Water heater by-pass - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-20-2003, 08:23 AM   #15
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Another question

Does this bother anyone but me:

They had the water lines secured together (with romex in and out of it every so often), so I did it the same way (with the romex seperated from it in its own casing). I really do not like having the hot and cold lines together like that. Is it just me, or would one of those cheap insullation foam tube things be good wrapped around the hot water line before it was secured together?

Cheap and easy, but is it necessary?
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:15 AM   #16
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Suz:
Without seeing the front of your heater, there might be a solution that is simpler for allowing air into just the Hot Water tank. Flip the lever on your high pressure popoff while the drain is open. That should allow air to enter the popoff and drain water from the drain on the bottom.
On my TT the popoff valve is near the top on the front, easy access and should be tested every now and then anyway, or it can freeze up and fail to work.
As for the insulation, in the short runs we have in TT plumbing , I am not sure it helps a lot, on the other hand I did put that pipe insulation on mine every where I could get to easily.
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Old 05-20-2003, 09:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Suz

* * * * * * Does this bother anyone but me:

They had the water lines secured together (with *romex in and out of it every so often), so I did it the same way (with the romex seperated from it in its own casing). *I really do not like having the hot and cold lines together like that. *Is it just me, or would one of those cheap insullation foam tube things be good wrapped around the hot water line before it was secured together?

Cheap and easy, but is it necessary?
If those lines were metal it might make some difference, it's such a short run I don't see what gain there would be. Unless you would feel better about it if you do it.
I can't hurt at any rate. What the heck, go for it Suz...
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Old 05-20-2003, 10:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Charlie Crouchet

* * * * * * Suz:
*On my TT the popoff valve is near the top on the front, easy access and should be tested every now and then anyway, or it can freeze up and fail to work
Mine is in the same place and I thought about it, Charlie, but when I read the instructions that came with the water heater (yep, I have the originals), it's method of draining and explaination of the relief valve was such that I decided not to open it. I'm trying to learn to be more respectful of all the unknown elements of trailer repair, so if I can't reasonably project the outcome, I've learned to hold back a bit. Your right, though, it could have the needed effect.

To insulate or not: Good point, Pete, about the metal/plastic. Hum. There are places that I cannot get to without disassembling part of the trailer, but I may do it in the places where I can. If I recall, I think the lines are a little more seperated in those areas than they are in the areas around the water heater, so it might be of some benefit. Think I might do it.
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Old 05-24-2003, 09:00 AM   #19
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Update

Thanks, Charlie. You were right about the pressure relief valve. Worked like a champ. Man, six gallons is a lot of water! ;)

Now, if someone can just help me figure out how to 'unfreeze' this never-before-changed 14 year old anode rode. :o 18 hrs and still soaking with penetrating oil. <img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ecf7ac755d60smiliehair.gif/> Maybe today.
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Old 05-24-2003, 09:15 AM   #20
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Remove Anode

If you don't have one, go to Wal-Mart and buy their 12vdc impact tool. You will need a 1 1/16 inch socket for it. I don't think it comes with the tool. The tool is good for removing wheel lug nuts too.

Good Luck
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Old 05-24-2003, 09:20 AM   #21
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12V impact wrench

Thanks, Ron. I just read about that tool on the other thread and wondered if it would work. I think I really, really want one of those. Maybe I can get over to Harbor Freight or Wal-Mart today.

I'll let you know how it comes out!

Oh, thanks for the socket size!
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Old 05-24-2003, 09:26 AM   #22
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:thumb A big ditto! from my corner, too, Ron!

I have the same problem as Suz (pulling the anode rod), but am just a couple of steps behind her.


:spin
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Old 05-24-2003, 12:39 PM   #23
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Suz: Try some PB Blaster, WD-40 is a waste of time and Liquid Wrench is almost the same. Kroil is suspose to work good but I have never tried it.

If you can heat up the annode some then hit it with oil it will work the best, the heat draws in the oil.

PB Blaster is available at Wal-Mart now or some auto part places. Kriol is a little more hard to find, mostly machine shop supply places.

HTH
Rich
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Old 05-24-2003, 01:47 PM   #24
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anode tool

Using the 4 way wrench most Casita owners have......
<img src=http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/uploads/3ecfbd02280f4Anode tool.gif/>

Need a bolt whose head fits the tire tool, and grind it to fit a 1/2'' drive socket.

Provides firm, consistant force to the anode rod.

(I tried one of the el cheapo impact wrenches and couldn't return it quick enough.)
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Old 05-24-2003, 10:07 PM   #25
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Anode

I'm here to tell you, I am not one to give up easily. Anyone that knows me knows that I'm about as tenacious as they come. But this whats-it has just about got me beat. Yes, we used some liquid wrench, but we also had some other stuff that we've used for years. After 30 hours or more there isn't a speck of rust anywhere on the visible portion of the anode. My husband has just about every tool possible and the strength to use it, but neither one of us could budge it one iota. Neither cheater bars nor impact wrenches have even begun to touch it. He wanted to heat it (as Rich suggested) but there is a warning on the box around the water heater that says not to apply any kind of heat in that area.

I got me a mighty fine bypass if it starts to leak. Come next spring I'm gonna get me a LP/Electric. Yessireee, that's what I'm gonna do.

NOTE: Okay, I admit it, I'll probably get some of that other stuff and try it...but then that's it!
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Old 05-24-2003, 10:52 PM   #26
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Suz, you might also try the following site for some ideas, most of which
have been expressed here:
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseact.../TID/792197.cfm
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseact.../Yes/page/2.cfm
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseact.../Yes/page/3.cfm
http://www.rv.net/forums/index.cfm/fuseact.../Yes/page/2.cfm
You could be in trouble though, the last url notes:
"Takes a real man to remove and re-install that puppy";)
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Old 05-25-2003, 07:48 AM   #27
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Quote:
Orginally posted by Rock MacRae
* * * * * * *
"Takes a real man to remove and re-install that puppy";)
''Hey, I'm more than a man...I'm a WO - man! ;)

No kidding, I really can usually handle stuff like this. Leverage, leverage, leverage. This time, neither strength nor leverage would work. My husband finally asked if he could help. I finally relented and even he couldn't do it. He was afraid he was going to shear off the head of the anode rod. Welp, good thing he has plenty of tools, because he did bend his rachet handle.

All kidding aside, thanks for the links, I'll check them out.
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Old 05-25-2003, 08:19 PM   #28
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Remove Anode

Suz,

I suggest that you hook on to the trailer and pull it down to the local tire shop. Ask them to undo it with their impact wrench. It will take them about a minute.

Good Luck
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