The toilet behaved... the rest of the plumbing.... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-18-2007, 10:29 AM   #15
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Gina.....
I read your letter a few times and from what i am hearing it sounds like all your drains are emptying into the shower pan?.....If that's the case it sounds like you have a clog from the shower drain to the grey water tank.
Try taking the "P" Trap or whatever hookup you have there off at the shower and then snake it clean out to the grey tank.......The probable reason you can get water to flow one way and not the other is because the garden hose is under pressure and it pushes harder than just plain flowing water.....when the water flows from the sink and you have a slight clog past the shower it will take the path of least resistance and come out your shower......
The vent has separate tubing and that's why you can fill it from the vent
Sure hope that works and good luck
Joe
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Old 09-19-2007, 12:25 AM   #16
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I have heard you shouldn't use drain decloggers in trailers, like Liquid Plumber or draino.

I don't think I have ever heard why you shouldn't tho. Its ABS and PVC, much like home. What is the reason it's different or damaging to trailers?
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Old 09-19-2007, 01:06 AM   #17
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Quote:
I've spent [b]all night awake trying to figure this out , but I don't believe I've got it.

If you can fill the tank from the sink, maybe there is [b]an obstruction in the P-trap or beyond in the shower drain?

[b]I THINK I'VE GOT IT!!!

The obstruction IS the vent pipe!

Phred's "Poop Sheets"

Quote:
VENTING

Gas from decomposing sewage is supposed to vent out through a pipe that goes from tank top through the roof. Using the black tank as an example when you "hit the pedal," the gas that was building up in the tank should vent out through the roof. Your momentary opening of the tank shouldn't allow enough "feedback" into the RV to be noticeable--unless the tank was nearly full or the end of the vent pipe was under water and the gas had no place else to go.

[b]Vent pipes need to penetrate the top of the tank, but only an inch or so. All too often, they are sloppily installed and, after only a few miles of travel, begin to slip further down into the tank. Many manufacturers only use a putty-like material to hold these pipes in place. Incredible, but true. To their credit, though, if the thing were glued in, you'd have a hellova time getting it apart. Even if the pipes don't slip, as described here, they often leak.

In some cases, vent pipes are inserted down through the roof into the tank and just shoved on until they stop. (How much smarts do you expect from somebody who gets paid next to nothing for shoving a pipe in a hole?) In any case, if the end of the vent pipe is submerged, it won't vent.

How do you determine where the end of yours is? Sometimes easily, sometimes with great difficulty.

If you're lucky: Go to the roof, remove the cap on the vent and look for the end of the pipe. It should be nearly flush with the rooftop or a bit higher. This does not necessarily mean all is well (see below). If it's way down there someplace, or you can't even see it, it probably just slipped.

If you then go into the RV and to the back of the closet (or wherever they hid it), you might be able to grasp and twist and raise it. Don't do this too hastily. If you pull it all the way out, you can have a job getting it back in. If it's where it's supposed to be in relation to the rooftop, you might have an extra-long pipe (poor you).

If you're not lucky: You need to determine where the end of the pipe really is. Sometimes, if you have polyethylene tanks, the kind that are translucent, you can shine a very bright light against them and, looking through the opposite or side end of the tank, see the shadow of the usually black ABS-type pipe. If so, you lucked out and can adjust it.
Yours just happened in the GRAY tank, not the Black tank.
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:19 AM   #18
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I'm with Mike and Frederick.

The gray water tanks aren't very tall. They're wide and long, but not very tall. If the vent attaches to the gray tank on the thin dimension of the tank they can act as if they're blocked and it seems as though the gray tank is filled.

A number of people have added little "jumper" vents (1/2" or so ID) from the tank to the vent stack to help this and improve drainage speeds. My recollection is that they're often clear vinyl so it's easy to run them.

(I toyed with the idea of suggesting you do a forum search , but then, you're a moderator and my name might end up on some sort of board junk filter , and besides, I can't swear I read the tips on this forum or the Casita Forum . For once, discretion ruled.)
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Old 09-19-2007, 08:29 AM   #19
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As much as it pains me to say it, I think you guys may be onto something here! That would certainly explain Gina's symptoms. Perhaps a good gentle pull on the vent pipe from the top would be in order? How would you know when you'd pulled it up "enough"?

Quote:
(I toyed with the idea of suggesting you do a forum search , but then, you're a moderator and my name might end up on some sort of board junk filter , and besides, I can't swear I read the tips on this forum or the Casita Forum . For once, discretion ruled.)

Oh... and Steve... Not to worry... you're already on that "list". I saw to that a couple of years ago...

