2015 Scamp Deluxe Sewage Pipe Breaks - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-28-2015, 10:50 PM   #15
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Name: Floyd
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathy P. View Post
I have been reading this website for over 8 years and also read elsewhere regarding fiberglass molded trailers. It has been an education.

I expect quality control and customers service whether I am buying the most expensive unit or the least expensive.

Doors flying open and sewer pipes falling off, ah, just not something I would want to deal with on a new unit when the manufacturer was aware of the problem to begin with. That just makes sense to me. My choice. Others are free to make their own choices as usual.

Coming from the stick and tin world, I have realized that you encounter a new set of possibilities when switching to the fiberglass molded trailers.

Plan at this point to keep stuffing my trailer fund while continuing to study the possibilities.
Cathy;
I have spent nearly half a century fixing just about everything that breaks or was built with an imperfection.
One thing I know for certain is that every product ever produced has a failure rate... no exceptions.
Another thing is certain as well, there will always be inconsolable customers who will magnify any flaw or failure which occurs.
Like falling in love, you tend to minimize or overlook the flaws in a product to which you are committed.

The fact is... you will buy a flawed product or you will buy no product at all.

Once you choose, make a commitment to your choice to care for it and maintain it. Think of it like the difference between your dream house and a rental property. The dream house will take more of your time and effort to maintain, but you will never know it.

I think Scamp would be a fine choice but you should get a stack of twenty dollar bills equal to the price of your prospect, stack them on your kitchen table alongside a photo of your favorites, then buy the one that you want more than that stack!
You must love it first to see the perfection emerge!


Addendum;
I have a Mustang convertible which has come of age, it is perfect and performs and looks better than new.... less than a block from my house is a Mustang convertible of the same vintage, sadly sitting, blocking the public sidewalk for several years, hardly worth the fuel it would take to haul it off for scrap. I really hope some teenager will find it and watch the perfection emerge once again....If not, a few of its parts will be scavenged and the balance recycled.
These cars were once peers, emerging perfect from the assembly line perhaps on the same day. The real difference was in the eye and the attitude of the buyers.
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Old 06-29-2015, 05:48 AM   #16
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Trailer: Scamp 16' Oak Deluxe Layout A - "Kiwi"
Maryland
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If there was a "Like" button I would have clicked that for your comment!
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:53 AM   #17
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Name: Cathy
Trailer: In the Market
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Thanks, Floyd. I appreciate the time and effort that you put into your post. I studied Marketing some in college and yes, "price versus value" is always in play and I weigh that principle carefully. As I mentioned before, we are on #8 of stick trailers and I worked at New Horizons for 3 years in the office (direct sales of high end 5th wheels) and for me, I am looking for the lesser of the evils, the products that will cause me the least concern. When the same problem comes up, that is where I have the most concern. I also studied quality control.

Scamp is doing well and the used units are so much in demand that I have no chance of getting a used one in my area so I am sure that overall, they are a worthy product. The Deluxe surpasses all others in beauty, the weight comes in lower than others and allows many who couldn't otherwise have a trailer to purchase one and tow with a current vehicle. The Scamps seem to last forever with maintenance. Nothing, absolutely nothing, is maintenance free as we all know here on the forum.

Floyd, I always enjoy your posts and get a lot of info from them. I did not in any way mean to be overly critical of Scamp. All units have their good points and their lesser ones.
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:12 PM   #18
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Update - we got our Scamp back from a local huge-RV dealer who repaired/replaced the broken sewage pipe line and did a very nice job securing it to the frame with metal strips on each side of the valve. They had no problem calling Scamp as directed, who paid for the repair with their credit card. Soon after I posted previously, I wrote Kent Eveland mentioning it would be nice if they had let new owners know of the problem, and I provided the link to this forum/post and inquired/suggested they monitor this for suggestions owners have. I didn't get a reply, but yesterday I sent him an e-mail thanking him for taking care of the repair and he replied right away he was glad it was taken care of. So, the reactive customer service was fine.
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:45 AM   #19
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not surprised...

quite frankly I'm surprised we don't hear about broken drain pipes more often in ALL trailers....so often a run of pipe is a fair horizontal distance...the pipe itself is very brittle and then you add constant vibration during travel...not to mention owners reefing/overtightening caps and valves......

having spent years in the underground utility industry, the above is an absolute "torture test" of the product being used....it's just the WRONG application period. In many instances in the trade, either because of code rules or simply "best practice" considerations a flexible coupling is used SOMEWHERE in the system where shear forces will/could be the greatest (insurance against failure).........yet all trailer builders continue to just use brittle house plumbing parts and just glue the whole mess together with no flex/vibration damping element at all......just don't make sense to me...other than the fact it's the cheapest way to go
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:03 PM   #20
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
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Most "house plumbing" is pretty tough stuff. Here in so Cal we use ABS sewer pipe or DWV. It is typically very tough, and can handle quite a bit of abuse. Back in the 1970's there were some ABS manufacturers that used some bad chemistry which produced very brittle pipe that had many failures. I can see a company like Eveland using ABS without support in that application successfully for many years, and then get a bad batch that just didn't have the properties to stand up. We saw just that scenario in the building industry. PVC is another commonly used plastic. It also is very tough and will work when stressed to a degree. It can be used for patio furniture for example. Some areas approve PVC for DWV use. I would question the pipe before blaming the lack of support for the failure since it has worked for the last 45 years. Adding support is a good idea, but check the pipe and cement.
Russ
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:56 AM   #21
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Repair has held up fine

Repair has held up fine for almost a year now.
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:23 PM   #22
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Primer /Cleaner

When we first started using PVC conduit for traffic signals and street lighting , we often had glued joints pull apart. We soon discovered that you needed to use cleaner / primer before attempting to make a glue joint . Most codes now require the use of a purple / colored primer so the inspector can visually tell that the joint was primed.
Looking at the DWV piping in my and others trailers , I have never seem any indication that the joints were primed / cleaned before gluing.
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Old 05-09-2016, 07:16 PM   #23
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You can now purchase Primer without coloring should you have a project that you do not want to ugly up with the purple dye.

I also use Cleaner B 4. Using the clear primer and glue.
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:40 AM   #24
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
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Yes it is important to break the gloss on PVC pipe before gluing. The fittings are very glossy. Before they sold the purple primer we used MEK to etch the gloss. It takes about 30 seconds of swirling with a wet dauber brush to break down the shine. The pipe will clean faster due to a more porous surface.
Another hint is to apply cement to the socket first, and then do the spigot. The cement does not dry as fast inside the socket due to the concentrated fumes. This give you more time to work, which is critical on large sized pipe on warm days.
Work fast and push the pieces together until hitting bottom, and quickly give the part a quarter turn. If the part requires orientation, plan your quarter turn accordingly.
If done like above it will never leak, and won't fall apart.
If assembling ABS Black pipe you omit the primer, as the cement has adequate solvent to etch the pipe. You have to be quick to get your quarter turn with this stuff as it goes off fast!
Russ
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:01 PM   #25
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I preassemble the parts ( Pipe - Fittings) . When I have the parts in the proper alignment , I put alignment marks on the fitting and the pipe with a permanent magic marker. Take the pieces apart , clean and glue the joint and twist until the marks are lined up .
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