Replacing flush valve in SeaLand Toilet - Post #1 - Fiberglass RV
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-03-2012, 11:37 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
Fran L's Avatar
 
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
Registry
Replacing flush valve in SeaLand Toilet - Post #1

Note: There are more than 10 photos in this sequence so there will be two posts. One with photos 1 to 8 and the second with the remaining photos.

Background: We have a 2005 Deluxe Scamp 5er with front bath.
During a recent trip we discovered that our toilet was leaking badly whenever the Scamp was attached to a water supply. We had to disconnect the water from the Scamp to stop the leak for the rest of the trip. The suspected culprit was a cracked flush valve in the toilet pedal. The only way to check it out was to remove the toilet.
You will need: a flathead screwdriver (the shorter the better), a 7/16 box end wrench and slip joint pliers. Some rags and/or paper towels will come in handy.

Here is how we did it. It actually was not that difficult so don’t let the number of steps deter you. I’ve just detailed everything. I don’t have pictures for Part 1 - Removing the Toilet and Flush Valve but you can reference the reinstallation photos to get your bearings. It is helpful to have your SeaLand/Dometic Toilet Owner’s Manual handy too!

PART 1 - REMOVING THE TOILET AND FLUSH VALVE:
1. Disconnect the Scamp from any water supply. Flush as much water out of the toilet as possible so you won’t have water spilling out of hoses when you disconnect them from the toilet and remove the whole thing.
2. There is a hose that goes from the pedal to the back top of the toilet which supplies water into the tank when you lift the pedal. The hose is attached to a boxy contraption with a hose clamp. No need to mess with that clamp – leave it attached to the boxy thing. That boxy thing is the vacuum breaker kit and it is just pushed into a hole at the top back of the toilet. Disconnect it from the toilet by just pulling the vacuum breaker kit straight back. It should just pull out. You will ultimately need to disconnect this hose from the flush valve in the pedal but that is easier to do once the toilet is off and you can get into the pedal area.
3. If your toilet has the pedestal cover kit on it (the plastic cowl around the base of the toilet which hides the connections), you will need to remove it. Ours was already just hanging there because we (and the previous owner) couldn’t get it to fit right. It is supposed to snap into place, hinging at the side of the toilet opposite the pedal. So just take it off.
4. Next step is to remove the toilet bowl from the base mount. (Note: there are 3 major pieces to the toilet: the toilet bowl, the base mount and the plastic black water tank.) Around the base of the toilet bowl is a metal strap which is holding on a plastic two part collar. The metal strap is just like a big hose clamp. The release screw should be around the back of the toilet. Contort yourself around so you can reach that screw and loosen the strap just enough to allow the 2 piece plastic collar to come apart and out. Be sure not to let the strap come apart completely and things will be a lot easier for the reassembly.
5. With the strap loose and the plastic collar taken out, grab hold of the toilet bowl and twist slightly and lift to break the seal and separate the toilet bowl from the mount base. Put it someplace out of the way. When you remove the bowl, note that there is a small stub sticking up from the rubber surface of the mount base and there is a notch in the edge of the toilet bowl base. These must fit together when you position the bowl as you replace it onto the mount base later.

NOTE: In our Scamp the black water tank vent pipe was wedged tightly against the flush pedal (grrr!) so we had to also remove the mount base in order to get the side cover off the pedal and reach the flush valve in the pedal. If yours has the vent on the other side you should be able to do the rest of the work without removing the mount base. Just release the side cover of the flush pedal by pressing the button on the top back of the pedal and pulling that side cover off (disengaging the little catch at the front) revealing the flush valve.
6. If you can reach it, unscrew the connection of the incoming water line to the back of the flush valve. Ours had a plastic screw on collar securing it to the valve.
7. There are 4 bolts holding the mount base to the plastic tank. Undo the nuts and washers on those 4 bolts with your 7/16 wrench. Lift the mount base (along with the pedal and flush valve) off the tank just far enough so that the pedal is clear of the vent pipe. If you were unable to do step 6 before, then you are still connected to the incoming water supply line and you can’t go far until you disconnect the incoming water line from the flush valve. Remove the flush pedal side cover by pressing the button on the top back of the pedal and pulling that side cover off revealing the flush valve and providing better access to the incoming water line so you can disconnect it.
8. Once you are disconnected from the incoming water supply line you can take the base mount, with the pedal and flush valve still connected, someplace where you can work more comfortably! No need to remove the pedal from the base mount!
9. Remove the flush valve from the pedal and base mount by undoing the 2 screws on the face of the valve. Now you should have just the flush valve and the hose and vacuum breaker kit that went to the top back of the toilet bowl. Hurray!
10. If you decide you need to replace the flush valve then, you will need to remove the hose that goes to the vacuum breaker kit so you can reattach it to the new valve. Release the hose clamp at the valve end of the hose and pull the hose off. It was really hard to do! We had to wedge a screwdriver under the edge of the hose to help get it over the flange on the connector.



