Yet another PD4540 ques version 2

[Patricia D.]

I had not noticed until today that there is an electrical section so I am reposting the thread I had put elsewhere in the hopes of even more feedback from owners who have used this Progressive Dynamics product.
I currently have no electrical in my trailer but I am going to install 12 and 120 v systems shortly. I eventually will be adding solar for most of my needs but want to be able to charge from shore power when it is available and at home.
I am going to buy a PD 4045 and my son, a Journeyman Electrician, will be flying here from BC to install my systems. But he is going to be doing it on the long weekend in July when many stores and certainly automotive and electrical suppliers will be closed.
I am hoping that one (or more) of the forum members who have used this panel and are experienced with electrical installations will kindly suggest other items we might need to do the installation. Even though he can access the online manual ahead of time, there may be quirks unique to the project that are not obvious from the reportedly poor instructions. Being able prepare beforehand would really help.
Thank you in advance.

[John in Michigan]

Hopefully a building supply store (for 110vac hardware) and an automotive supply store (for 12vdc hardware) will be open. For the 110vac circuits, you'll need to determine / purchase:

- 30 amp shore power cord, EDIT: 30 amp RV inlet, 15 amp to 30 amp adapter for connecting at home
- how many outlets wanted and how many separate circuits wanted
- desired rv outlet hardware
- length, gauge and type of wire (12 or 14 gauge multi-strand?) needed for outlet circuits

For the 12vdc circuits, you'll need to determine / purchase:

- battery, bracket
- suitable fuses for fuse panel
- how many separate circuits wanted for lights, propane detector (?), cigarette/usb charger outlet (?), etc
- length, gauge and type of wire (8 or 10 gauge multi-strand?) needed for wire from PD4045 fuse panel to battery
- battery fuse (30 or 40 amp depending of maximum DC load)
- length, gauge and type of wire (14 gauge multi-strand?) needed for DC circuits
- light fixtures, other accessories desired

Also you'll need some appropriate sized splice connectors and ring connectors for the 12vdc circuits. Hard to guess how many and where.

Probably more that I have missed here...

[John in Michigan]

Is the camper already wired with a towing plug and exterior towing lights (brake, turn, marker lights)?? If not, more parts and wire to buy...

[John in Michigan]

Other items to purchase:

- wire bundle covering
- wire tie downs/clamps

[Patricia D.]

Thanks so much, John. This is exactly the concise detailed information I was hoping for. I have the wiring for the lights and the plug. I am working on that wiring on rainy days when I can't work on my nemesis- repairing and painting the exterior.
I read on a post here about RV rated plugs for 120v system. Are these necessary or will residential plugs suffice?

[skpcat]

You will also need a bus bar that will hold the number of 12v circuits you will have, it does not come with the unit, just installed a PD 4135 in our 1973 amerigo. You will also need a main ac power breaker and breakers for each ac circuit you will have. I purchased all but the wire and breakers from Amazon and went to Lowes and an automotive store that were close to my home for the rest.

[skpcat]

My stepfather helped us with the install in our Amerigo and he was able to do all of the technical work and have it ready for us the install all of the plugs/lights/ect in about a day.

[John in Michigan]

Originally Posted by Patricia D.

Thanks so much, John. This is exactly the concise detailed information I was hoping for. I have the wiring for the lights and the plug. I am working on that wiring on rainy days when I can't work on my nemesis- repairing and painting the exterior.
I read on a post here about RV rated plugs for 120v system. Are these necessary or will residential plugs suffice?

Not sure what you mean by "RV rated plugs". You'll need to buy a water tight hull-mounted 30 amp inlet. The 30 amp shore power cord plugs into it. I believe there are two types: locking and non locking. Others can weigh in on preferences.

EDIT: You also need 10 gauge 3-conductor wire to connect the 30 amp inlet to the PD4045 main breaker. Normally the 110vac ground wire coming into the camper is fastened to the metal frame. Also note that the 12vdc common/negative wiring is usually NOT wired to/through the metal frame on a FGRV.

