Need help with anti-freeze flush for Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-13-2012, 10:17 PM   #15
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Talking A Silly Question

You are using the 'pink stuff' are you not?

This is why we put 2 gallons in our water tank, ran a/f through the whole system and now only carry gallon jugs of water. We don't use the plumbing in the rig at all except for the sink drain. (we use a porta potty.)
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:35 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Orcus79 View Post
Suprisingly, most trailers, classic and modern, don't have a bypass as far as my limited observation has shown, it is indeed an option on some makes. So not having one wouldn't be out of the question.
Mine does not have a bypass. Given that, how should I handle flushing my hot water theater. The way the manual describes it, it makes it sound like if I drain it (with the exterior valve), and then don't turn on hot water, then I am fine. Does this seem reasonable?

thanks
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:49 PM   #17
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Just flushing out the tank or actually winterizing and draining it? Either way you want to turn the gas off to it and or the electric element so it doesn't start heating.

If you are winterizing, leave the water valves open and drain it using the out side drain on the hot water tank and the low level drain on the water supply. When empty close the low drain and leave the hot water tank drain open. Close any valves at the hot water tank as well. Then what you do is start filling the lines with the RV antifreeze leaving the sink taps open, hot and cold. This will allow the antifreeze to back flush through the hot water lines.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:17 PM   #18
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Scamp winterize video

Hi All,

Take a look at this:

http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals...interizing.swf

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-16-2012, 10:52 PM   #19
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Question???

Before there was chemical antifreeze for RV water systems a schrader valve was installed. The water was blown out of the system with pressure and tank drained. That seemed to work for 30+ years. Now we seem to need to buy this pink stuff, pump it through the system and then attempt to clear it out in the spring.
Why doesn't the blowing out the system work any more?
Why does an inch of water in the bottom of the fresh water tank matter if it freezes?
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:01 PM   #20
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Well Byron, sadly some people are lucky they can do the anti freeze... That is an interesting point though about just blowing out the lines with pressurized air.

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Old 12-16-2012, 11:17 PM   #21
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I blow out everything with compressor attached to a combo hose thread/quick disconnect (air barb) on the city water inlet. 40psi max and always a faucet, flush valve or petcock open somewhere. I also pull the sacrificial anode from the water heater and flush and drain. Last I add 1 cup rv antifreeze to sink and shower traps.

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Old 12-16-2012, 11:32 PM   #22
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Well Jack, thats another thing they should add to the weatherizing video... the zinc!
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:24 PM   #23
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Well Byron, sadly some people are lucky they can do the anti freeze... That is an interesting point though about just blowing out the lines with pressurized air.

deryk

That was done for years. Many people that have mountain cabins do the same thing with air.
I actually like my method the best, I simply move my trailer to a warmer climate. Since I have to with it I might as well take it some place interesting and enjoy the warmth too. From the PNW (Pacific North Wet) Death Valley is a good place to start. Then on to points south. I'm sure the trailer loves not having to drink that pink stuff.
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Old 12-17-2012, 12:48 PM   #24
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Unless you're Satchmo, you do NEED a compressor for blowing out water lines. You don't have to own one, just have access to one. Or, conversely, you NEED RV antifreeze. Or you can get away with a good bit by living in a temperate climate. Choices, choices.

You can't even assume that a trailer with leaks hasn't been winterized. More flush valves on cheap Valterra commodes have cracked while being installed than ever cracked from icing. Right you are, Derek, need to get the anode out of the hot water tank before it gets crusty and you can't. That means once a year at least and going into mothballs is as good a time as any.

jack
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Old 12-17-2012, 01:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit View Post
Unless you're Satchmo, you do NEED a compressor for blowing out water lines. You don't have to own one, just have access to one. Or, conversely, you NEED RV antifreeze. Or you can get away with a good bit by living in a temperate climate. Choices, choices.

You can't even assume that a trailer with leaks hasn't been winterized. More flush valves on cheap Valterra commodes have cracked while being installed than ever cracked from icing. Right you are, Derek, need to get the anode out of the hot water tank before it gets crusty and you can't. That means once a year at least and going into mothballs is as good a time as any.

jack

There aint no anode in my teapot.
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Old 12-17-2012, 02:43 PM   #26
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Where did I put the spare warp drive?

Less IS more except on days when it's more or less less. We use a teapot for making hot water for tea and coffee and, in a dry camp, heat the warsh worter on the stove also. I used to run buck naked thru the woods trying to catch grinnies with my teeth. Now I wear a belt and suspenders and am happy with some redundancy in the domestic economy.

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Old 10-09-2013, 08:12 PM   #27
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I know this is an old thread but I have a compressor question. My compressor has two dials, one for tank and one for outlet. Both will go up if dial is turned on the outlet one. Ok, mine goes way past the 40psi so I stopped my compressor once it got up there to 40 psi, Nothing came out of any outlet except a little in the shower hose. Have I used my compressor right?
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:46 PM   #28
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Are you getting air out of each faucet? Keep all the faucets closed except one then plug in the compressor hose. If your compressor has pressure you will hear the air come out of the faucet. Only do one at a time it will give you more pressure to evacuate the water in each faucet.
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