Scamp 16 water heater - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-23-2015, 06:53 PM   #1
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Name: Jim
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Scamp 16 water heater

I was looking through the new 16er preparing it for winter since it will be a long remodel and was looking at the water heater.

Can anyone tell me what this thing is suppose to be hooked up to?\


Edit:
Sorry that is rotated 90 degrees.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:11 PM   #2
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Can you post another picture showing the location of the other pipes coming and going from the heater... also what year is your scamp?
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:15 PM   #3
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Can you post another picture showing the location of the other pipes coming and going from the heater... also what year is your scamp?
I will have to get them later. That port is facing the back of the trailer.

Its a 2003
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:29 AM   #4
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Here is the other side of the heater and the only other two hoses connected to it. They are connected to the tank.
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:55 AM   #5
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Name: Darral
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One important thing missing for "winterizing" with RV antifreeze is a "Bypass" valve! Your inlet and outlet is there. The inlet is on the bottom and the outlet (going to your sink etc) is on the top.

In other words, when you try to winterize using an onboard waterpump (you DO have a water tank I believe you said?), then it's going to pump into the water heater as well without a bypass valve blocking it.

It looks like the nipple you show in the pic was an add-on by another owner. It ALSO looks like you could see it from the out door portion (where you open the access door) of the water heater???? Can you get us a picture looking at the outside of the water heater with the access door open? I'm just curious.

You say the two hoses are running to the "tank". One of them has to come FROM the fresh water tank, but the top one has to be the supply to your faucets/commode, etc. Otherwise, you'd have a continuous "loop" if both are connected to the "tank".

Here's a picture of my water heater made some time ago when I was getting ready to install the "HottRod". It clearly shows my bypass valve. On the styrofoam insulation, I have it written so I can easily remember which way is bypass or bypass off. If it's perpendicular, it's blocking, if it's "inline"....it's flowing. It's currently (in the photo below) shown in the "bypass" position.

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Here is the other side of the heater and the only other two hoses connected to it. They are connected to the tank.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:05 AM   #6
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Good point, I don't think there is a bypass valve, I will dig into that further. I do have a water tank.

I just realized what that barb fitting is for in my first photo. Its to an outside gate valve that would allow you to have hot water outside.

I know I need to pull the sink cabinet anyway so I will see about adding the bypass valve at that time. Actually I will probably be pulling the entire water heater as well. I would rather not, but the wheel well is shot and needs to be replaced, I'm not sure I will be able to get it glassed in without pulling the heater and tank.
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Old 09-24-2015, 09:36 AM   #7
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Name: Jack L
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I'm guessing the brass fitting in the first photo is a splice or some sort of repair of the WHITE PEX pipe. Your second photo shows some GREY PEX pipe installed with some plastic fittings that are not the crimp type. The different color pipe and different fittings lead me to believe some plumbing additions or repairs were done after your trailer left the factory. Not necessarily a bad thing, just something that is not standard. I would start at the pump and follow the line to the water heater and beyond. Good luck.
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Old 09-24-2015, 01:25 PM   #8
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I had a by-pass valve on my water heater that failed, and I filled the tank with antifreeze. I replacement the valve system with garden hose fittings, a male at the inlet side, and a female at the discharge side. I put mating fittings on the hoses. To winterize, I ok the two hoses together, the water heater is then out of the system, and no valves can fail. Not quite as easy as a bypass, but totally fool proof.
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Old 09-24-2015, 03:32 PM   #9
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Name: Darral
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Not sure what fittings you are referring to. But if you will look at my photo, Scamp uses the "shrink" fittings on their piping. That's what I see in the "second" photo. The brass length and clamps....of course I agree, that's a rig from a previous owner.

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Originally Posted by Jack L View Post
I'm guessing the brass fitting in the first photo is a splice or some sort of repair of the WHITE PEX pipe. Your second photo shows some GREY PEX pipe installed with some plastic fittings that are not the crimp type. The different color pipe and different fittings lead me to believe some plumbing additions or repairs were done after your trailer left the factory. Not necessarily a bad thing, just something that is not standard. I would start at the pump and follow the line to the water heater and beyond. Good luck.
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Old 09-25-2015, 10:57 AM   #10
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Name: Steve in NY
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Folks, notice Darral's drawing on his water heater. That is how it's done. Draw yourself a picture for next year. I keep a sharpie in my pocket and mark anything I can that needs an explanation. As for the rest of the problems I have nothing.

Take Care,
Steve
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