Simplify the dump process question.

[John Linck]

Fellow fiberglass fans,

I want to combine the two sewer outlets on my Scamp 13. I was given a macerator pump and would like to dump by just hooking up a garden hose and flipping a 12 volt switch, then open a valve or two and be done. Has anyone journeyed this road before? I did lift my Scamp 3 inches which may aid with clearance issues. I believe the macerator is capable of sucking the gray water thru a smallish diameter hose up and over the axle.

Any sage advice from you seasoned campers?

Smooth flowing, john

[Steve L.]

I have a macerator pump, bought for the sailboat but never used on it. Jabsco pump I believe. Basically the same one Camping World sells in their portable pump out kit. I made up a stub of hose (about 6") and a fitting to fit the Casita’s combined grey/back outlet. I then put a 12v outlet on the street side, back by where the converter is on the Casita. It’s a 2 foot run to the fuse panel. A 20a fuse if I recall correctly. I wired up the pump with big honkin’ wires and a heavy toggle on/off switch mounted to a plastic kit box. I carry the pump in a nice Pelican case because I subscribe to overkill.

I occasionally use it speed up the grey water dump. Never on black water. You need to keep a little oil of some sort to free up the impeller if you haven’t used it a month or so.

[Elvin Lowe]

I have been pumping out my Casita with a macerator pump for three years, gray and black water, with no issues. the macerator is piped to the gray and back water tanks with 2" ABS pipe and the macerator exits through a 3/4" hose on an electric motor retracting reel. The tanks are selected by opening electric valves for each tank. All is operated by a remote control fob.

[John Linck]

Steve & Elvin,

Thanks for your comments. Glad to see this seems workable. Do you happen to have any pics?

Thanks, john

[Donna D.]

The biggest problem I see to overcome by trying to combine the two dump valves on a Scamp is where to run the line from the graywater tank to the blackwater valve. Because the body is right down on the axle, you'll need to run the line under the axle and for some owners, that will make the plumbing hang down too far. Danger Will Robinson, you may scrape it off and leave it on the road at the worst possible time.

Be sure to post lots of your pictures when you find the solutons. This will be a fun mod to follow.

[Steve1234]

Hi John Linck

I've just completed combining my Black and Grey outlets... Only time will tell if this is a success or a failure... Now comes the real test as to going on the road, camping and of course the "test of time".
Click on VIDEO to see this modification working...
================================================== =====

Originally Posted by John Linck

Fellow fiberglass fans,

I want to combine the two sewer outlets on my Scamp 13. I was given a macerator pump and would like to dump by just hooking up a garden hose and flipping a 12 volt switch, then open a valve or two and be done. Has anyone journeyed this road before? I did lift my Scamp 3 inches which may aid with clearance issues. I believe the macerator is capable of sucking the gray water thru a smallish diameter hose up and over the axle.

Any sage advice from you seasoned campers?

Smooth flowing, john

[Donna D.]

This is great Steve! Because of running the pipe under the axle from the gray water tank to the dump valve, how much gray water do you estimate is left in the tank? These two screen captures may be an optical illusion, but we know water doesn't run up hill.

[Steve1234]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

This is great Steve! Because of running the pipe under the axle from the gray water tank to the dump valve, how much gray water do you estimate is left in the tank? These two screen captures may be an optical illusion, but we know water doesn't run up hill.

Morning Donna,
The tank is totally empty but the hose that goes below the tank stays filled (its about 2-1/2 feet in length)... I confirmed there wasn't anything in the Grey Water Tank by having the original Grey Water Tank “gate valve” (that is still there) completely open and by removing the end cap where I put the option of hooking up a garden hose to it, to flush out the sitting water (if need be)**** No water came out**** therefore there's no water in the tank. I really don't see a problem since P-Traps kind of do the same thing i.e. P-Traps under sinks, toilets etc in houses. And that seems to do fine in houses and campers that sit for days etc... Plus, since a camper is pretty much mobile, the water doesn't stay there for long. Just incase there is a problem with this (since I've never nor found anyone else that has tried this) design, I've added Union Joint (next to the T80 combined outlets) to dump the water in the new flexible grey water line for winterizing therefore removing all the water from the system and allowing RV ban to take its place.

As you already know now, I also have a place to flush out the new flexible grey water line to keep the line clean if that is needed (it’s basically located where the Grey water outlet use to be).

[Donna D.]

Thanks for the follow up Steve. Another question. Do you have any measurement of the distance from the bottom of the pipe (that runs under the axle) to the ground? Looks like maybe 4"-5" ? I realize if someone else was to do this modification, it would depend on the axle of their particular trailer.


