Noisy water pump

[Per Walthinsen]

Our trailer came with a SHURFlo water pump, base model. Sounded awful. Replaced it with a Whisper King. Sounded awful, then died. Replaced it with an Aquatec variable speed premium model. Sounds a little less awful, but unacceptable to me. (There is not supposed to be an accumulator mounted with this one.)

Mounted it by the book, purged of all the air, nothing helps. Question: has anyone experimented with various means of mounting these things and found serious differences in how it worked? Mine is mounted on a solidly built platform, but it is attached to the plywood support for the water heater. It has the intake and output flexible hoses to dampen vibrations. I don't really know if most of the banging comes through the mounting or the hoses or is transmitted through the water pulsations.

I'm thinking I have to make a platform which is attached to the floor ONLY, since that may be the most solid support and might not set up vibrations in the rest of the structure. A platform made up of 2-4 dissimilar materials (wood, hard rubber, dense foam underlayment, whatever is available). This might filter out the banging I'm guessing.

Another plan would put the pump under, in front of, or far behind the trailer on an outrigger.

It really shouldn't be this difficult. Anyone had serious experience with this?

[Frederick L. Simson]

I had the same concern about the noise. Thank you for spending money so I don't have to.

[Brian B-P]

I don't know how much noise we're talking about here, but I find our stock single-speed Shurflo (with no accumulator) quite noisy. The lines are somewhat flexible (rubber hose input and solid plastic tubing output) and have long runs to any other devices, because the pump is under the rear gaucho, quite a distance (in piping length) from both kitchen and bath. It is screwed directly to the floor (plywood only in our Boler), which seems like a bad plan. I have not tried more vibration isolation, but I know this floor mount is certainly not perfect.

We might be talking about different noises, because I don't think of it as a "banging" so much as a just a loud continuous mechanical noise, which is especially annoying when it cycles on an off to match low-flow conditions.

[Pete Dumbleton]

One quick-fix that comes to mind is to get long NYLON screws to hold it to the floor and put a spring or some foam material on the shaft of each screw between the floor and pump body.

Or use thinner steel screws and put some rubber around the screw where it touches the pump body and more between body and floor or whatever the pump's screwed to.

[Kurt & Ann K.]

Per,
How about some soft rubber motor mounts? You might try the style which has a rubber "biscuit" in the center with a stud welded to the center of a washer on each side. Depending on the pump mounts, I'd think 2 or four of the rubber mounts should quiet things down. I'm not sure how warm an operating pump gets, but another possibility might be to enclose the pump in a sound insulated box. To quiet a horizontal furnace in a home, they are often hung using 8 mounts. It must be done so the weight is not trying to pull the mounts apart. The brackets should be fashioned so that the mounts are compressing. They can become rather elaborate.
Our feet can actually sense the vibrations when the pump operates in our Casita, but the only time it is really annoying is when trying to sleep and another person is using a sink or flushing the toilet. The pump is right under the head of the bed.
If you are too successful, then you will have to install a pilot light to remind you that the pump is powered up, or it will run the battery down.
We're interested in your results,
Kurt & Ann K.

[BobB]

My pump seems noisy when there is air in the lines--this is not easy to get out and may be due to a leak at the city water connection. Other causes of a noisy pump are restricted intake line, loose pump mounting, and worn mount bushings. I added one of those Shurflo Accumulator Tanks, but was not impressed that it did anything to quiet the pump (mine is not next to the pump). Someone recommended a loop of flexible tubing at the pump outlet, but I haven't tried that yet. I replaced my old pump with a Shurflo Whisper King and that helped some.

[Per Walthinsen]

Bob:
The pump has rubber mountings, and I have two flexible hoses connected to it, but you remind me of intake restrictions, so I will check the inlet from the tank and the lines to the pump, maybe there is a restriction. A larger diameter line may be a solution. I may also remove the water filter hooked on to the intake to see if it makes a difference.
Kurt & Anne:
I actually installed an LED pilot light to remind us of when the pump is on. Since there is no apparent leak the thing could be on all night and not activate to tell us. However, I am not sure there is a current draw when it is not running. The unit has rubber mounting feet, but some more could be in order when I fabricate a new mount.
My suspicion is that because the pump is not mounted to the floor it is transmitting vibrations directly to some part of the structure. I'll try a couple of things: 1) Mount it to the floor and 2) Send Frederick the bill. I'm pretty sure it will work.

[Kurt & Ann K.]