PART 2 - REPLACING THE FLUSH VALVE AND REINSTALLING THE TOILET (with pics!)
1. As soon as we had it out, it was immediately clear that our old flush valve had cracked and was the source of the leak (as other members had suggested to us!)
Click image for larger version

Name:	1-Cracked flush valve.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	176.3 KB
ID:	47251
2. Obtain a new flush valve that matches the old one. Most RV Parts places will carry them. Ours cost $52 – ouch! Looked after the fact and found it on Amazon for $28.52 but then you have to wait for it. http://www.amazon.com/SeaLand-SE314349-Water-Valve-Kit/dp/B000XBBISO
Since we weren’t sure our flush valve was cracked, we didn’t know ahead of time that we would need a new one. Live and learn.
Click image for larger version

Name:	2- New flush valve.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	169.4 KB
ID:	47252
3. Reattach the hose from the vacuum breaker kit to the new valve.
Click image for larger version

Name:	3-New flush valve attached to toilet fill line.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	212.5 KB
ID:	47253
4. Secure the new valve to the pedal and base mount using the 2 new screws that came with the new valve kit. Don’t tighten too much or you can break the valve housing.
Click image for larger version

Name:	4-Attaching new flush valve to pedal and toilet mounting section.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	301.1 KB
ID:	47254
5. Take everything back to the Scamp and position the mount base nearly onto the seal so you can reattach the water supply line to the new valve. Again, if you were not blocked by the vent pipe to begin with in Part 1, then your mount base might not even have been removed!
Click image for larger version

Name:	5a-Attaching the water supply lilne to the flush valve.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	185.8 KB
ID:	47255
Click image for larger version

Name:	5b- Supply line now attached to the flush valve.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	157.0 KB
ID:	47256
6. Once the water line is reconnected, put the side cover of the pedal back in place, engaging the front catch first and then snapping the main part of the cover into position.
Click image for larger version

Name:	6- Put the cover on the side of the pedal before seating the toilet mounting section.jpg
Views:	11
Size:	179.9 KB
ID:	47257
7. Position the mount base on the seal and 4 bolts and secure with the washers and nuts. Be careful not to over tighten these nuts, but be sure they are secure.
Click image for larger version

Name:	7a-Secure the toilet mounting section of the toilet to the tank.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	182.1 KB
ID:	47258
Click image for larger version

Name:	7b-Ready to put the toilet bowl onto the mounting section.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	175.9 KB
ID:	47259
8. Place the metal strap which had held the 2 part plastic collar in place onto the mount base BEFORE putting the toilet bowl on.
Click image for larger version

Name:	8-Put metal strap on base before seating the toilet bowl.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	172.8 KB
ID:	47260

Continued in: Replacing flush valve in SeaLand Toilet - Post #2
Fran L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2012, 11:45 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Fran L's Avatar
 
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
Registry
Replacing flush valve in SeaLand Toilet - Post #2

Here are the rest of the instructions and photos.

