Trillium City Water Inlet Woes - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-20-2008, 11:07 PM   #15
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Dang, that's exactly what I described above that I'd try to build and some dude already beat me to it and is selling em at RV shops....

Hope it works out for ya David.
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Old 05-23-2008, 03:05 PM   #16
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That is the exact one I installed last summer...I am curious to know if it leaks like mine.
Yup, with a little water in it, it leaks. With an attempt to tighten, it snapped apart. Made a mess in the basement where I had "test assembled" it. (even had the pressure regulator upstream of this thing so it was not "over pressured". I'm going back to the RV parts folks to see if they'll replace it.

I guess, I'll use the city water with the supply tap turned way down and accept that the connection will drip a bit (at least it's an outside drip and I can catch it in a bucket or something).

Greg, maybe you can build something better than can be bought pre-assembled. I will try, if the next one does the same thing. How hard can it be? <---hopefully not "famous last words"

Dave
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Old 05-23-2008, 03:10 PM   #17
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If I was to build something I'd try making one with one of those quick connect fittings ("Gardena" type, but metal).
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Old 05-25-2008, 05:02 PM   #18
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…an update:

Upon disassembly of the brass components to remove them from the plastic housing, I think I discovered the source of the small external leak…to little teflon tape sealing. With my recent fussing with the various joints required to plumb this into the trailer, I discovered that it takes a fair bit (4 to 6 turns) of the tape to provide a watertight seal on these brass 1/2" FIP joints.

This makes me suspect the leak various folks other have reported seeing is likely not caused by insufficient tightening of the hose end, or a bad washer there (though a missing washer would certainly cause a leak), but by a leaking brass-brass MIP-FIP connection.

See the picture – this little tape on the joints I was "pre-assembling" to test definitely leaked.

I am still working in my final solution (I like the idea of a quick coupler...). I will post again when I've got something.

Dave
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Old 05-25-2008, 08:52 PM   #19
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Here's the city water and grey water on our Boler. They are both metal flanged and I just replaced the screw covers so I would imagine the fitting is still available somewheres.
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Old 05-25-2008, 09:08 PM   #20
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Attachment 13429

Here's the city water and grey water on our Boler. They are both metal flanged and I just replaced the screw covers so I would imagine the fitting is still available somewheres.
This is likely the option I will turn to if I can't sort out the "with cover" version that the Trillium has.

rant mode---> What's really got me @#$$^% off is the fact that manufacturers are selling us these options which are so obviously under-engineered or shoddily made. I pay good money and get essentially nonfunctional items - I don't want my money back, I want a product that will do what it's supposed to, and continue to do so for a reasonable period of time. <---rant off
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:37 PM   #21
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... and to that I will add my rant =)

*rant on*

I know totally what you mean David. It really irks me that we are working on these 30+ year old trailers that were so well built and everything that I am finding to replace them is shoddy imported parts.

I have the same issue with all the cheap tools that are being sold. I have made the mistake of buying a cheap cordless drill and some sawzall blades to do a reno on the house and was I ever sorry - it still pays to buy good tools and I quickly replaced the drill with a XRP Dewalt and some bosch blades for my Makita sawzall.

I think the problem is that retailers and manufactuers know they don't make big profits off long lasting products and so what we now have is a massive amount of cheap products with zero reliability or repairabilty. I would rather pay double for a dishwasher that lasts 20 years then our piece of crap that lasted 5

*rant off*
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Old 05-25-2008, 10:45 PM   #22
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This is likely the option I will turn to if I can't sort out the "with cover" version that the Trillium has.
Here's another idea... You could replace it with a cable hatch. Then slap a quick-connect coupling onto the end of the inside hose and pull it through the hatch, making the hose a bit longer if needed.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:52 PM   #23
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Dave,

That hatch when you removed the fittings looks like a perfect fit for a hose. Could you not design a length of potable hose with the connection to the inside fitting and then the female adapter on the outside end. Leave about 6" or so of extra hose length. The hatch would close with the hose pushed back into the trailer and when you hook up you grab the female connector and pull the extra hose outside and make your city water connection. Sort of along the idea of how they do the power cord in the Scamp.
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Old 05-26-2008, 10:38 AM   #24
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Dave,

That hatch when you removed the fittings looks like a perfect fit for a hose. Could you not design a length of potable hose with the connection to the inside fitting and then the female adapter on the outside end. Leave about 6" or so of extra hose length. The hatch would close with the hose pushed back into the trailer and when you hook up you grab the female connector and pull the extra hose outside and make your city water connection. Sort of along the idea of how they do the power cord in the Scamp.
Greg, great minds think alike! After investigating the various brass (and plastic) plumbing bits on offer at the local building centres, large and small, and perusing a variety of web sites, I came to the same conclusion you did - a short hose.

All the various combinations I could come up with were too big to fit beneath the hatch cover - only a single hose connector would fit easily. Logical conclusion from that is to use a short host and put the connection to the actual "interior" plumbing inside the trailer. (once I've checked all the connections for leaks!)
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:03 AM   #25
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Interesting reading about your issues with your water filler. I have just finnished replacing all of my exterior fittings on my 76 Trillium as well. I wish I would've seen this thread and checked out your RV supplier first. Outback Trillium sent me the same thing manufactured by Zebra RV with out the check valve for use as a sink drain outlet, for around 27 dollars. Not Happy!! This brass filler unit u have looks much better, would be curious to see if they have a proper sink drain outlet as well. Replaced my water tank and all water lines with fittings supplied from them and actually am now convinced there is nobody that knows much about plumbing working in there parts department!!!
Best of luck with your project.
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Old 08-25-2017, 09:17 PM   #26
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My wife and I recently acquired a 1975 Trillium 1300. Everything is in working order with only a couple of small leaks from the windows (1/4 cup in two days of heavy rain between all 4 windows). One part that is broken and cannot simply be fixed is the city water entry. I cannot find anywhere that lists the part 664-##/664## other than a catalog and the local RV dealers/shops cannot find the part either. I've tried several places around the web and get no where. Go-West.com does not work anymore (looks like the site has been down since 2014?). I've tried ordering parts from amazon but the flange just covers the hole and the screws have nothing to sink into. Does anyone know where I can get the part? US or Canada is fine.
Thanks
-Chase
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Old 08-26-2017, 03:18 AM   #27
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Forget about all those made to a low cost RV items that give you grief and go with something that will last a lot of years from the marine trades. Same function, similar looking but "solid stainless steel" instead of plastic"

Do a keyword search for this item "Sea Dog Fresh Water Inlet Stainless Steel" Yes you will have to screw a pressure reducer to the inside but that is a very easy task to do rather than something to be scared of. Having one that is not built into the inlet is good because if the pressure valve goes bad you don't have to replace the whole thing.

Also forget about using teflon tape, it is not nearly as good at sealing the connections as TFE paste, also known as "pipe thread compound". You can purchase it in a small tube or in stick form at any hardware store. We prefer the stick form of it which is very easy to apply. You just rub it across the male threads to fill the grooves up a little then screw the pieces together.
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Old 08-26-2017, 09:36 PM   #28
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Thanks K_Corbin,
The Sea Dog Fresh Water Inlet Stainless Steel is not going to work. The flange will cover the hole from the covered housing, but the screws/rivets won't grab anything. I've looked at similar parts, even ordered one and tried to test fit it but it was a no go.
Thanks for the help though.
-Chase
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