Scamp Bathroom and Toilet Teardown - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-28-2014, 07:53 PM   #1
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Name: Drew
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 16ft, Layout 4
Minnesota
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Scamp Bathroom and Toilet Teardown

I have a 1987 Scamp 16-er that I absolutely adore, but the bathroom has always been an, ahem, shitty situation. We bought it 2 years ago and the PO said "the bathroom window leaks a little despite having it fixed" and "we haven't cleaned the bathroom recently". It was clear that what he meant was the toilet was leaky and the window was irreversibly installed incorrectly. Nevertheless, it is my scampy scamp now- after several trips and with more upcoming, I've dug into the bathroom. If you have any tips or suggestions, please share!


The window:
There was a small, opaque, crank-out window in the bathroom with caulk around the edges. No weep holes, and the inner frame has been screwed in multiple times on both the outside and the inside of the window. The inner frame was installed such that there was a 1/4-1/2inch gap in the center on the bottom (wrap around).
I've removed the window to find an old and crushed foam gasket behind a thin bead of silicone. I don't have quite enough butyl tape on hand to reseal the window, but have some on order. I sure hope it fixes the leak! However, I suspect the way the holes were drilled so haphazardly that I will be trying to seal those as well with butyl tape.

The toilet:
Disassembling a toilet 6 months older than I am was quite the experience. Wonderful little device, but rusted and dried out in many places. I'm glad to be giving the Scamp some overdue TLC. The porcelain Sealand 911 is in good condition, as is the toielt drain valve. I've got a new rubber seal set for the porcelain to valve connection. The rest of the toilet (ball valve, black tank) needed attention so I delved into total dissassembly. There were 4 screwed down clips, 2 on each available edge, holding the black tank to the floor.

Toilet Drain Valve:
The toilet drain valve was stuck on the black water tank, as the bolts rotated when I would try to turn the nuts holding the toilet drain valve to the black water tank. The toilet was leaking at this joint, so it HAD to come apart. I left this momentarily assembled and attacked the problem from the other side.

The black tank sewer valve:
The waste valve operated just fine underneath the Scamp, but above it- a thick, waxy substance was extruding from around the pipe and has been damp from time to time. The actual hole in the scamp floor is probably more like 4-5in in diameter. The bolts around the waste valve were extremely rusty, so they were cut off with an angle grinder so I could unscrew the exit pipe from the black tank. (The frame of the scamp directly next to the waste valve inhibits the pipe from turning more than 1/2 turn) Now the black tank and bottom half of the toilet are free from the base of the Scamp completely, and I was able to haul them out to a bigger area. Since I had to destroy the waste valve to get the toilet apart, I'm going to have to replace it. I'm not totally sure how I will narrow the very large opening around the waste exit pipe that screws into the base of the black tank.

Back to the Toilet Drain Valve:
With the black tank out of the scamp, I was able to stick a (gloved) hand into the black tank through the valve to hold the head of the bold with an adjustable wrench and use a socket to remove the nut. It would have been helpful to have another set of hands to hold the ball valve from smooshing my wrish at this point, but it was doable on my own. Separating the rest of the toilet from the tank revealed a VERY dry what I can only assume was a wax ring. Time for that to be replaced as well.

The black tank:
The black tank appears to be 2 part, with a bottom piece slightly raised from the bottom of the edges. (Note: the tank appears upside down in some of my pictues) It looks like the threaded conneciton between the black tank and the waste valve pipe had been leaking, but that the tank itself is still intact. I was so nervous this project would reveal the necessity of a new toilet. So glad to repair the one we have!

The bathroom floor:
The floor of the bathroom (shower basin) is mounted on a slope AWAY from the drain. Even if I jack the Scamp so that the trailer is tilted towards the drain, the floor is still sloped away. I'm trying to decide if I want to pull it out and try to level it. Considering I've stripped the bathroom down to the floor, it's a logical next step at this moment (and hopefully never again). Any tips on the shower floor? Has anyone encountered or fixed this?
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Old 09-28-2014, 10:19 PM   #2
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Name: Dan
Trailer: Scamp
Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewSK View Post

>snip<

The bathroom floor:
The floor of the bathroom (shower basin) is mounted on a slope AWAY from the drain. Even if I jack the Scamp so that the trailer is tilted towards the drain, the floor is still sloped away. I'm trying to decide if I want to pull it out and try to level it. Considering I've stripped the bathroom down to the floor, it's a logical next step at this moment (and hopefully never again). Any tips on the shower floor? Has anyone encountered or fixed this?
My bathroom floor is the same way. I've thought about installing a second drain at the low spot and plumbing it into the input side of the drain pump... but so far have not done so.

-- Dan Meyer :Steer
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:33 AM   #3
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Name: Drew
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 16ft, Layout 4
Minnesota
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Originally Posted by Dan Meyer View Post
My bathroom floor is the same way. I've thought about installing a second drain at the low spot and plumbing it into the input side of the drain pump... but so far have not done so.

-- Dan Meyer :Steer
Eggcellent idea Dan. The low side (middle of the trailer) hangs over the inside of the trailer instead of being directly interfaced with the outside- so to install a drain here and plumb it in with the drain I'd be drilling in 2 spots. Once through the base of the shower, then again over and out the side of the "baseboard" below the bathroom. I guess I'd know right away if my drain was leaking!
That's my only trepidation. Though having redundant drains in a bathroom with "a leaky window" seems like a nice fail safe.