9. Place the toilet bowl onto the mount base and secure it with the two part plastic collar held in place by the metal strap. It takes a bit of adjustment to get plastic collar together and metal strap in place and then get the screw tightened. Note that the plastic collar will have a wide gap in the back – just be sure the pieces are keyed together in the front in the same relationship as when you took the collar off. Position the tightening screw at the back of the toilet and tighten securely. The plastic collar should now be holding the bowl firmly in place on the mount base. This takes a bit of adjustment to get all the pieces in place and then get the screw tightened. It helps to slide the metal strap above the collar pieces and then bring it down over the collar when it is in place.
Click image for larger version

Name:	9a-Secure the toilet bowl to the mounting section with the 2 part  plastic collar and metal stra.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	161.2 KB
ID:	47261
Click image for larger version

Name:	9b-Toilet bowl secured with metal strap.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	170.9 KB
ID:	47262
Click image for larger version

Name:	9c-Metal strap screw at the back of the toilet.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	167.5 KB
ID:	47263
Click image for larger version

Name:	9d-View of the back of the pedal and flush valve.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	142.0 KB
ID:	47264

10. Reinstall the vacuum breaker and flush water supply line into the hole in the back top of the toilet bowl. All hoses should now be back in place and the toilet secured on the base.
Click image for larger version

Name:	10a-Reconnect the flush water supply line to the toilet.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	205.5 KB
ID:	47265
Click image for larger version

Name:	10b-View of the back of the connection of the flush water supply.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	191.1 KB
ID:	47266
Click image for larger version

Name:	10c-Another view of the back of the connection of the flush water supply.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	173.9 KB
ID:	47267
11. If your toilet had a pedestal cover then now is the time to put that back on. We left ours off because we could not get it to stay in place. Every time we moved the pedal it would force the cover off. It’s just cosmetic.
Click image for larger version

Name:	11-Cosmetic collar around the base of the toilet.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	162.4 KB
ID:	47268
12. While we had the toilet off, we took the opportunity to install a cut off valve in the water supply line. (You can see it in the photo near where the water supply line emerges from the bathroom wall.) This way we can shut off the toilet water if we want and still have water to the sinks. This could come in handy if another leak developed. Some Scampers routinely turn off the toilet water and use pitchers of water to flush. Some turn it off whenever they are not in the Scamp in case a leak occurs while away and floods the Scamp before they get back. It seemed like a good idea to us! I described that process in an earlier post: Installing cutoff valve in toilet water supply line
Click image for larger version

Name:	12-Toilet installed including water supply cutoff valve.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	168.2 KB
ID:	47269



We hope that this turns out to be helpful for others. Each time we tackle a project we learn more about our Scamp and feel a little bit more confident in trying new things! Thanks to all the other members who supplied ideas, suggestions and support! Paying it forward!
Fran in NM
Fran L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2017, 08:00 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
Name: Andy
Trailer: Scamp 2006 16'
Missouri
Posts: 17
Saved my bacon

Thanks Fran! I had been staring at this for 24 hours without luck before I found this thread. Had the toilet out in 20 minutes after reading. Thank you!
michaewa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2017, 09:26 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Fran L's Avatar
 
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
Registry
You are so very welcome! Really glad it turned out to be helpful for you!!
We've since moved on to an Escape 5.0 (first generation 5th wheel) but the lessons learned with the two Scamps we had have been useful...especially the shut-off valve!! That was the first mod we did in our Escape!

We did have to replace a toilet valve in the Escape...they seem to be very susceptible to freeze cracks if you don't get every drop of water out. In the Escape we had to cut the pvc lines in order to get the toilet out to change the valve! We re-installed with a removable clamp joining the sections of pvc so we could more easily remove it IF the is a next time! Live and learn!

Happy travels!
Fran L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 01:59 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Francois
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,163
Registry
well geeez....

almost makes me wish I had a Sealand toilet...I'd be all set !!!!

but this thread (old) begs the question:

Assuming you weren't "forced" to give up the Scamp 5er.....What made you change to an Escape?.....What are the differences, now that you've had time to experience both brands ???

