Hot Water problems on shake out trip - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-02-2003, 08:51 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Oops

Even though my unit looks exactly like a Suburban, I just realized that it is not. It is an ancient Mor-Flo. Perhaps you do not have a drain on the front like I do.

I will be checking into that when I get my new water heater.
__________________

__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2003, 10:30 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Hi All
I don't have a wing nut on mine but I know what suz means.On mine I have what looks like a hose connection.Its at bottom just below and behind big red dial/Heat controll.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3edb6d58b9f8dhot1.jpg/>

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3edb6d6f86794hot2.jpg/>
__________________

__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2003, 11:06 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Location

Thanks for the picture, Ches.

As I said, now I am sure that mine is different. Maybe with your picture I can explain.

The white arrow shows where my drain is. It is in the middle of that dark circle up against the heater wall.

<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3edb7596c1a73cheswaterheater.jpg/>
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2003, 09:07 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
:wave
Wow! What a really nice bunch of folks.
Thanks especially for the nice photos and diagram.

I pulled the anode this evening. It actually came out pretty easy with the correct socket and big 1/2" ratchet.

A lot of white sediment came out in chunks. The stuff looks like some sort of calcium salt. It isn't hard; it is soft and would be the perfect stuff to clog a valve. I think the sediment would have filled a coffee cup maybe more.

I stuck a hose nozzle in the hole the anode came out of and washed out the tank as well as I could from there.

I hooked up the water again and the tank will still not fill - so I will check out the check valve, lines, and faucets this weekend.

Thanks again for the help. This is a great forum!
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2003, 12:40 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
If you had that much soft sediment in the tank, you may even have a blockage at the faucets themselves. The water passages in the faucets are pretty small - 1/4" maybe, and a chunk of gunk could easily block them. The cold would still run fine. If you have an air compressor, you may want to blow out all the lines.

Also, you should have a sediment trap located right after the water pump in you system. This will stop junk from getting into the system. But, water heaters create their own junk by distilling the minerals that are present in hard water. Once you get it working, you might want to put a second sediment trap in the system, on the main hot water line leaving the heater.
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2003, 08:03 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
I am wondering.........
Will the check valve keep me from blowing out the system with low power air?

Isn't the check valve there to prevent anything from being sucked back into the water system?

I sure as heck will give it a try this weekend.
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2003, 08:11 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Water Heater

This is a good reason to drain the water heater every so often. Some of the stuff should come out each time it is drained, if there is any in it. I use to drain after every trip but have been skipping it lately.

I am going to start draining after every trip again. Haven't had any trouble and don't want any.
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2003, 08:22 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
check valve

Mark:

If you're using the city water inlet to apply air pressure, it'll go thru the (city) cold water line, thru the check valve and thru the hot water tank. Depending on whether the anode is removed, it'll blow thru the check valve on the outlet and on to the hot water faucet. To 'blow out' the hot water tank, all the cold water faucets need to be off. There's also a check valve on this side of the 12v water pump. Ya can't 'blow' past this check valve to the pump or fresh water tank.

Air pressure applied at the fresh water tank won't do any good.
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2003, 10:08 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
:wave
I couldn't resist spending a little time working on the system this evening.

I put a low pressure air line on the hot water line from the faucet. I blew the junk down the line and everything worked fine for a few minutes. then no flow. Tried it a few more times with the same result. What ever the blockage is, I haven't really cleared it yet.

I went ahead and pulled the bench so I could get to the tank and lines.

I think I have narrowed down the blockage to the hot water tank outlet. (top of the tank)

I noticed the lines are attached with metal bands that don't look that easy to remove. Any suggestions before I attempt to remove the line from the top of the hot water tank? I don't want to create more problems than I fix ;)

Suz, how did you get your lines loose for your plumbing job?

Thanks
Mark
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2003, 06:58 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Casita uses a PEX plumbing system. In my Casita the tubing is 1/2 inch ID, 5/8 inch OD PEX. The tubing is held on PEX fittings with copper rings that are crimped on with a pricey PEX tool. I found the most varied selection of retail PEX product in my area a Lowes. I didn't ask if I could rent the tool.

Others may know if a normal hose clamp would work on PEX. I'm inclined to be pessimistic, but I don't have first hand knowledge.