I do wonder sometimes if this bathroom floor "feature" has ever been removed from production, in that do the currently produced scamps have correctly sloped bathroom floors?
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:46 AM   #4
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Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
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Nice write-up and pictures. I think I am OK for now with my 1988 but will probably have to go through this some day. From what I have read here on the forum I think the bathroom window (like all the holes in the FG shell) is a source of a potential problem. After reading about it leaking and water coming down between the inner bathroom wall and shell of another member's 16 I checked mine. Sure enough although not too serious yet there is evidence of water finding its' way in there on mine. I store under cover so have some time on that issue but pulling the bathroom window and resealing is on "the list".
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Old 09-30-2014, 07:19 PM   #5
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Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
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Be sure of where the window is leaking. Mine leaks also, but it's between the frame and the window itself, not between the bidding band frame. Luckily that means it just drips into the shower pan. One of these days, I need to find a new deal for it.


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Old 09-30-2014, 08:55 PM   #6
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Name: Drew
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 16ft, Layout 4
Minnesota
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Unfortunately the window leaked both within the window and window frame (dripping down into the incorrectly sloped shower pan) and behind the window frame and into the wall. I'll have to snap pictures of the way the inner frame was drilled into the window.


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Old 10-03-2014, 12:11 PM   #7
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Name: Drew
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 16ft, Layout 4
Minnesota
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All of the toilet components have been cleaned (bleached and scrubbed) and I've started detatching the shower pan to level it out. Spent a few hours scraping the PO's sillycone work from the shower. Since removing the shower pan will take just as long as removing the toilet, I decided to put a little extra love into the toilet before it's reassembled.

My DW spotted it in the garage and is appreciative that the toilet will be pretty. Despite the bleach and scrubbing, the tank was extremely stained from you-know-what leaking over time.

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Old 10-03-2014, 12:58 PM   #8
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Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewSK View Post
Unfortunately the window leaked both within the window and window frame (dripping down into the incorrectly sloped shower pan) and behind the window frame and into the wall. I'll have to snap pictures of the way the inner frame was drilled into the window.


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
I had to reseal the bathroom window in my trailer as well. In heavy rain and wind water would appear in the shower pan... thought at first it was the toilet that was leaking. After a couple of days of heavy rain I could see the laminate on the wall under the window starting to discolour. It was turning red from the adhesive Scamp had used to install the laminate wall covering as the water was seeping in behind the laminate.

I had to use a lot of butyl tape on the outside when I redid the window - didnt use enough the first time I did it & had to redo it. Seem to think I also had to fill in the original screw holes that were used for the inside frame as the gap at the bottom was larger than what I have now - still a small 1/4" gap. May not have been mounted correctly right from the start - although somehow it did manage to stay leak free for 16 years....
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Old 10-05-2014, 07:47 PM   #9
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Name: Drew
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 16ft, Layout 4
Minnesota
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Did a bit more work on the shower floor today - drilled the rivets out on the inside of the shower pan but left the rivets intact that were through the external shell.

With the threshold to the bathroom removed, you get a nice side-on view of the floor.


I trimmed the door moulding up 1 inch to start with, but that ended up being exactly what I needed to get the shower pan to level. I had a few pieces of plywood of different thicknesses that I cut into strips to use as shims to support the new grade of the shower floor.



Will be drilling new holes for rivets once the supply of snap caps arrives tomorrow.
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Old 10-12-2014, 07:42 PM   #10
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Name: Drew
Trailer: 1987 Scamp 16ft, Layout 4
Minnesota
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Sorry about the sideways pictures folks, but I can't get them to post upright even after appearing upright on my computer and I'm too excited from having this project done to keep them to myself!



The shower floor is leveled as seen above, and required a new threshold be created. The door also had to be removed and trimmed (including 1/2in off the hinge). The adjustment to the shower floor required new holes to be drilled for rivets to secure the floor, but that was relatively painless. I've been seduced by red snap-caps, they look a bit *different* and it's easy to tell at a glance if I've redone a snap cap.

The toilet re-install was much easier (and cleaner!) than the teardown.



Decided to cover up the 80's design wall with a little flat white paint and reused an old toilet paper holder.

In case you're curious about the parts I ordered, here's a quick breakdown:
(I'm not guaranteeing price or fit for your particular model, but they worked for my scamp)
-floor flange seal, between black tank and toilet http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NSS4C8/
-bayonet flange, bottom of black tank valve Amazon.com: Valterra T1009 3" Bayonet Flange: Automotive
-slip hub flange, glued to 3in ABS to join to black tank Amazon.com: Valterra T1005 3" Slip Hub Flange: Automotive
-waste valve http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EDUTQ8/
-rubber seal, toilet to ball valve
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HC4VA0/

-butyl tape for the window seal Amazon.com: Dicor (BT-1834-1) 1/8" x 3/4" x 30&#39; Butyl Seal Tape: Automotive


Lastly, a big thanks to Eddie for several PMs with well-informed advice. He mentioned the pump installed on the shower drains on current Scamp models as well as the upgraded grey water tank that is a crazy good deal through Scamp. Now I have plans for future projects!
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:52 AM   #11
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Name: Danny
Trailer: Scamp
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Could you tell me what is the Total height of the unit, from the bottom of the tank to the top of the toilet? Thanks, Danny
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:38 AM   #12
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Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Virginia
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Danny
Drew has a Sealand 911 toilet which has been discontinued. The current toilet used by Scamp is the Sealand M-28 711 toilet. One note on the 711. You will can get deals on them from Marine stores for under $500 but they are marine models with no bottom discharge outlet in the tank. The RV model 711, you have to buy the tank seperately from the bowl and the tank only comes in bone color. Scamps sells the toilets and RV tanks. Contact Dometic Sealand toilet customer service for P/N for the RV model numbers if you buy locally.
Eddie
Check out page 2 for measurements.
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/149...?page=2#manual
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