Per,
If Fred's bill is high enough you'll never have to worry about pump noise again 'cause he'll yank it outta there so you can't hear it (Said with tongue firmly planted in cheek)
O.K., room here I come!!!
Kurt...(Ann had nothing to do with this) K.

[Frederick L. Simson]

My suspicion is that because the pump is not mounted to the floor it is transmitting vibrations directly to some part of the structure. I'll try a couple of things: 1) Mount it to the floor and [b]2) Send Frederick the bill. I'm pretty sure it will work.

*snork*

My original equipment ShurFlo pump [b]IS mounted to the floor, and it sounds like a 18 wheeler semi using it's engine for braking! I was going to try isolating mine!

[Penny Taylor]

<<<it sounds like a 18 wheeler semi using it's engine for braking!>>>

A JAKE brake !!

[Pete Dumbleton]

It's a good idea to know when your pump is powered -- An air leak in the system may start the pump cycling often while you are away for the day -- Also, low voltage (low battery, bad wire connection) will start some (all?) RV/Marine pumps cycling until the battery is dead, which is not good for the battery -- That's why most RV manfs install a switch so the pump can be turned off when not in use.

[Byron Kinnaman]

It's a good idea to know when your pump is powered -- An air leak in the system may start the pump cycling often while you are away for the day -- Also, low voltage (low battery, bad wire connection) will start some (all?) RV/Marine pumps cycling until the battery is dead, which is not good for the battery -- That's why most RV manfs install a switch so the pump can be turned off when not in use.

1. There shouldn't be any air in the system. It there is that's a problem.

2. The pump starts when the pressure in the system drops low enough for a pressure switch to turn on the pump. That can be caused by a leaking check valve in the pump. In fact probably all pumps will leak back and pressure will drop in the out let line.

3. The problem with a low battery would be that the pump would be unable to develope enough pressure to turn off the pressure switch.

[Gina D.]

yuz guyz is too fancy for me!

I have one that looks like an old fuel pump. It comes on when I flip a switch. Whirr.. no major noise.

Flip switch off.. water gone!

[Byron Kinnaman]

yuz guyz is too fancy for me!

I have one that looks like an old fuel pump. It comes on when I flip a switch. Whirr.. no major noise.

Flip switch off.. water gone!

My trailer has one of things with a little handle you move bach and forth to get water.

Now my weed sprayer has a sureflo on it. The first one I repaired a few years ago. It finally gave out, this year. New pump installed, weeds go bye bye.

[Frederick L. Simson]

I don't really know if most of [b]the banging comes through the mounting or the hoses or is transmitted through the water pulsations.

Per: Is "water hammer" a different phenomenom than "pump" noise? I was considering adding an accumulator tank, and read the following from the ShurFlo website:

[b]RV/MARINE APPLICATIONS
The accumulator contributes to longer pump life, less noise, less amperage draw, and reduced water pulsation. The most efficient use of the accumulator occurs with the pre-charge set at the SAME pressure as the pump’s pressure switch “turn on” setting. Typically, a 40 psi [2.7 bar] pump will turn on at 20 psi [1.4 bar]. Therefore, the pre-charge should also be 20 psi [1.4 bar]. The pre-charge MUST be set in a “static” condition (pump off and at least one water fixture opened).
Approximately 15% of the total volume will be stored liquid. Depending on pre-charge pressure to the accumulator, in relation to the pump turn on/off pressures, stored liquid is about 2 to 4 oz. [60-120 ml]. If accumulator tank pre-charge exceeds pump turn on pressure, the liquid volume is reduced.
[b]WATER HAMMER APPLICATIONS
When used as a dampening device/water hammer or noise suppressor, the pre-charge should be set at the operating (dynamic) pressure. Place a gauge in the offending plumbing where the accumulator can be mounted. Adjust the valve so the noise is generated and read the pressure. Set the pre-charge to the observed pressure, remove the gauge, and install the accumulator.

My "Jake Brake" sound seems to be the mechanical sound of the pumping piston action. "Water Hammer" is a sound I associate with my grandfather's steam radiators.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Per: Is "water hammer" a different phenomenom than "pump" noise? I was considering adding an accumulator tank, and read the following from the ShurFlo website:

My "Jake Brake" sound seems to be the mechanical sound of the pumping piston action. "Water Hammer" is a sound I associate with my grandfather's steam radiators.

These pumps are diaphram pumps which are noisy. No smoth piston going back and forth. Only a solenoid turning on and off moving a diaphram back and forth.