(just kidding... of course!)

Roger
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Old 09-19-2007, 08:35 AM   #20
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Gina, I'm no expert and I don't even play one on TV, but I think that Mike and Fred (and Steve L) are most likely correct. I base this on some practical experience of my own.

Although I use a blue tote, the principal is the same because my trailer is plumbed and vented. It took me a while to figure it out, but now I recognize the symptoms when it starts to happen. When I forget to vent my blue tote (even with the vent on the top), the water fills the pipes then seeks the lowest point: shower floor. When I go out and open the blue tote, I hear a swish of air, followed by a rush of water. The water on the inside also drains a lot faster. This doesn't happen, of course when I have sewer connections because it has some place to go, but when there is a 'dead end' like the enclosed tank, the air has to have someplace to go before the water can take it place.
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Old 09-25-2007, 05:32 PM   #21
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I had the EXACT same problem with my 98 Widebody, and spent just about as much time as you getting frustrated. The boys are onto something when they say the grey tank is not venting. You can do 1 of 2 things: always park your Burro with the tongue aimed at the ground (not recommended), or fix the plumbing under the sink.

When the boneheads at Burro put my trailer together they either canted the hoizontal drainpipe under the sink the wrong way, or they gave it no cant at all. The result was that when water went down the kitchen sink the first place it went was to the left, where the vent pipe came down from the roof, effectively blocking any venting. So, as you say, water just came burbling up out the shower drain. The solution is relatively easy if you're comfortable working with plastic pipe. I cut the vertical vent pipe about 1 1/2 inches above the elbow, removed a section of the horizontal pipe past the elbow, then installed a new elbow and pipe section, thus raising the vent end by that 1 1/2 inches. Made all the difference in the world and now the drain works perfectly.
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:46 AM   #22
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Hi David,

Thanks for your similar experience! The engineers at work are even having a hard time with this..

Can you draw a diagram of how you did that? I am having a hard time picturing it, tho I know where everything you are talking about is.
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Old 09-28-2007, 01:14 PM   #23
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Better yet I'll take a picture....as soon as I get a day off from work. Remind me again, why is it we have to have jobs?
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:51 PM   #24
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Remind me again, why is it we have to have jobs?
To pay for our trailers!

Thanks! I think I have the idea, but it would be great to see it executed. It makes perfect sense, given the slight nose up attitude of the trailer (Not me! LOL!) and all the other pieces of the puzzle.

I wonder if lifting the whole assembly up and blocking it under the elbow would be easier? You would have to redo the roof seal, but thats no big deal. Possibly cut down the sink drain to adjust for the main pipe raise.
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Old 09-28-2007, 03:09 PM   #25
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If I am understanding you correctly, it's like my crude drawing below.

1. Vent pipe is slanted DOWN from where kitchen sink drains into main pipe.
2. Water from sink goes down and blocks vent at elbow, water will always stay there after the first kitchen sink usage.
(Trailer Twisters, this would explain the constant gurgling we heard at that point)
3. Water then backs up drain pipe and heads for the shower, no matter WHAT sink or water source I am using.

If my trailer was unleveled, nose up, this would only exaggerate the problem. It was not bad, but definitely noticeable. It was still within a bubble however.

To get the drain nose down, I would have to be at a REALLY notable tilt in that direction to offset the slant to the rear in the drain pipe.
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Old 09-30-2007, 08:35 PM   #26
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[b]Burp the baby.
You have air trapped in the tank.

I added a vent to the top of my tank across to the bathroom sink air vent. Worked great.
Hey Mike, Can you explain to me how you did that. I have a 17 ft Boler. The black tank is on the cabin side of the floor, under the tiolet and dinette seat. The grey tank is underneath the front of the trailer. I have a vent on the oposite side for the sink and a vent on the bathroom side up from the black tank. Hey You just may have solved my problem, there doesn't seem to be a vent on the grey tank. I will check this out tomorrow and let you know. Yours in Bolering. Jim
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Old 10-05-2007, 02:37 PM   #27
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Gina, you done good on that drawing,
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Old 10-05-2007, 02:51 PM   #28
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I did manage to stick my head in there this weekend and see exactly what he was talking about. Yep.. that'll do it! It does cant to the left, and there is actually two elbows there (One horizontal from the line that sink is directly attached to) and one vertical from a short run after that bend that the vent is connected to. Should be easy enough to fix.

I am going to try a different route tho. Cutting the sink drain and lifting the whole assembly up, supporting with a block at teach elbow. Then refitting the sink drain pipe. It seems easier to get to that one.
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