Sounds like you're narrowing in on it. The hot water line and/or the the hot water outlet on the tank does seem like the culprit.
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2003, 08:24 AM   #25
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Plumbing Patches

Mark,

I cut it off with PVC cutters. Let me explain why.

Right after I got my trailer I discovered a small leak near the city water inlet. I went through all the pain, agony, and research so hopefully you won't have to...Just kidding. Being dramatic here. I did look at all my options, talked to a bunch of RV people, and this is what I came up with. The repairs I made a year ago have held up great, So that is what I used when I did my bypass and re-plumbed some of the lines.

Suz's plumbing

You can get the QEST pipe at any home store, but I do not recommend using those huge gray fittings. The ones that work the best are the white ones that you see in the picture in my plumbing link.

This is important: The trick to getting the compression fittings to work properly is a hairdryer. A regular 110 one. The 12v just doesn't cut it. Heat the line, then force it onto the fitting. Once it is securely flat against the coupler, screw the couple together. Don't forget to have the screw cap on the line before you fit them togeter. It'll sqeak as you tighten it down. Once there, you are good to go.

Going into the water pump, there is a different type of fitting. It is a female fitting with a built in rubber washer. This screws on over the male fitting.

Once you get the hang of it, this stuff is super easy to work with. But more importantly, it holds up. I assume that if the repair I made right by the city water inlet will hold, then so will the others.

The nice thing about it is that you just cut off the gray pipe (I use PVC cutters) and splice it with a coupler/compression fitting.

If you look closely at some of the pictures in the link, I think you'll be able t see where I peiced it together. I went ahead and replace most in that area.

Hope this helps.
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2003, 08:00 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
I removed the top fitting on the water tank not much to see. There is some kind of valve in the tank. I cleaned out what I could get to.

I used a compression fitting to replace the PEX fitting and crimp ring as Suz suggested. The hair dryer trick worked great, and I got a good seal.

I thought I had the blockage cleared. Eventually the flow slowed to about of what I am getting out of the cold side. There is some calcium in the tank I can't wash out.

I am thinking of using a few gallons of vinegar as acid wash for the tank. If I can dissolve the calcium that is left in the tank, I think I can clear this problem up. My thought is that I can use baking soda to sweeten up the tank after the treatment.

Anyone ever try vinegar in the tank? :conf
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2003, 09:23 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Problem

Mark,

Since you have already cut the output line on the tank it would be easy to connect a water hose to it and run water backward through the tank. With the drain plug open, maybe you could flush out more of the calcium.

Then you could reverse the flow of water and run it through a short water hose out on the ground.

Going through this procedure several times may clean it out.

If the above doesn't work I would drain the tank, replace the drain plug, then pour a bottle of lime away in the top of the heater. Let it sit for about an hour then fill it up. Let it sit for another hour or so and then flush it again using the same procedure as before.

This should clean it pretty good. I would run some chlorine through the system when I was finished to clean things up.


Everyone,

I brought the Casita home yesterday and drained the hotwater heater. It is only 3 1/3 months old and hadn't been drained before. When I took the plug out a lot of calcium came out. I still can't believe the amount that came out. There was probably 1/2 cup mixed in with the water. And this water didn't come from a well. It came from the County water system.

On my old trailer I had always kept it empty when not used and never had any calcium come out of it. From now on I will drain it everytime I return from a trip before it is put in storage.

Make sure you check your water heater NOW!
__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2003, 10:12 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18,870
Ron,
Good ideas - I will add them to my plan of attack.
I especially like the idea of nuking it with LimeAway.

I found this link:

http://www.trailerlife.com/forums/index.cf.../Yes/page/1.cfm

Calcium in the hot water heater seems to be a common problem.
Thanks much!
__________________

__________________
Legacy Posts is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ontario shake up Edward Shook General Chat 3 06-24-2010 09:37 AM
Shake Down Cruise Adrian W General Chat 5 05-08-2009 02:37 PM
Problem No. 2 from shake down weekend Peggy Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 8 07-05-2007 03:43 PM
Problem No. 1 from shake down weekend Peggy Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 13 07-03-2007 09:03 PM
hot water heater problems Lou & Lora E. Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 1 12-30-2005 07:00 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.