Leaking below the bathroom - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-10-2014, 11:07 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
Chris
If the leak is between the bowl and tank you may fix it by tightening the four nuts that hold the bowl to the tank.
Eddie
I had to do that on mine once.

The other item I had replace this summer was the the ball inside the flush valve. It disintegrated with age and plugged the valve up. Was able to just take the valve apart clean out all the little pieces of plastic left over from the ball falling apart and replaced the ball - was less than a $3 part.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:12 PM   #16
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Forgot to add, that the RV place did a pressure test with air to see where the leak was. That's how they pinpointed the flush valve.
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:20 PM   #17
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:20 PM   #18
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This is what is going on underneath!
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:05 PM   #19
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Chris it looks to me as though its leaking at the through hull fitting at the bottom of the tank. Seal bad or its not set tight enough. Could be wrong through it could be leaking elsewhere and the water is getting under the tank. I would test it with the trailer level - flush the tank a few times and see if you can see the water leaking from anyplace else. If not leaking elsewhere check the link I provided for a manual and lift the toilet and tank out to see whats going on.... may just be the seal.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:02 PM   #20
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OR, you might need to remove the gate and remove the "J" PVC, it should just screw into the bottom of the tank. But, you may not be able to unscrew it if the gate is in the way of the frame.
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:29 AM   #21
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Chris, There's some great advise in this thread, and just think about all the $$ you are saving if you fix this yourself! Most RV places will charge you $75 minimum just to take the camper in to find the leak.

Good luck on the repair, You can do this!

....and never, never use that nasty silly-cone on your trailer.
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:52 AM   #22
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:-) thanks all!!!
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:14 AM   #23
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Looks to me like you have some serious floor damage that will need repair as well. Might as well just plan on pulling the whole thing out and finding out where the leak starts before putting it back together.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:37 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
OR, you might need to remove the gate and remove the "J" PVC, it should just screw into the bottom of the tank. But, you may not be able to unscrew it if the gate is in the way of the frame.
If you end up having to remove the gate - while you have it off clean it all up. Over time the blade and the part of the gate it slides into can get a little clogged up and cleaning it all up helps in getting a nice easy & tight closing of the gate.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:34 PM   #25
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What is the "gate"??
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:35 PM   #26
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The gate is the thing you pull under the trailer in order to empty the black water tank. Also known as a sewer Termination Valve
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:26 PM   #27
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I've been on the road and just got back home and have not been keeping up with this thread. The white caulking around the drain pipe is not normal. You should be looking at wax from the wax seal or you should be able to see where the pipe is screwed into the tank. If someone has placed calking there it is trapping the water and as you see it is damaging the floor.
First clean all the junk from around the pipe and wood and you should be able to see where the leak is coming from. As you can see from the picture the 90 deg. fitting is glued to the pipe that is screwed into the tank. You can not unscrew the pipe to re-seal threaded pipe if that is where the leak is because the frame rail will not allow you to unscrew the pipe. That is why you have to cut the 90 deg. fitting to get the threaded piece out. You will need to order all the plumbing from the tank to the gate valve because it is all glued together.
A little weeping leak from the threaded drain pipe is usually not a big issue since it just runs down the pipe but once you seal it at the floor with calking the water starts to rot the floor. This is a case where the attempted repair of calking the pipe could be causing more damage than the leak itself.
To find a leaking tank to pipe fitting you have to have water covering the bottom of the tank. The first qt. or two of water just lives in the pipe below the pipe connection.

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Old 03-13-2014, 03:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
As you can see from the picture the 90 deg. fitting is glued to the pipe that is screwed into the tank. You can not unscrew the pipe to re-seal threaded pipe if that is where the leak is because the frame rail will not allow you to unscrew the pipe. That is why you have to cut the 90 deg. fitting to get the threaded piece out. You will need to order all the plumbing from the tank to the gate valve because it is all glued together.

Eddie
I'm confused, if you have to cut the pipe to get the old one out, how can you possibly put a new one in if it's all glued together? Inquiring minds want to know.
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