And will you supply all the part numbers for what you used, please.

[Steve1234]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Thanks for the follow up Steve. Another question. Do you have any measurement of the distance from the bottom of the pipe (that runs under the axle) to the ground? Looks like maybe 4"-5" ? I realize if someone else was to do this modification, it would depend on the axle of their particular trailer.


And will you supply all the part numbers for what you used, please.

I don't know exactly the measurements you want due to the camper's location. But I can give you measurements starting at the bottom externally of the lowest part of the floor. Depending when you camper was made, that could be a way to find out the measurements you are looking for. I wasn't too concern since it didn't hang down much more than the shower pump and normally whatever the wheel goes over will also lift up the hose too next to the axle...

Starting at the very bottom of the axle, the very bottom of the hose is 1-1/2". About 5" from the bottom externally of the lowest part of the floor.
FYI: The shower pump hangs at it lowest part 4-1/4" from the bottom externally of the lowest part of the floor.

[Steve1234]

Here's something that could make it even more possible for many... There's a Bcsnave that found this. If this device could be used, that would solve the problem of running anything under the axle by now having room to put the hose above the axle...
Scamp (Dexter Torflex #9) Axle Lift Kit

[Darral T.]

The setup looks REALLY good..very neat Steve. But I DO have one concern. Pulling into filling stations where the entrance can be sometimes "steep" to help shed rain water, I'd be concerned about it dragging on the pavement in such instances. I'm actually concerned about my own behind the wheel! I have dragged the "plate" Scamp installed at the front of my trailer that's located in front of the shower drain. I heard the racket and >> But all was well when I looked. Just something to be vigilant about. Good job!

Originally Posted by Steve1234

Here's something that could make it even more possible for many... There's a Bcsnave that found this. If this device could be used, that would solve the problem of running anything under the axle by now having room to put the hose above the axle...
Scamp (Dexter Torflex #9) Axle Lift Kit

[Steve1234]

I totally understand! I've had corvettes in the past and had that exact problem as to my spoilers on the front of the vett... I always had to look way ahead before driving onto anything that wasn't level... What helped me a lot was to drive in at an angle/slant rather then driving straight to the pump...

I finally got a measurement as to the ground clearance between the bottom of the hose and bottom of the tire, it's 5" exactly...
And did you see the 3" Axle Lift Kit I put on here... That could be a fantastic way of getting around the ground clearance problem... Depending how my design works, I just might get a kit later...

Originally Posted by Darral T.

The setup looks REALLY good..very neat Steve. But I DO have one concern. Pulling into filling stations where the entrance can be sometimes "steep" to help shed rain water, I'd be concerned about it dragging on the pavement in such instances. I'm actually concerned about my own behind the wheel! I have dragged the "plate" Scamp installed at the front of my trailer that's located in front of the shower drain. I heard the racket and >> But all was well when I looked. Just something to be vigilant about. Good job!

[Darral T.]

I did see the lift kit. Personally, I wouldnt want to go to that much trouble to combine the two drains. But keep in mind, I've been dumping both tanks on a 13' for 5 yrs and compensate for it when I'm setting up camp. I learned that the HARD way.

My question on the kit.... will it/axle just be "bolted" to the main Scamp frame when you're complete? I'd be concerned about hitting bumps/holes and jarring the axle around. (cause 'dog trackin') Just curious here and please dont take it as criticism! I LOVE to do "mods" but am very detailed and most of the time "over-think" things.

[QUOTE=Steve1234;580204]
And did you see the 3" Axle Lift Kit I put on here... That could be a fantastic way of getting around the ground clearance problem... I also put it on FB too.... Depending how my design works, I just might get a kit later...

[Steve1234]

Not a problem at all... I too am detailed and over-think things...
From what I've seen, the steel square tube is bolted onto the camper frame (as the original axle was) and then the axle is bolted onto the steel square tube... Then your done... There's no drilling/welding just bolting on...

I haven't done this but it sure looks very simple to do... And I do need simple stuff...

[Darral T.]

On my Scamp 2010, it's all welded.

Originally Posted by Steve1234

Not a problem at all... I too am detailed and over-think things...
From what I've seen, the steel square tube is bolted onto the camper frame (as the original axle was) and then the axle is bolted onto the steel square tube... Then your done... There's no drilling/welding just bolting on...

I haven't done this but it sure looks very simple to do... And I do need simple stuff...

[Steve1234]

Well that settles that... LOL

[Donna D.]

The steel square tube is part of the axle.

[Steve1234]

what?

[Donna D.]

Ohh wait, I see you're talking about the lift kit from Jim, not the lift kit from Dexter. My bad.