Pump faucet doesn't fit...how to fill hole? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-04-2016, 10:28 PM   #1
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Pump faucet doesn't fit...how to fill hole?

Our new Whale V hand pump came today, and I LOVE the way it look. However, in my admiration of it, I forgot to Check the measurements.

My mine is moving on both temporary and permanent fixes; I need to somehow bridge and/or fill this hole in such a way that I can add a screw to mount the back of the faucet through, AND make it look good.

Any genius ideas?
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Old 06-04-2016, 10:29 PM   #2
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One of my ideas is to replace the city water with this one, and cap the big hole with a chrome plumbing hold cap. We will never use the city water...I think. But, I hate to get rid of it out of hand.
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Old 06-04-2016, 10:45 PM   #3
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I can't really tell from the photo, but could you use the large hole for a soap dispenser and drill a new hole for the pump ?
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Old 06-04-2016, 11:06 PM   #4
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Not exactly sure what you have there, but to fill the hole that is larger than necessary, you might look at escutcheons available:
Escutcheons & Flanges - Faucet Parts & Repair - Plumbing Parts & Repair - *The Home Depot

Even a hobby shop may have something to use to cover the hole nicely. You may want to add a piece of wood underneath for your mounting screw to go thru, or some sort of backing.

I, too, would be hesitant to take out the city water faucet.

Good luck, and I enjoy and appreciate your info you post.
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Old 06-04-2016, 11:46 PM   #5
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There is a product made of a strong plastic. I forget the exact name but I found it by searching for "plastic wall panels". It is really strong and could cover the hole either by laminating it to the counter or putting a wood block under it.

By really strong, I mean I can't break it with a hammer but I can saw it easily. It is used on the walls of public restrooms. I have some scraps rescued from a remodel a few years ago. Unfortunately, I don't know if you could find it smaller than 4' by 8' sheets unless you visited my basement.

I was going to laminate it to the outside door of my Casita to hide belly band damage and to prevent further damage. A piece c went with the buyer when I sold it so he could finish that project.

2004 Georgetown 326DS
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Old 06-05-2016, 12:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Fish View Post
There is a product made of a strong plastic. I forget the exact name but I found it by searching for "plastic wall panels". It is really strong and could cover the hole either by laminating it to the counter or putting a wood block under it.

By really strong, I mean I can't break it with a hammer but I can saw it easily. It is used on the walls of public restrooms. I have some scraps rescued from a remodel a few years ago. Unfortunately, I don't know if you could find it smaller than 4' by 8' sheets unless you visited my basement.

I was going to laminate it to the outside door of my Casita to hide belly band damage and to prevent further damage. A piece c went with the buyer when I sold it so he could finish that project.

2004 Georgetown 326DS
Would you believe I just took a pile of scraps of that stuff to the Habitat Restore? That's what I get for ever cleaning out my garage. Maybe I missed a scrap...
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Old 06-05-2016, 12:04 AM   #7
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I'll poke around at the hardware store and see if there's something flange like that will work...
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Old 06-05-2016, 01:51 AM   #8
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Look in the electrical department for rigid conduit reducer rings. Put one on top and one on the bottom of the counter top. They come in various sizes. You will want to paint them first. White appliance paint in the spray can should be a close match. You can also use a plumbing cover for a shower depending on how big a hole you need.
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Old 06-05-2016, 01:59 AM   #9
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I had the same problem with a garage sink faucet replacement. Just took an 1/8" thick piece of aluminum, cut the hole size I needed and trimmed the overall outside to fit the flat surface...done. I had the scrape material laying around in the "possible use" bin .
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:10 AM   #10
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You might find a large fender washer will do the trick. Stainless would be best.
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Old 06-05-2016, 07:06 AM   #11
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As Steve Baz suggested a set of reducing washers would work.
Guessing from the picture a set of 1" to 1/2" may work..
Electrical reducing washers are trade size so a 1/2" washer is for 1/2" conduit but the actual hole size is 7/8" . The washers are made in many combinations so finding the right size should not be a problem plus they are cheap and galvanized .
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Old 06-05-2016, 09:30 AM   #12
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Delrin Plastic Adapter

Hello,

You might consider using Delrin hard plastic sheet.
It is available in many places including Ebay.
To make the adapter you could use a hole saw to
cut a disk of delrin the proper size for your application.
Then use a router bit to round over the top edge of
the fabricated adapter. Delrin is a very hard material
that is very durable and can be machined. It is
commonly available in white or black.

Larry H
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:42 PM   #13
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A trip to the hardware store later, I remembered Bondo. It was so useful on our old house restoration...id forgotten about it.

They have a Bondo-glass now...maybe a good option? Fill, sand smooth and use something like the evercoat to put gel coat on?

Also found some interesting ideas for plate/plastic type filler. A cable filler is exaclyt the same size as the existing hole...
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Old 06-06-2016, 12:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zennifer View Post
A trip to the hardware store later, I remembered Bondo. It was so useful on our old house restoration...id forgotten about it.

They have a Bondo-glass now...maybe a good option? Fill, sand smooth and use something like the evercoat to put gel coat on?

Also found some interesting ideas for plate/plastic type filler. A cable filler is exaclyt the same size as the existing hole...
Email a sketch to me of with dimensions for a transition plate you could put between the two pieces and I'll send you a quote for one made of ABS white plastic. Probably $10 plus shipping from Oregon.
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