wiring for the converter was already in that location and if I had the trailer pulled apart for easy rewiring, I would probable look seriously at putting the converter up in one of the front hatches.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:03 AM   #65
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Hmm... Is there a switch for the 12v light over the rear bed/ dinette????
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:31 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by summer scamp View Post
Hmm... Is there a switch for the 12v light over the rear bed/ dinette????
If its the stock Scamp lights there should be a switch right on the light. Post a photo perhaps its been change out.
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:42 AM   #67
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Will do when I get home... It's a giant eyeball looking light
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:18 PM   #68
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Woohoo!Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1399061589.745379.jpg
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ID:	70502Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1399061780.326026.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	113.1 KB
ID:	70503Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1399061808.569090.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	108.1 KB
ID:	70504

And here is the light... No switch???
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:23 PM   #69
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Am I looking at Ensolite on the ceiling there? I thought Scamps were all rat-furred.

Per the light: It looks like one that uses a remote switch. Have you looked around that area for one of those?
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Old 05-02-2014, 03:55 PM   #70
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Well that does look like a fairly old style of light & not one I am familiar with so can't say if it original or not. Hopefully someone with an older Scamp can confirm. Can you run your finger along the ensolite and feel where the wires run to? may be a switch someplace hidden

Your panel sure doesnt look old... new still in the box?

Francesca, Rat fur wasn't used in Scamps until later model years.
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