Bigfoot sewer and water - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-21-2016, 04:57 PM   #71
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Depends on which one you buy, I guess. Or are we talking about different things?


Ok, so, back to the other question. The dump station had a spigot, with a hose attached, right there, 10' from the sewage openings. It's the hose the motorhome guy was about to fill his fresh water tank with before I stopped him. Was I wrong to pull that hose into my camper to flush fresh water into the toilet and grey water tank?
Sounds like you are thinking of the backflusher that just fits between your dump hose and the bayonet fitting. I don't have personal experience with those but I've read on several forums that they don't work very well. There's another kind that mounts in the sidewall of the black tank and is a fairly major install.

Regarding the hose at the dump station, if they did not have a prominent sign that stated whether or not is was potable water, that's very irresponsible, but either way it would serve well for rinsing your waste tanks as long as it was kept isolated from the fresh water system.

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Old 04-21-2016, 06:21 PM   #72
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Great. No there was a big sign on the side of the building that said there's a fresh water spigot around back, and that you should use your own hose, and if there is for some reason a hose already attached, use at your own risk.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:59 PM   #73
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I do not see how campgrounds would have two kinds of "clean" water, one potable, one not.

The way I see it, it is the same water at the dump station, but marking it NON-potable makes people stop and not use that spigot and hose to fill fresh water tanks. The potable water 25 feet away, or around the corner, is where you want to fill water bladders or your fresh water tanks, because the immediate area is clean.

After dumping the BW we fill the bowl with some water, flush and dump it again. Then connect to grey water, dump that and hose the area clean. While the water is in full flow through the slinky, I give it a few waves up and down to avoid any stagnation.
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Old 04-21-2016, 08:20 PM   #74
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I think you may be right at many sites. But most campgrounds get their water from a well and I can see if the water requires treatment to be top drinking quality it would make sense to run some lines without the treatment where possible.

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Old 04-21-2016, 09:19 PM   #75
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My guess is that both water spigots come from the same source. They just have the other spigot for exactly the reason you mentioned: it's far from the splatter zone. Not sure why anyone would want to fill using that dump site hose but that motorhome guy was more than happy to...

They very clearly had the one spigot for cleanup, with a hose which was obviously not the white drinking-water-safe-type, and another spigot around back for drinking water.

Sorry I'm clearly not explaining this very well since this has been a confusing thread!
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Old 10-17-2016, 12:36 PM   #76
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If there is water in your fresh tank as soon as you turn on the water pump it will fill your hot water tank from the water in the fresh tank or if your hooked up to City water the tank with automatically fill (assuming you have no bypass values stopping it from doing that).

If all your water supply is completely empty and your filling the hot water tank your best to go outside and open the relief valve in the outside hot water tank hatch. Once the water starts to flow fully out of the valve, the hot water tank is full. The danger of not doing that is that you run the risk of ending up with a hot water tank half full of air . With lots of air in the hot water tank, when you turn the tap on it will put a lot of pressure on the old inside plumping causing pipe/connections as it burps/spits out all the air.
I think if you leave the hot water taps open, any air in the tank will escape as the water flows in, no need to open the pressure release valve.
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