[John in Michigan]

- Battery box

[mary and bob]

Originally Posted by John in Michigan

- Battery box

Vented battery box if the battery is inside the trailer

[Patricia D.]

Originally Posted by skpcat

You will also need a bus bar that will hold the number of 12v circuits you will have, it does not come with the unit, just installed a PD 4135 in our 1973 amerigo. You will also need a main ac power breaker and breakers for each ac circuit you will have. I purchased all but the wire and breakers from Amazon and went to Lowes and an automotive store that were close to my home for the rest.

Is this the type of thing:
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Syste.../dp/B0091VHLW4
If you purchased fuses ahead of time, how did you know which to buy? Thanks

[Patricia D.]

"Also note that the 12vdc common/negative wiring is usually NOT wired to/through the metal frame on a FGRV."
This is the part that has me confused and prompted my original post. I read about the negative (white) wires going back to the charger but could not get a clear idea of what happens then. Is that the point of the busbar or , if not, what happens to those wires?

[John in Michigan]

Typical battery size for your needs particularly if thinking about solar future is group 27 100 amp hour deep cycle

[John in Michigan]

110vac breakers and 12vdc fuses must match your pd4045 manual or label

[John in Michigan]

White wires from 12vdc circuits usually go back to a bus bar located in the pd4045 dist panel near the 12vdc fuses
Not to be confused with 110vac bus bars

[skpcat]

Originally Posted by Patricia D.

Is this the type of thing:
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Syste.../dp/B0091VHLW4
If you purchased fuses ahead of time, how did you know which to buy? Thanks

I purchased a variety pack off Amazon that had a bunch, it was under 10 buck and then for my main fuse I purchased a 5 pack of 40 amp fuses. They are the bigger standard auto fuses. 40 amp may not be the right main power fuse that you will need as the converter you have is a higher amp converter...

[Patricia D.]

This is the battery that I have ordered:
Vmaxtanks Vmaxslr125 AGM Deep Cycle 12v 125ah SLA rechargeable Battery for Use with Pv Solar Panels

I believe that it is sealed so I was not anticipating getting a box. It will be under the passenger bench.
Does the PD4540 have a display that shows the battery charge etc or do I need something else?
Will I need any inline fuses? I have seen them mentioned a lot in various posts.
Yes, I want to do solar but want to focus on the basics at this point.
Thanks again.

[redbarron55]

The PD4045 has all of the DC Buss you will need and they are individually fused, 12 circuits I think.
I also brought in the TV charging line and installed a 20 amp circuit breaker type of "Fuse here.
I also installed a second breaker for my circuit to the macerator pump, but most would not have this anyway.
A buss bar for the ground returns would be handy.
Personally I ran two conductors to each 12 volt load from the PD4045 for the + and the - return to the buss which I isolated from the - battery so that I could install a current shunt there to measure the power consumed and loads on the 12 vdc circuits.
I also tied the solar system that I added to the roof to the TV charge line up front since the wiring is heavy and already run.
This means that the solar also feeds the same buss as the PD4045.

[skpcat]

Originally Posted by John in Michigan

White wires from 12vdc circuits usually go back to a bus bar located in the pd4045 dist panel near the 12vdc fuses
Not to be confused with 110vac bus bars

The Pd4045 doesn't include the bus bar anymore for the white wires, only the black. It was a complaint I saw in the reviews for it apparently it's a new thing, mine didn't not have a bus bar for the white wires that I purchased 2 weeks ago...

[redbarron55]

there is no need for any separate - (White) negative 12 volt since each + 12 volt circuit is individually fused in the PD4045.
The - 12 vdc in my case goes directly the the battery and the line for the negative (-) goes to the current shunt in the negative circuit that goes to chassis ground and the ground buss.
This can be connected without the shunt since this is only for the ability to read power and current in the DC power side.
I also have power meter in the AC side more or less because both are inexpensive and give insight into the trailer power system.
The first picture is for the added shunt the second shows more of the distribution and ground buss before the shunt was added.