(I like your single axle BTW... don't think they make it anymore....I'm kind of a fan of single axle towing)
Attached Thumbnails
btcc3.jpg  
Franswa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 02:12 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Fran L's Avatar
 
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
Registry
Why we switched to Escape 5.0

Well, we initially had a 16' Scamp and then moved up to the Scamp Deluxe 5th wheel mostly for the queen bed separate from the living area. However, while we could both sort of fit in the sideways bed, it was always a struggle for my 6'2" husband. Plus there were a number of features that we coveted on the Escape:
1) fully enclosed fiberglass, rather than plywood base.
2) Front to back oriented queen bed with space on the sides.
3) Solar panels
4) standard fifth wheel hitch
5) mechanized front support legs
6) ability to get modifications made
7) the workmanship and materials seemed superior to Scamp.
We bought a used Escape which was a private sale but sold through the factory. Since it was already at the factory (in Chilliwack BC) we were able to get a window added and solar panels added at the factory.

So far, after 4 years, we have been pleased with our decision.
Yes, they no longer make the single axle Escape 5.0....so we have a true 'classic' !
Fran L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 02:38 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Name: Francois
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,163
Registry
high time....

well it's high time you changed your registry then....with lots of pics....

get to work, Fran
Franswa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2017, 03:50 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Fran L's Avatar
 
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
Registry
Well, I've made a start...at least there is one photo of the Escape!
Fran L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2018, 06:32 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Radar1's Avatar
 
Trailer: 2020 Escape 19 (was 2005 16 ft Scamp Side Dinette and 2005 Fleetwood (Coleman) Taos pop-up)
Posts: 1,227
Registry
Although the post is almost six years old, it still serves a useful purpose. Thanks for posting this, it made it a lot easier for me to tackle the replacement of the flush seal.
I read in the manual that the pedestal cover simply snapped in place, but I was trying to figure out how to unsnap it, and worried that I would force something apart that would then break and no longer be usable.
I also read one manual that mentioned a screw holding the pedestal together (it appears that is just on a taller pedestal).
I first tried to remove the two screws on the flush valve hoping to gain access to that non existent screw, but the screws were hard to access (see picture) because the pedal got in the way of a direct access, and the vent on the front bath Scamp prevented me from getting any sockets in there. Finally got the screws loosened, but they ran into the vent before coming all the way out and I couldn't gain access that way.
That's when I finally decided to look it up and found some posts including this one, which helped a lot.
Accessing the flush valve is a whole lot easier if you just get the pedestal cover off and then remove the 4 hold down nuts and take the toilet out.
As it turns out, I finally got it unsnapped and now that I see what it looks like I really had nothing to worry about. As long as you can pull the unhinged side of the lower pedestal out a bit away from the toilet, it will release it's hold and unhinge.
I took a picture to show where the two "snaps" simply slide into place when closed so that hopefully anyone facing removing the pedestal will have an easier time doing it than I did. The picture is a view from below, the "snaps" were only on the lower side of the pedestal cover.
The other picture just shows the flush valve screws after the toilet was removed.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20180228_131705217.jpg   IMG_20180228_150153544.jpg  

__________________
Dave (and Marilyn who is now watching from above)
Sharpsburg, GA
04 Dodge Dakota V-8, 17 Dodge Durango V-6, 19 Ford Ranger 2.3 Ecoboost
radar1-scamping.blogspot.com
Radar1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2018, 06:37 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Fran L's Avatar
 
Name: Fran
Trailer: None now - had 2 Scamps and 1 Escape
Posts: 282
Registry
Glad you found it helpful!!
Fran L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2021, 10:38 AM   #11
Junior Member
 
amyjmn's Avatar
 
Name: Amy
Trailer: Currently Shopping
Minnesota
Posts: 9
Very helpful... thank you! I could not get it to unsnap and this helps a lot. Finally took it to Scamp for repair - luckily it is just 3 hours away from me. Thanks.
amyjmn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sealand Toilet Flush Ball Replacement Gasket DogHaus Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 8 03-03-2017 07:45 AM
Dometic Sealand 711 Traveler Toilet Matt in SV Plumbing | Systems and Fixtures 11 01-21-2011 05:18 PM
SeaLand toilet D Tharp Plumbing | Systems and Fixtures 8 07-29-2008 11:32 AM
Sealand Traveler Toilet Robert Bemis Classified Archives 0 06-21-2006 08:19 AM
Sealand toilet removal / leaking / flakeboard rot Legacy Posts Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 6 06-09-2003 06:13 AM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.