Scamp water heater plug...size???? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-21-2014, 02:09 PM   #1
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Scamp water heater plug...size????

Took out my plastic plug to drain my water heater........ Now I have lost the plug. Does anyone know what size replaces the plug. Also, I want to purchase a water heater drain valve to go back in; so I don't have to keep taking it out. I did this to all my larger units in the past. But I don't have the old plug to measure by. Help please. Drain valve below.
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:50 PM   #2
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My 2012 was 15/16 not what was in the Scamp video
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:57 PM   #3
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Who is the manufacturer of the water heater? Atwood water heaters have an aluminum tank and use a plastic plug / no anode ==Suburban water heaters have a steel tank and use an anode /no plastic plug . The use of a brass fitting is not recommended to be used with an aluminum tank due to galvanic action from dissimilar metals . Teflon tape does not eliminate the problem . The Atwood has a 1/2' NPT drain port , my Suburban water heater has a 3/4" NPT anode / drain port
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Who is the manufacturer of the water heater? Atwood water heaters have an aluminum tank and use a plastic plug / no anode ==Suburban water heaters have a steel tank and use an anode /no plastic plug . The use of a brass fitting is not recommended to be used with an aluminum tank due to galvanic action from dissimilar metals . Teflon tape does not eliminate the problem . The Atwood has a 1/2' NPT drain port , my Suburban water heater has a 3/4" NPT anode / drain port
Isn't the pressure relief valve brass? So, why would it hurt to have a drain plug brass?
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:58 PM   #5
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The brass pressure relief valve is electrically isolated from the aluminum tank similar to the dielectric unions used with a household water heater, You would have direct contact from brass to aluminum with the brass petcock.I had the same idea as you after loosing one plastic plug and breaking another but the local RV shop recommended staying with the plastic plug . I've read several articles on this subject , some say NO problem, other state it lead to leaks and premature water heater failure.
I guess it depends on who you want to believe
I know from personal experience as an electrician , the effects of copper and steel coming in contact . The results were not good
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:21 PM   #6
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Ok, I do understand what your saying. BUT, I have always used the brass valve on my other units. Class C, two 5ers, and two tag-alongs. I would be more concerned if I were leaving the water in and never draining it. However, now I'm more of a weekender and always drain my tank after each camping trip and of course leave it drained all winter. I've never had leaks or premature water heater failures, but maybe I've been lucky so far. I do know that if your not careful you could strip the threads and then you would have problems and with the plastic plug that wouldn't happen. However, like I said I've always used them and I guess I'm one of the hardheaded ones. LOL
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:50 PM   #7
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I found out it is a 1/2" plug. Took my plastic plug to the local plumbing store and matched the threads to a 1/2" female coupling. Problem solved. Not the brightest light bulb; but I am persistent.
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Old 05-26-2014, 07:33 PM   #8
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Now if I had carefully read what you asked I might have given you the right answer instead of the socket size.. Glad you got it fixed

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Fiberglass RV mobile app
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