Fridge...used vs new - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-01-2015, 06:50 PM   #43
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Place a shallow Tupperware dish (or an ice cube tray) in the freezer compartment. From a warm-started refrigerator I would say in about 3 hours you should see it half frozen...in 6 completely frozen. Then you know things are working. To speed up the process, some people put frozen cold packs in there. I just leave my running even when i am going down the road (which is frowned upon!).
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:06 PM   #44
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OK. The RM2193 in the Little Joe doesn't have a freezer compartment, but if the ambient temp isn't above 90 degrees F you can turn the whole thing into a freezer compartment.

For efficiency I look for a delta of at least 40 degrees F below ambient. Except when it's 90 plus I run about 50-53 degrees below ambient.

I run the road with mine on propane, with proper precautions at filling stations of course.

I am getting ready to make a foam dam that will fit inside the door at the bottom, so when I open the door all my cold air doesn't dump. I'll keep the colder things down there and not loose all the cold when I reach inside for an IPA.
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:58 PM   #45
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OK. The RM2193 in the Little Joe doesn't have a freezer compartment, but if the ambient temp isn't above 90 degrees F you can turn the whole thing into a freezer compartment.

For efficiency I look for a delta of at least 40 degrees F below ambient. Except when it's 90 plus I run about 50-53 degrees below ambient.

I run the road with mine on propane, with proper precautions at filling stations of course.

I am getting ready to make a foam dam that will fit inside the door at the bottom, so when I open the door all my cold air doesn't dump. I'll keep the colder things down there and not loose all the cold when I reach inside for an IPA.
In the last week there were posts on escapeforum.org for a product that uses vertical vinyl strips across fridge as a partition you could reach through to get stuff out of the fridge without losing all the cold. Old method from produce warehousing so fork lifts could drive thru, adapted to small fridge use. Pretty cheap (<$30) as I recall.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:21 PM   #46
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One of the advantages of the compressor portable fridge that we used on our sailboat was that it was a chest style with top opening lid; very little loss of cold when you opened it. You can improve the efficiency of a front opening fridge by keeping it full, even if you have to add stuff such as extra juice boxes, beer etc. Simply put, the less empty space and air in the fridge, the less cold you lose when you open it, and less warm air replaces the cold air. Also, filling the fridge with pre-chilled juice boxes from home will help the cause.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:53 PM   #47
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Unless, of course, it uses 12V for the control circuit.
Agreed. Those control units are pretty hungry from my understanding. Don't have one, no battery required for my propane fridge.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:16 AM   #48
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Another thing about old vs new fridges: If it's the usual ammonia absorption type, the refrigeration technology hasn't changed since about 1960.

This is not to say that there haven't been some improvements since then, most noticeably in the fridge's response to being off-level in propane mode, but there's not a lot to choose between the cooling capacity of a 1985 or 1990 fridge and a current model. They haven't gotten more efficient, but they have gotten more complex. I happen to like very much that my RM2201 is completely manual and uses no 12V power at all unless I want it to.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:54 AM   #49
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I happen to like very much that my RM2201 is completely manual and uses no 12V power at all unless I want it to.
I could not agree more.
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