Wiring problems with trailer lights - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-15-2013, 02:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
No but I do know that when you turn on the vacuum and sit on the toilet seat make sure you can still reach the switch.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:58 AM   #16
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I have built and re-wired many trailers, so I'll let you in on my secret of success. I run a ground wire to every light. It doesn't need to be much - I use 18 gauge white multi-strand wire, and make sure it connects right back through the RV plug to the tow vehicle.

Frank
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:48 AM   #17
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Not mentioned is that SCAMP and many others are somewhat well known for using Scotch-Loc and twist-on caps for connecting wires, esp at where the main trailer cable branches into the trailers wiring.

Best bet there is to get a good compression crimper and start getting rid of the afore mentioned splices and connectors.

FWIW: When I run into a trailer tail light problems I usually just run new wires, it's often faster and it stays fixed.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:50 PM   #18
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Yep, step one of any trailer light problem for me is to remove all those damn scotch locks from the system, either by non insulated crimps and adhesive (marine) heatshrink, or running all new wire. Whenever I get a new used trailer, I run a new harness and led lights right off the bat. I have NEVER seen a factory trailer wiring job done properly.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:34 PM   #19
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Add to that I always get rid of non sealed butt connectors on the exterior of the the camper. I use heat shrink style butt connectors then run heat shrink tubing over the butt connector. The run the harness inside corrugated tubing that is taped up.

Depending on how bad the wiring is it maybe simpler and quicker to install new wiring. But let's see if its a simple bad ground before tearing it all out.

Jason
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